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This topic contains 16 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Greg 12 years, 9 months ago.

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  • June 6, 2012 at 8:31 pm #101500

    Roy
    Member

    I’ve got to replace a leaking clutch cover gasket so I thought I’d get some advice on what else to check whilst it’s all apart. Bikes done 200+ hours 6000+ km’s, original clutch.

    Clutch is currently working ok.

    Do I just check for notches in the basket, measure plate thickness, change the whole lot.

    How do I check the push rod.

    What do you reckon.

    It’s not just the small side cover that is coming off, the gasket that is leaking is the next one in (big one) so the side is coming off.

    Thanks

    June 6, 2012 at 11:03 pm #223566

    Mick D
    Member

    Roy, if it were me ( yes that is lazy old me, TB), I would knock up a new gasket out of gasket paper and bolt the sucker back up again. If the clutch is still going good, why worry? And gaskets are cheap and easy to make.

    June 6, 2012 at 11:05 pm #223596

    alan
    Member

    reckon your clutch should last heaps longer i am with mic

    June 6, 2012 at 11:14 pm #223599

    Greg
    Member

    I would buy a gasket Roy, making one would not only be tricky given its shape and size it would increase the chances of a leak. If it does leak it makes the cheap arse repair take twice as long
    I am all for short cuts but not being cheap, its ok when you ride around your own back yard (area) but if you travel for a ride or have a red hot go well it isnt cheap in the long run IMO

    As for the clutch, well a clutch is so easy to do and quick (like 20mins) I wouldnt bother at this stage run it for a bit longer

    TB

    June 6, 2012 at 11:50 pm #223602

    Mick D
    Member

    The NX has a home made gasket on the stator side and Trippers XR has one on the clutch side, neither have a leak of any sort.
    The NX made it all the way on the Scrapheap ride too. I am very confident with making gaskets though.

    As Far as Bundy’s problem is concerned, if he doesn’t have the means or know how, to make a new gasket. By all means buy one, but I wouldn’t worry about stuffing around with a clutch that is working fine.

    June 7, 2012 at 12:06 am #223567

    Alex
    Member

    Im no clutch guru roy but 200 hrs is no biggie. Leave it alone and buy the gasket. It should be around $20.

    June 7, 2012 at 11:27 am #223568

    Roy
    Member

    Thanks for all the replies. Hadn’t thought of making my own. Now I’ve thought of it I think I will still go and buy a pre made one anyway.

    June 7, 2012 at 5:15 pm #223569

    Leo.C
    Member

    Kinda along the same lines, I recently replaced my clutch cable and after a short test ride when on a big ride, 250 odd k’s I believe. Part way in, after a good warm up the clutch was slipping quite a bit. I was told i’d need a clutch kit but, after some timely advice from my old man I took some of the tension off the cable at the clutch end and took it for another test ride and it’s completely slip free…. Would I have done too much damage during the ride to ignore the need for a new kit though ?

    B.W.

    June 7, 2012 at 11:24 pm #223644

    Dean
    Member
    Bulls Wool wrote:
    Kinda along the same lines, I recently replaced my clutch cable and after a short test ride when on a big ride, 250 odd k’s I believe. Part way in, after a good warm up the clutch was slipping quite a bit. I was told i’d need a clutch kit but, after some timely advice from my old man I took some of the tension off the cable at the clutch end and took it for another test ride and it’s completely slip free…. Would I have done too much damage during the ride to ignore the need for a new kit though ?

    B.W.

    Hey B.W what is the condition of your oil ? if its full of metal shill maybe you will. Best bet would be to pull the clutch out and check for fibre thickness, and steel plate bluing (overheating). With a cable clutch you should have 1.5 mm of freeplay at the lever.
    hope this helps
    Ollie

    June 9, 2012 at 1:40 pm #223654

    Leo.C
    Member

    Cheers Ollie, have just dropped the oil out and replaced the frame and engine plugs with the magnetic jobbies from Rock, will have a look at the oil and cross my fingers :P

    B.W.

    June 9, 2012 at 5:11 pm #223570

    Roy
    Member

    I’ve now got the cover off and the faces all clean. All looks good in there to the naked untrained eye. Now to put the new gasket on.

