Suggestions Please. Broken bolt. – OLD Bull Trailriders

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June 29, 2011 at 11:56 pm #100125

Mick D
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I have the swing arm out of my bike to replace the main swing arm bearings. Whilst it is out I decided it would be a good idea to pull out the axle locator bolts and clean them up. First one came out easy as, but the other was tight as buggery. In the process I managed to snap it off, any good idea on how to get the rest of the bolt out?? I have tried two lock nuts but it is too tight and they just spin on the bolt. A lesson in servicing your swing arm more often.
Here is a pic.

June 30, 2011 at 12:11 am #204163

Nick Jackson
Member

Would heat work Mick ?

June 30, 2011 at 12:13 am #204164

Bruce Curtis
Member

Mick I reckon the other (unseen end) will be all corroded and it will be an uphill battle, so while it is that far out, sorta cut a little slot in it with the dremel then using the back to back nuts wind it into the swingarm, and take them off and wind it all the way in into the swingarm itself, should be somewhere you can them wiggle it out, or just leave it in there……

BeeCee

June 30, 2011 at 12:14 am #204173

Mick D
Member

Nickj wrote:

Would heat work Mick ?

Tried heating it with a heat gun prior to it snapping.

June 30, 2011 at 12:15 am #204165

Dwayne O
Member

Or maybe the freeze spray instead of Heat ????? Shrinks the metal instead of expanding

Good Luck Micko, Looks like a bugger of a job there :S

June 30, 2011 at 12:15 am #204175

Greg
Member

micknmeld wrote:

A lesson in servicing your swing arm more often.

Maybe double nut and weld the nut and try winding it in first to free it, then work it back and forth and bring it out slowly. Keep it soaking in something although I dont think it will help until you wind it in so the jizz can get really through.
It is one of the things mentioned that troubles XRs the steel bolts it the alloy swingarm. Steel and alloy ummmm :blink: Steel peg bolts in alloy frame etc

Bruce’s idea has merit as well

TB

June 30, 2011 at 12:16 am #204174

Mick D
Member

Mr Blue wrote:

Mick I reckon the other (unseen end) will be all corroded and it will be an uphill battle, so while it is that far out, sorta cut a little slot in it with the dremel then using the back to back nuts wind it into the swingarm, and take them off and wind it all the way in into the swingarm itself, should be somewhere you can them wiggle it out, or just leave it in there……

BeeCee

Actually thought about that Bruce, but the sucker is so tight now it wont go either way. If I could get it to move that will definately be an option.

June 30, 2011 at 12:20 am #204166

Dwayne O
Member

That`s why I like to use Tefgel or Autolac on bolts & screws where I can. Galvanic Corrosion is a bastard :unsure:
Dissimilar metals don`t mix , add moisture & away it goes. Even Loctite will assist in this regard as it puts a barrier between the two metals similar to the Tefgel

June 30, 2011 at 12:38 am #204167

Bob Dowsett
Member

2 nuts 2 spanners heat and panther piss

June 30, 2011 at 12:45 am #204168

Bob Dowsett
Member

after u try that 2 nuts 2 spanners drill it out and put a hard out in it after u put the nuts on and then use heat and more panther piss
and before u heat it up belt shit out of it with a hammer the side of the swingarm that is whilst trying to turn it , it might help free it up fracture where its frozen
u’ll have 2 grow another set of hands for that one

June 30, 2011 at 1:04 am #204169

John
Member

Soak in WD40 overnight then give it a few good belts with a hammer and then use the biggest easyout that will fit.

June 30, 2011 at 2:02 am #204170

Ian Kersley
Member

soak it in cats piss [penertrating oil ] two nuts and tap the bolt with a hammer on the end soak some more this may take some time to get some movement don’t try to move it to far to soon work it back and forth and try not to let it lock up again you will get it out just don’t rush it.

bones

June 30, 2011 at 4:09 am #204171

Vincent
Member

Hi Mick, Harley Vinnie here

Use 2 nuts screwed up tight back to back allowing 4 ml of the stud to protrude. Tack weld the locked nuts to the 4 ml protrusion. Heat the stud and nuts only, to as red hot as you can with an oxy being careful not to melt the alloy swing arm , cool the alloy swing arm with single squirt of water pistol or running hose while you heat the stud cherry red if possible.

Allow the stud to cool, then heat the alloy swing arm only with oxy as hot as you can keping stud cool with squirt of water or freeze spray and slowly try to turn stud while keeping it cool.

You need 4 hands, It would pay to try heating the swing arm around the stud first and freezing the stud with the locked nuts and turn while heating one and freezing the other. heating the stud first may cause it to become soft and break.

Good luck old Mate !! by now you may even have it out knowing your persistence.

Great write up on Yum Cha lunch by the way , You are a genius with words very well written, Thanks

Too Hot
Cheers Vinnie

June 30, 2011 at 11:23 am #204186

Mick D
Member

I am gunna give the weld a nut on, technique a go this arvo. Should be plenty of extra hands in the shed this arvo to give me a hand.

June 30, 2011 at 11:41 am #204187

Greg
Member

You need to heat the swingarm getting the alloy to expand (grow) and keep the stud cool (srink like your dick on a cold morning) when using the welded nut theory. Dont worry to much about damaging the thread in the swing arm a heli-coil will fix that and stop it ever happening again.

Having seen this I am removing both of my soon and drilling the threads out and fitting heli-coils as they are stronger than a thread straight into alloy and then my bolt will be a metal bolt in a metal thread no more dramas

TB
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