This topic contains 20 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Nick Dole 12 years, 4 months ago.
-
AuthorPosts
-
September 12, 2012 at 1:38 am #101841
All HANDY hints tips and tricks of relevant trades are welcome as I know the the difference between torque and talk but all the rest is a learning curve albeit a rather F%@#ing steep one
Save the banter and the “you should just buy a KTM” for laterHeaded out for a little Recce map check ride about 5 weeks ago now, armed with a Garmin 405 GPS watch my boss loaned to me (on the conditions you break it you buy it). There I was chugging down a section of tar about 15 km from home when a dreadful bogging down sound came from the engine… kinda like when you run out of juice but I knew (as I had just filled her up) it’d be worse. So, there we both sat, me and the Junior Red Pig on the side of chain’o’ponds Rd looking over for oil leaks = clean, checking the carb for flow = good, checked the dipstick = plenty (maybe too high) :blush: and a HUGE “ohhhh shit!” feeling sinks in :blush: :blink:
So after a few calls a local bike mechanic came to the much appreciated rescue, and of course being a Suzuki man, got the bike loaded and locked on the trailer and produced a camera and the mother of all grins.
at home I drop the oil, plenty out of the tank, good sign. Sump next, about 100-150 ml here both plugs magnetic tips covered in filings. As the oil came running out it looked like black metallic paint, looked cool, except it was coming from an engine :sick:
Start tearing her down and, as I thought and my mechanic was saying it would be, she was a mess.
Took off the barrel which didn’t want to come at first and looked at what was left of the piston (half of the skirt on the intake side was chewed off)
Pin was locked in there goodlyYou get the picture :unsure:
So a long and drawn out process began with my boss, Pete, at the video shop saying “piece of piss you’ve got a service book i’ve got google”… too easy!
I began to trawl the web for rebuild words of advice and haunted thumpertalk for about 18hr a day for a week straight!
got a good deal of info from the sepo’s seems those fellas pull their bikes down in winter just for the fun of it :blink:
So getting back into JRP, pulling clutch off etc etc. One thing i will say is the alloy gets EVERYWHERE!!!! couldn’t believe it at first.
First job find someone to bore out the barrel, got 3 recommendations for Probore in Port Macquarie. Lindsay (who reminds my boss of a younger ‘Burt’ from “The Worlds Fastest Indian”) told me I’d need an 86mm Piston, which I ordered from Wiseco, and he made it happen. Thanks to Lindsay from Probore for all the work and wisdom.
Kind of a shame to have to hide this in the middle of an engine… until its going then I wont give 2 shits anymorebut its a sexy lookin bit of kit.
After that the clutch centre came out, I looked around, found a massive chunk of the pitson skirt in behind the oil pump. Was removing all the parts and pieces to get at the inner clutch cover and went for the idler gear which pushes onto a bush on the back side of the countershaft it felt spongey like it was sitting on a rubber mount or something :blink: and when i removed it the whole piece came out = gear, bush and spindle…. WHAT??? SPINDLE??? :huh:
back to the service book to check what i should have. Gear, check, bush, check…. no spindle, oh dear! :pinch: Turns out it was the tail of the counter shaft and had clean snapped off and was just sitting in its housing against the bearing.I rang wreckers, collectors, mates of blokes you name it no help, then I rang Rock
happy days. Yep, we’ve got that it’ll be here lunch time tomorrow. Not much change from $175 but kinda important bit to have.
I also then found the tooth (that was “definitely not in there anymore”) from the last idle gear that was replace by a mechanic after i first got the bike and send it to get checked out and rego’d :blink: ah well we all have bad days :whistle:
Then came the fun job of finding all the bearing numbers and part codes, Again BIG BIG thanks to Shaun and the lads in service at Rock MC for what would have been very painful phone calls as I read out an endless list of bearings (6 of 12 actually) but all the same. Thanks Gents. They were able to get me a big end bearing set for a only a fraction more than ebay could have. Eastland Bearings supplied me with the remaining generic sized NTN bearings.As a student with somewhat limited income I dont mind admitting I used ebay a bit for parts etc one guy in particular who supplied the replacement front axle i was hunting a while ago also supplied me with an oil pump, kickstart mech. and counter balancer shaft (which it turns out i didnt need) and a new foot peg mounting bracket for $150 cut’n’dried (incl postage)
I did try getting as many parts locally but when one-less-than reputable supplier north of me had an oil pump from a ’96 for $120 i could really justify it or afford it :blink:So after about 3 or 4 weeks of spending and accruing i’ve got:
Moose gasket kit w/ oil seals,
Wiseco piston kit
Hotrods conrod kit
Wiseco timing chain for a CRF450 (Thumpertalk boys reckon its the go, same pitch and length as the XR just more beefy)
All the case beaings either OEM or NTN
Shindy Carb kit from Japan for the stock carb, love a mikuni but I need the kidney I have left :unsure:
new O2 Rush air filter from unifilter.