    A) Do you use gasket goo or put it on dry?
    B) Is the best procedure to put the gasket on the bike and then slide the side cover towards it or put the gasket on the side cover first then mount the whole lot.

    Thanks.

    June 9, 2012 at 7:59 pm #223745

    Greg
    Member
    Bundyroy wrote:
    I’ve now got the cover off and the faces all clean. All looks good in there to the naked untrained eye. Now to put the new gasket on.

    A) Do you use gasket goo or put it on dry?
    B) Is the best procedure to put the gasket on the bike and then slide the side cover towards it or put the gasket on the side cover first then mount the whole lot.

    Thanks.

    Get some

    1398611d.jpg

    From Repco or the likes, spray both sides and let it go semi dry. Fit the gasket to the engine case and put the cover on.

    Some gaskets work dry, this stuff works great and is easy to apply being a spray. Dry I have seen to many bike engines rebuilt that weep and it looks shoty IMO

    TB

    June 9, 2012 at 9:33 pm #223747

    Chris
    Member

    tech support all the way from QLD, :-), I have used hylomar several times awesome stuff,

    Cheers
    Chris.

    June 18, 2012 at 6:33 pm #223655

    Leo.C
    Member
    Ollie wrote:
    Bulls Wool wrote:
    Kinda along the same lines, I recently replaced my clutch cable and after a short test ride when on a big ride, 250 odd k’s I believe. Part way in, after a good warm up the clutch was slipping quite a bit. I was told i’d need a clutch kit but, after some timely advice from my old man I took some of the tension off the cable at the clutch end and took it for another test ride and it’s completely slip free…. Would I have done too much damage during the ride to ignore the need for a new kit though ?

    B.W.

    Hey B.W what is the condition of your oil ? if its full of metal shill maybe you will. Best bet would be to pull the clutch out and check for fibre thickness, and steel plate bluing (overheating). With a cable clutch you should have 1.5 mm of freeplay at the lever.
    hope this helps
    Ollie

    Yep checked the oil with a sieve found one 1 bit of steel about the 1/3 size of a match head n no alloy from what I could see., Thanks Ollie.
    Clutch: friction plates thickness all at the top of the service limit as per the book, clutch plates also as per the book and springs too.
    Got the hylomar ready but there are no Torque specs for the pressure plate spring bolts (5 of). Any one recommend torque setting or where too find em… not real keen to do my own “trail mod” is all :P Sorry Moto :blush:
    Cheers B.W.

    June 18, 2012 at 10:28 pm #224525

    Dean
    Member
    Bulls Wool wrote:
    Ollie wrote:
    Bulls Wool wrote:
    Kinda along the same lines, I recently replaced my clutch cable and after a short test ride when on a big ride, 250 odd k’s I believe. Part way in, after a good warm up the clutch was slipping quite a bit. I was told i’d need a clutch kit but, after some timely advice from my old man I took some of the tension off the cable at the clutch end and took it for another test ride and it’s completely slip free…. Would I have done too much damage during the ride to ignore the need for a new kit though ?

    B.W.

    Hey B.W what is the condition of your oil ? if its full of metal shill maybe you will. Best bet would be to pull the clutch out and check for fibre thickness, and steel plate bluing (overheating). With a cable clutch you should have 1.5 mm of freeplay at the lever.
    hope this helps
    Ollie

    Yep checked the oil with a sieve found one 1 bit of steel about the 1/3 size of a match head n no alloy from what I could see., Thanks Ollie.
    Clutch: friction plates thickness all at the top of the service limit as per the book, clutch plates also as per the book and springs too.
    Got the hylomar ready but there are no Torque specs for the pressure plate spring bolts (5 of). Any one recommend torque setting or where too find em… not real keen to do my own “trail mod” is all :P Sorry Moto :blush:
    Cheers B.W.

    What make and model bike do have B.W? (might be handy to know :laugh: )

    Ollie

    Just read some of your posts and I reckon you’ve got an XR400
    so try this link
    http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/xr-technical-specs/36103-honda-xr400r-technical-specifications.html

    Ollie

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