KTM Rear bearings – OLD Bull Trailriders

This topic contains 12 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Cris 11 years, 5 months ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

Author

Posts
October 31, 2013 at 9:16 am #103394

Cris
Member

Ok so Deuy (my brother & guineapig ) needed new rear wheel bearings in his 2009 KTM 300 exc so I go and get bearings, seals & a circlip from local bearing shop.

Has anyone had the bearing on the brake side just slip in??
My thinking this is not right should have to be tapped in softly!!

Does the hub wear over time so this happens and it’s time for a new hub?
I think it is!!

The chain side had to be tapped in like I was shown.

This is the first time doing anything like this but it was easy.

October 31, 2013 at 9:50 am #251236

Greg
Member

Yeah you got problem Boze you can centre pop the hub and loctite it but it won’t hold I have tried that before and long term it isn’t a fix IMO I mean it came loose before with a full surface area didnt, again just my thoughts. I have stripped the wheels before and had the worn bearing area in the hub machined out and a steel sleeve inserted to restore the bearing seat area to the original size. The positive is the steel area that the bearing will now sit in wont wear like the soft alloy hub. The other option is a new hub, start soaking the spoke nipples in WD or the likes now

If you need a hub laced sing out, maybe you could source the hub from Suttos and send the wheel down I can pick the hub up, lace it and sent it back. Just a thought (I like building wheels :whistle: )

TB

October 31, 2013 at 9:55 am #251237

Adam Rodgers
Member

Boze,

If your concerned that the bearing is too loose you could use some Loctite.

Which Loctite would depend on how much clearance there was. The stronger you go the harder to replace.

I’ve needed heat to shake the bearings loose on my DRZ and Sam’s KTM, you’ll probably need heat if you use Loctite too.

Wheels are relatively slow in the revolution stakes less than 1000rpm @ 100kph.

But they do have high loadings so it pays to keep them firm in place.

If they are quite loose you could always do the centre pop trick, haven’t had to do it on a bike but it’s worked on many other situations :whistle: Not sure how it would go though.

Adam.

October 31, 2013 at 10:00 am #251239

Cris
Member

Mmm not my problem TB Duey’s problem. Yep thought it was not right but thought I’d throw it out there.

Funny the things you find when you do the job your self..

Ok I tell him he needs a new hub for xmas and what you said.

Thanks TB

October 31, 2013 at 10:07 am #251240

Cris
Member

Adam

The one bearing just popped in using my fingers, so im guessing that the whole lot (bearing) is going to spin. So being like a loose fit it will probably smash the hub when it go’s.

So a new hub should do it

Thanks

October 31, 2013 at 10:10 am #251241

Greg
Member

Boze wrote:

Adam

The one bearing just popped in using my fingers, so im guessing that the whole lot (bearing) is going to spin. So being like a loose fit it will probably smash the hub when it go’s.

So a new hub should do it

Thanks

Boze it wont smash the hub just gets more and more movement over time

TB

October 31, 2013 at 10:28 am #251242

Matt Baker
Member

I use pieces of feeler gauges as shimming steel in my hubs, bearings don’t last real long as they are never perfectly centered.

Hubs are too expensive so I just got a new bike

October 31, 2013 at 10:52 am #251238

Moff52
Member

Hi Boze

You could try “glueing” the bearing into the hub with liquid metal product. Make sure the liquid metal is really dry before installing the rear wheel on the bike.

If the bearing is quite loose then you might be able to get the correct size “speedy Sleeve” to take up the slack and then press it and the bearing into the worn hub.

No guarantee either suggestion will fix the problem long term.

Ross

October 31, 2013 at 10:53 am #251245

Alex
Member

I still agree with lc. Feeler gauge is cheap and should work. TB’s insert is better. New hub is too expensive and too much work I rekon.

October 31, 2013 at 11:12 am #251246

Cris
Member

He liked the idea of the feeler gauge but not the new bike. He thought of the liquid metal but he is thinking a new hub and spokes or a new rear wheel, do they sell only the rear wheel alone or a set only?

At the end of the day I think a new hub with new spokes is the way to go at least. Do it once and keep riding.

All great ideas though.

Thanks everyone

October 31, 2013 at 11:39 am #251247

Cris
Member

LC4skin wrote:

I use pieces of feeler gauges as shimming steel in my hubs, bearings don’t last real long as they are never perfectly centered.

Hubs are too expensive so I just got a new bike

The last 2 rear wheel bearings in MY 530 done about 1000km each time no where near what I think they should have done. It see a lot of water. The seals have let them down, so I have modified the spacers and if it fixes my problem I’ll share it with everyone but I got to see if it works first.

October 31, 2013 at 9:38 pm #251248

Matt Baker
Member

Cheap wheels!

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/T7WHSN0MX/title/torpedo7-mx—enduro-cnc-wheel-set

KTM genuine rear hub, $358.98 :ohmy:

http://mototech.com.au/oem-parts.php?brandId=2&year=2008&modelTypeId=67&modelId=285&sectionId=14053&sectionType=FRAME

October 31, 2013 at 9:59 pm #251251

Greg
Member

LC4skin wrote:

Cheap wheels!

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/T7WHSN0MX/title/torpedo7-mx—enduro-cnc-wheel-set

KTM genuine rear hub, $358.98 :ohmy:

http://mototech.com.au/oem-parts.php?brandId=2&year=2008&modelTypeId=67&modelId=285&sectionId=14053&sectionType=FRAME

Those torpedo 7 ones are only 19 rears for KTMs if I am reading it right so thats no good :unsure: I could be wrong happens alot :laugh:

TB

November 1, 2013 at 7:25 am #251252

Cris
Member

LC4skin wrote:

Cheap wheels!

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/T7WHSN0MX/title/torpedo7-mx—enduro-cnc-wheel-set

KTM genuine rear hub, $358.98 :ohmy:

http://mototech.com.au/oem-parts.php?brandId=2&year=2008&modelTypeId=67&modelId=285&sectionId=14053&sectionType=FRAME

Yeh thanks LC

The web says $358.98 but the shop today tells me $338.?? and that it was superseded (78010010044(superseded by Part# 7801001014 ) because of this problem.

Shop says $550 new hub & spokes fitted to old rim

$750 Talon SM Pro rear rim

It be about time he spends money on it anyway 😆
Author

Posts

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.