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AnonymousHeres a way that my Dad taught me 20 years ago, he calls it the Chain jig, and still asks me if I used a chain jig on my boys bike almost every time he sees us race.
1. Put the bike up on a stand with rear wheel off ground and remove shock(you only have to do this once in the life time of the bike so dont stress)
2. Swing the wheel up and down through its arc and if you can do it easily tighten the chain 1/2 turn, then repeat, keep doing until you find a point where the chain goes tight, this is the point at which the wheel is furthest away from the swing-arm pivot point. You dont want the chain pulling to hard on the drive sprocket so make sure the wheel is not adjusted too far back.
3. When happy that the chain is at its tightest you want at that point to replace the rear shock.
4. Now with the rear wheel still in the air and the bike on the stand, pull upwards on the chain and measure the distance between the swing arm and chain, but here is the critical part, pick the point of measurement at a place you can get to later with the jig you are about to make, on the Katies I use the black plastic swing arm wrap around protector thingy as the point of reference.
5. Once you have the critical number get a piece of the harden broom stick and cut the thing to that exact size, making sure the cuts are parallel
6. Done. To give you an idea, they are small these jigs,the Katie is 63mm longTo Use it
Put the bike on a stand or a log in the bush with the rear wheel off the ground, grab you jig slide it in to the spot only you know between swing arm and chain on the top and it should be tight all round if the tension is perfect because the jig took up the desired amount of slack and no more, you will instantly know the exact state of the nation, after a while you know how many turns to adjust what you felt to keep it perfect.
Ktmrat wrote:
Quote:Heres a way that my Dad taught me 20 years ago, he calls it the Chain jig, and still asks me if I used a chain jig on my boys bike almost every time he sees us race.
1. Put the bike up on a stand with rear wheel off ground and remove shock(you only have to do this once in the life time of the bike so dont stress)
2. Swing the wheel up and down through its arc and if you can do it easily tighten the chain 1/2 turn, then repeat, keep doing until you find a point where the chain goes tight, this is the point at which the wheel is furthest away from the swing-arm pivot point. You dont want the chain pulling to hard on the drive sprocket so make sure the wheel is not adjusted too far back.
3. When happy that the chain is at its tightest you want at that point to replace the rear shock.
4. Now with the rear wheel still in the air and the bike on the stand, pull upwards on the chain and measure the distance between the swing arm and chain, but here is the critical part, pick the point of measurement at a place you can get to later with the jig you are about to make, on the Katies I use the black plastic swing arm wrap around protector thingy as the point of reference.
5. Once you have the critical number get a piece of the harden broom stick and cut the thing to that exact size, making sure the cuts are parallel
6. DoneTo Use it
Put the bike on a stand or a log in the bush with the rear wheel off the ground, grab you jig slide it in to the spot only you know between swing arm and chain on the top and it should be tight all round if the tension is perfect because the jig took up the desired amount of slack and no more, you will instantly know the exact state of the nation, after a while you know how many turns to adjust what you felt to keep it perfect. Oh My God, I gotta get me a Kato :blink:
Ktmrat wrote:
Quote:Heres a way that my Dad taught me 20 years ago, he calls it the Chain jig, and still asks me if I used a chain jig on my boys bike almost every time he sees us race.
1. Put the bike up on a stand with rear wheel off ground and remove shock(you only have to do this once in the life time of the bike so dont stress)
2. Swing the wheel up and down through its arc and if you can do it easily tighten the chain 1/2 turn, then repeat, keep doing until you find a point where the chain goes tight, this is the point at which the wheel is furthest away from the swing-arm pivot point. You dont want the chain pulling to hard on the drive sprocket so make sure the wheel is not adjusted too far back.
3. When happy that the chain is at its tightest you want at that point to replace the rear shock.
4. Now with the rear wheel still in the air and the bike on the stand, pull upwards on the chain and measure the distance between the swing arm and chain, but here is the critical part, pick the point of measurement at a place you can get to later with the jig you are about to make, on the Katies I use the black plastic swing arm wrap around protector thingy as the point of reference.
5. Once you have the critical number get a piece of the harden broom stick and cut the thing to that exact size, making sure the cuts are parallel
6. DoneTo Use it
Put the bike on a stand or a log in the bush with the rear wheel off the ground, grab you jig slide it in to the spot only you know between swing arm and chain on the top and it should be tight all round if the tension is perfect because the jig took up the desired amount of slack and no more, you will instantly know the exact state of the nation, after a while you know how many turns to adjust what you felt to keep it perfect. Does this for any other/All bikes( modern) or is this purely a hack thingy for KTM’s? Curious to know??? I’m not sure why ‘Cause mines as simple as putting bike up, check tension has 12 mm freeplay job done… But this explaination thing seems rather high tech and just may give better life to chain and Sprockets??? Or is my Medication too strong today?
AnonymousI still can’t belive people take the shock out to adjust the chain!! I do mine on the bike stand and it’s fine.
Or maybe that’s why I have a weepy countershaft seal
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