Carbon Fibre pipe gaurd for your 2 stroke

2 Stroke Carbon Fibre Pipe Guard

I have just finished making myself a Carbon Fibre Pipe Guard for my GasGas EC300

Here is the simplified step by step procedure that I followed,

Items required:
Approx 500ml of epoxy and hardener
Enough Carbon Fibre to do the job I used normal weave and Bidirectional for added strength. I applied 2 ½ layers
PPE,disposabal rubber Gloves,Dust mask when grinding
Plasticene for filling any dents
Release agent (PVA) or Alfoil
Angle grinder fitted with flap disk
Masking tape, permanent marker,scissors Stanley knife
Brushes bought from a two dollar shop (5 for $2 dollars)
Ice cream container and mixing sticks,280 grit wet and dry sanding paper or Orbital sander
Stainless steel jubilee clamps (I need 3)

1. Prepare the pipe. This means give it the best wash its ever had get rid of any built up dirt and spooge.
2. Fill any small dents with plasticene or modelers clay. Ensure the surface is smooth
3. Determine how much of the pipe you want to protect, You can mark the area with a permanent marker pen, I like to have full coverage, the guard will go from the start of the small diameter at the header all the way around to cover the area up to where the pipe begins to go into the smaller section.
4. Apply release agent. Ensure a good coverage of release agent is applied to the pipe. This agent is a chemical called polyvinyl alcohol it goes on as a blue liquid and the alcohol evaporates out and leaves a thin plastic base. The beauty is that it dissolves when water is applied. Another method of release is to completely wrap your pipe in alfoil.
5. prepare your Carbon. As I was using cutoffs that were left over from a job you have to make do with what you have got, I was lucky in that I not only had the traditional weave Carbon but also a small amount of Bidirectional which is great for added strength.I put the best pieces in the order that I wanted to lay it down onto the pipe. The carbon was then taped in place so that it wont move. extra tape is then placed over the cut line, this makes it easier to cut the Carbon and reduces the amount of loose threads.
6. The pieces are all cut out and placed in order of application, extra bidirectional was cut to be placed in areas of the pipe guard that require extra strength being mainly underneath and the larger area of the expansion chamber.
7. I made a small bar that goes through the table , the stinger of the pipe goes over this so that you can apply the carbon and epoxy without worrying about the pipe moving around on you.
8. Mix up a small batch of epoxy and hardener in the correct ratios, you want to only do small sections at a time ,when the batch is mixed pour the epoxy into a large icecream container the bigger the container the better as it will allow a longer working life of the mixture.
9. Using a brush laydown an even layer of epoxy extending past where the first cut out of carbon will be going, then carefully place the cut out of carbon onto this area, you need to ensure the resin is gently worked into the carbon, this will be the extra strengthening pieces mentioned earlier. You will have about 15 minutes of potlife depending on the temperature of the day,if it is bloody hot like Saturday pot life is greatly reduced.work quickly .
10. Keep applying the carbon until the pipe is covered this may take 3-4 batches. when the epoxy goes into a semi stiff state it is now time to trim the carbon using a Stanley knife and/or scissors. When this is done you then have to remove the guard from the pipe to allow you to shape the pipe guard this needs to be done before it gets to hard as it will be impossible to remove when fully set. I use a running hose to dissolve the release agent and slowly pry the guard away big side first.

11. after allowing the pipe to set usually about 2-3 hours I use an angle grinder fitted with a flap disk to smooth out all the bumps and join areas.
12. Next comes the top layer of carbon going through the same process as mentioned before, you can lay it up on the pipe or do it without, if you do it on the pipe remember to reapply the release agent
13. When the guard has fully set do a final trim and sand using the flap disk again.round off all sharp edges and smooth out any rough areas.
14. get some 280 grit wet and dry or an electric orbital sander and give the guard a good going over.
15. Mix up a small batch of epoxy and apply this over the outside of the guard this is the finish coat. You can apply a second coat if desired.
16. you can then add some slots in the guard using a dremel tool,this is for the securing of the stainless steel jubilee clamps.
17. Fit the Biarch to you pipe and show off your latest homemade bling to your mates.

Photies not in order

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