Lindsay from Probore also suggested while its in as many parts as it has been since the assembly line i might as well do swingarm and linkage bearings so they’re on the way too from pivot works
The frame is off in the spray booth getting a super hard primer and paint at Venture Smash Repairs
New tank and swingarm decals too :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
I’ve arranged for some dry ice and an oven to fit all the bearings with minimal fuss
Will soon talk to someone about re-jetting considering I’ve had the head ported as wellSo what am I forgetting???
will keep y’all posted (fingers crossed I read the photo bucket tutorial correctly)
My aim is to have it all done’n’dusted in time for Coffs (if its not full) or ChristmasSeptember 12, 2012 at 2:38 am #229302I moved it here to tech help Bull to stop all the carry on and you will get the help you require. TB is the XR man, Micknmeld has had a few 600s in pieces and Lefty did Chickens I am sure it will run again
theboss
September 12, 2012 at 3:04 am #229311Thanks Boss
October 15, 2012 at 4:35 am #229303Had a closer look at the old oil pump Rotors
Not as they should be. :ohmy:The work goes on :pinch:
The subframe had a bit of rust from a repair done previously (i think) which was braised up before painting.
The stand and right side footpeg mounts too
Can’t believe how well the frame has come up. Apart from the bottom frame tube on the right being stoved in looks like new :woohoo:The bearings all arrived and removing them was a breeze with a shop press, but found some scoring on the bearing housing
Sorted it out with a Rat tail file.Started assembly which is just like Lego or mechano, follow the numbers in the book, that simple :huh: (Mostly)
Was spinning up the clutch pressure plate bolts when one of the bolt heads sheered off the shank at about 4-5 Nm, so its luck that it did then :dry: .When I came to putting the left side crank case cover on one of the bolts was spinning in the thread housing, stripped bolt i thought
The solution was just to run a bottoming tap through all the threads to clean out and clean up all the threads. Took a while to do left and right sides but its worth while.October 15, 2012 at 8:37 am #230789Good luck with it all Bull. Looks like you have a job on your hands :ohmy: and look forward to the final restoration.
Cheers, Left one :blink:
October 15, 2012 at 9:08 am #230800Good stuff BW, more than I have been prepared to do. Good lcuk with the rest of it.
October 15, 2012 at 9:17 am #230805Good one Leo, Can’t wait to see the finished product in the flesh. :woohoo:
October 15, 2012 at 11:53 pm #230801Lefty wrote:Good luck with it all Bull. Looks like you have a job on your hands :ohmy: and look forward to the final restoration.Cheers, Left one :blink:
Yeah I’m not sure at what point the rebuild turned into a resto :blink: but somehow I’ve got carried away and that’s what happened :blush:
With no word of a lie, less than a week before the JRP seized up I was saying to my old man i’d like to strip it down and paint the frame one day…. :pinch:
October 16, 2012 at 12:05 am #230821Hate when that happens. I’m so pedantic I can’t fix anything, I end up “restoring” the whole thing …
October 16, 2012 at 3:33 am #229304That broken mainshaft used to happen whenever we removed an auto decompressor from the cam. it runs the kickstarter idler gear. was never designed to take that much force. we never snapped one off on a racebike, was always the trailriders who broke them.
The subframe repair is standard issue for the brace above the airbox, the 600 does the same. Little late now but the best fix is to remove the flimsy tube and use 20mm RHS square tube. Just use a MIG welder and be neat.
There is a good cam to put in them too, we worked with Tighe engineering in the day and i think the 432 profile was the cam to use, bit smaller than the HRC grind, it was too desert racing orientated for enduro use. send dean up an old burnt cam and he’ll weld it up and reprofile it. John from Waggot will do the same, similar price to buying a Hotcam out of the USA but a better cam.October 20, 2012 at 9:33 am #229305Thanks for the Heads up on the locals Teknik :woohoo: something I wouldn’t have found on my own, would’ve gone with one, eventually, as you said from the states. Will give both a ring on monday.
On the topic of auto Decomp removal, mine didn’t come with one (bought second hand) and it appears the oil gallery was never plugged in absence of the unit, that should have been done right? :huh:
Also is there a need to replace the cam shaft at all in terms of wear? I realise the stock cam aren’t optimal from what I’ve read/ heard. But is it something I can live with considering my limited prowessThanks Again B.W.
November 8, 2012 at 9:01 am #231066In all the auto decomps i pulled out at Ballards i never plugged the oil gallery. Why? well it never caused a problem. What burns up cams in RFVC engines is lack of oil pressure from having no oil in the engine or the cam bearings are backwards…
Be careful when you refit the cam bearings, the RHS bearing must have a seal on it to make the oil pass into the cam. if you use the open bearing all the oil falls out and you have no cam oil pressure. Same happens if you loose the dowl in the end of the cam, oil falls out.November 8, 2012 at 9:02 am #232186just found two 432 grind XR400 cams, like an HRC but a bit more bottom end. Was looking in my old cam box for XR600 cams…
$100 if you want one.
November 14, 2012 at 4:32 am #232187Thanks Teknik, would’ve jumped at it for sure! :woohoo: but I’ve just got mine back from Waggot today that i sent up last Wednesday :pinch: . I did get the rockers redone too though so thanks for the info on them too.
Maybe next time I rebuild an XR400 :whistle:November 14, 2012 at 6:53 am #232482All good, you are keeping John and Pete at Waggotts in a job, I’d rather you used them than bought Taiwanese made cams from the USA.
The hard faced rockers are the go, they can live without oil and never wear out. John will be getting some rockers from my 600 when i’m up to that part. -
AuthorPosts
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.