This topic contains 4 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Mick D 16 years, 1 month ago.
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May 13, 2009 at 9:11 pm #96372
As most of you would know, if you work on motorcycles enough, motorcycle companies in their eternal wisdom, often require you to purchase a special tool to do a job. More than likely you may only have to use this tool once, so purchasing one is not really an option.
Honda are no different, as they expect you to buy a special tool to compress the spring on the cam chain tensioner in order to refit it.
Here is a simple and cheap method,to overcome the spring pressure so that the tensioner is easily fitted.
Firstly you will need a vice, a zippy tie (preferably white,I will explain this later), a scalpel and a small butane burner.Firstly put the tensioner assembly in a vice and compress the spring, once you have the spring compressed, wrap a zippy tie around it and pull it up firmly, so it is positioned exactly like this:
It is important that you put the zippy tie on exactly like the picture above as it will aid in the cutting and removal of the tie at a later stage of the operation.
Once you have the spring compressed you can go ahead and fit the tensioner to the engine. It should drop easily into place if the spring is compressed enough. Slide the shaft through the tensioner and do up the grub screw to the makers torque specs or three grunts(whatever is easier). Once the tensioner is in place, be sure to have the tag end of the zippy tie hanging out of the engine, like so;
The next picture will show the tensioner in place with the zippy tie still holding the spring pressure.
Now comes the tricky part, releasing the spring pressure and removing the zippy tie from way down in the head. The reason a white tie is best is because it is kinda dark, down in the engine and a white tie is easier to see than a black one.
Now the butane torch and scalpel come into play, heat the scalpel blade until it is red hot,
Once it is hot, hold the tag end of the zip tie whilst carefully, seering through the zip tie with the hot blade. It will only take a second and the spring pressure will be released and the tensioner will instantly take up the slack in the cam chain with a audible “click”.
It is best to cut the zip tie right next to the ratchet block on the zip tie,that will enable the zip tie to come out in one piece, by simply pulling on the tag end of the tie.
Here’s hoping this technique helps someone one day, any questions, feel free to ask.
Cheers
MickMay 13, 2009 at 9:37 pm #134102good one mick!
certainly will come in handy here ,Big J (bello ride) will be sure to pick your ear on honda works that weekend;)May 13, 2009 at 9:39 pm #134103Great stuff Mick, this will help out a lot of other XR owners out there…..
How did you take the photos one handed and I loved the placement of the Old Bulls sticker in the background:laugh: :laugh:
May 13, 2009 at 10:13 pm #134104im always getting the strokes wrong when trying to find top dead centre (TDC) on everthing! is there a sure way to know or just watch the valves?
suggestions?:laugh:
May 13, 2009 at 10:28 pm #134108Aarochild wrote:
Quote:im always getting the strokes wrong when trying to find top dead centre (TDC) on everthing! is there a sure way to know or just watch the valves?
suggestions?:laugh:
Aaron,you will need to have the timing mark on the flywheel lined up with the mark on the engine case. At the top dead centre required, all your cam lobes should be pointing downwards.That is putting it simply and is the technique I use.
If the rocker cover is still on the bike and you cant see the cam, all your rockers should “Rock” indicating the engine is at TDC. -
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