The old head stock bearing dilemma.

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This topic contains 23 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  TONY. 13 years, 9 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • #100061

    Just removed my KTM head stock for the first time in almost 15000kms. :blink:
    It was feeling a bit notchy so best I have a look. ;)
    Top bearing was fine as suspected. B)
    Bottom bearing not so good. :(
    The trick is to remove the bottom bearing without destroying the silly rubber seal.
    Will be taking the stem to work tomorrow.
    Intend on grinding the bearing cage off so as to either put a puller and hydraulic ram under the top lip of the bearing case.
    Or machine a ring that fits over the smaller diameter that has a fatter lip, welded to the inner race to grab with a puller.
    Or weld stud bar straight to the inner race and just use a small strong back and hydraulic jack to remove.
    I am likely to go with the latest method as it seems easiest. ;)
    May have to make up something to stop the heat from welding from destroying the rubber seal below. :ohmy:
    Let ya know how I got on. B)
    Any advice would be nice.
    Cheers
    Murph

    #203487

    Mick D
    Member

    What we need is someone that can design a bottom bearing remover. Something in the style of an over sized ball joint fork would work.

    AS for removing it with out buggering the seal, try heating the inner part of the bearing ring with a heat gun.

    #203493

    Cheers Mick
    A tuning fork type tool may have to be designed.
    Damn bike shops probably already have one.
    I am willing to engineer and build one though.
    On saying that, it is way easier for me to take the friggin thing into work and just sort ot myself.
    If I build a tuning fork, (so to speek) will they come. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
    Cheers
    Murph (one of three) :ohmy: :laugh: :laugh:

    #203494

    I knocked one off my young blokes KTM85 just the other day. I cut the outer cage off, held the bottom triple clamp in a vice with aluminiun jaws. Soaked the bearing with Inox and let it penetrate for an hour or so then knocked it of with a punch. I might have been lucky but it did the trick. If that didn’t work i usually weld the inner race and use a bearing puller in a press.

    Cheers,

    Lefty

    #203496

    Mick D
    Member

    To be honest, being a Plant Mechanic by trade I use a cold chisel under the bearing and once I get it to move once it is easy to knock off. Bearing (no pun intended) in mind I heat the inner race with a heat gun. Works for me but would be seen by the purists as a bit rough, I have done plenty this way though.

    #203497

    Cheers Lefty
    I think we are on the same wave length. :dry:
    Simplier the better. :woohoo:
    Shall try that first before it becomes a little complex. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
    Thanks heaps man
    I do like this tech part of Old Bulls.
    At least someone has something to offer. :)
    Cheers
    Murph

    #203498

    Thats the way Mick. Tuy just need to make sure the inner doesn’t shatter and take your eye out. :ohmy: Cause thats not fun. Wear safety glasses.

    #203501

    Adam Rodgers
    Member
    Lefty wrote:
    Thats the way Mick. Tuy just need to make sure the inner doesn’t shatter and take your eye out. :ohmy: Cause thats not fun. Wear safety glasses.

    Lefty’s right ;) Confusing I know :laugh:

    You should wear safety glasses when hitting any metal object, I had a splinter of steel off the head of a nail hit my eye years ago and had a trip to hospital to have it removed :(

    Not a pleasant experience :sick:

    Adam.

    #203504

    Greg
    Member

    If you plug one end of the tube remove the gage and rollers. Heat the bearing cone with a heat gun, fill the tube with ice water quickly, top off the heat on the bearing cone and one tap and it almost falls off, nothing damaged

    TB

    #203502

    g,day murph.i also put a weld on the inner race of the bearing. this will expand the race threw heat,and should knock off the headstem.this way could save your seal from to much heat.have a bucket of water and rag handy if need be.DY4.

    #203505

    Aha Safety first
    As if work would let us do it any other way. :ohmy:
    Cheers
    Murph

    #203506

    Cheers TB
    Unfortunately KTM have put a rubber seal below the inner race of the bearing. ;)
    This could either keep water out or keep it in. Once the water gets in like most of our rides than thats where it stays. :blink:
    Will let ya’s know which way I went with tomorrow. :silly: :blush: :whistle: ;)
    Cheers
    Murph

    #203507

    Cheers dupsyam4
    Sounds like you are of the fitter/machinist type dudes amoungst us??
    Cheers everyone
    I’ve been told by the bride to move on.
    Our puter is in our bedroom so I think I have to go back out to the lounge room (full stereo)
    Shit happens I guess. :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
    Will let ya’s know how things panned out. :)
    Cheers
    Murph

    #203508

    Greg
    Member
    Murph the surf wrote:
    Cheers TB
    Unfortunately KTM have put a rubber seal below the inner race of the bearing. ;)
    This could either keep water out or keep it in.
    Cheers
    Murph

    I think they have all the seal under the bearing all bikes I have done have anyway.
    The cooling of the tube and heating of the bearing cone allows it to fall of without damaging the seal :) Use a heat gun

    TB

    #203488

    I have a ten ton press in the shed that works really well, and its available to any OB that wants to use it.

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