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As some will remember, though others may not due to a haze of alcohol induced memory loss, at the Coffs ride a couple of KTM’s had electrical problems :ohmy: :blush: :whistle:
Lefty and Sam on separate days had the stop switch and in lefty’s case also the little kill switch cause starting problems
In both cases the short term fix (if stuck on the trail) is to disconnect the plugs behind the headlight that go back to the CDI unit (on Sam’s 250 there black with yellow tracer)
Murph the Surf probably has the best preventative solution which is to spray the switches with contact cleaner every other ride, and as the Stop switch is not sealed this is an easy to do job.
If you already have the problem the solution is to pull the switch apart clean it and put it back together which is also quite easy
The photos show the switch thats inside the mount and then apart
[attachment=3027]KTMSwitch1.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=3028]KTMSwitch2.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=3029]KTMSwitch3.jpg[/attachment]
You can see the dirt that was causing a 170 ohm lowish resistance when it should be in the mega ohm range. The resistance would probably have been lower when wet on the trail causing the weak spark and starting problem.
When cleaned the meter read as open circuit so all was good to go back into Sam’s bike for the ultimate test, starting :whistle:
All was good and no problems since
Will follow Murph’s cleaning procedure from now on Adam.
Yep, Contact cleaner after just about every ride for me too
I have had provs once after a fairly heavy drop on the right hand side (same one that damaged my radiator actually) :whistle:
Dirt was forced up into the switch & she would not even give a hint of starting after that :blink: Once home I puled it apart, bit of a spray & all good since Good advice for ant switches on bikes actually regardless of make :silly:
Lefty wrote:Yes gents,
I had a problem with both my switches on the Coffs ride. I was able to clean and repair the momentary contact switch on the left and it now works fine. However the main RHS switch still reads around the 170ohm mark even when completely stripped and cleaned. :huh: I think she might be farked. :blink:I had to give between the contacts a good rub / scratch with a small screwdriver to break the track that had been created :huh: before the low resistance was broken, I had the meter connected to the plug wires whilst I cleaned so I could see when it was good
Adam.
snowy09 wrote:I thought one of the reasons for getting rid of the drz was cause of shitty electricals. But I notice you seem to have taken the disease with you. Thanks again for the advice on the suspension settings I have played with all the adjusters and am very happy with the bikes handling. I just need to adjust the rider and it will be sweet.The DRZ electrics never let me down as I did all the recommended ‘fixes’ when I got it. The kato’s electrics haven’t let me down either (near new it shouldn’t either), Sam seems to attract the electrical problems as it was his kato with the problem and his CRF250X let us down in the bush once too. :pinch: :whistle:
I’m learning all the kato ‘fixes’ as I go :whistle:
I was hoping Murph was going to be the guinea pig and do all the fault finding for the new injected kato’s not me
:laugh:As for your suspension its worth the time and effort, every bike has its subtlies, and so does every rider :laugh:
Adam.
adam wrote:Lefty wrote:Yes gents,
I had a problem with both my switches on the Coffs ride. I was able to clean and repair the momentary contact switch on the left and it now works fine. However the main RHS switch still reads around the 170ohm mark even when completely stripped and cleaned. :huh: I think she might be farked. :blink:I had to give between the contacts a good rub / scratch with a small screwdriver to break the track that had been created :huh: before the low resistance was broken, I had the meter connected to the plug wires whilst I cleaned so I could see when it was good
Adam.
Thanks Adam
I will give that a go
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