This topic contains 11 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by dennis da menace 15 years, 8 months ago.
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July 31, 2009 at 12:47 am #96912
I’m looking at this kincrome torque wrench but know bugger all about them! Can any of you blokes give me some advice or recommend a better alternative.
To me this looks like it covers a good range for the bike rather than having to buy one for 1-20Nm and another for 20-110Nm
http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/micrometer-torque-wrench-square-drive-p-1071.html
July 31, 2009 at 1:03 am #145955Looks ok AB, king chrome stuff is pretty good stuff and is top quality weekend warrior stuff.
The only problem with those head hinge style tension wrenches is when you are doing very small torques it can be hard to feel the wrench click of and you can over tension the bolt / nut you are trying not to over tension :blink:
I have snap on tension wrenches that work the same was and am happy with them but for fine low torque work I use a 1/4 drive Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench one that the pin pops out to be sure
Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench
FEATURES:
– Dual signal ( see and hear when the wrench has reached the selected torque.)
– Very strong and durable all steel construction
– Manufactured to the highest standards so you can be comfortable that your readings
are extremely accurate
– Meets or exceeds Australian standards so you know that your getting the best!Part Number – 320500
Capacity – 10-220 in.lbs / 1-25Nm
Drive Size – 3/8″
Length – 20cm
Packed weight – .454kgJust from experience as its my job :laugh: get whatever you are happy with mate
Another web sites that may help
http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/PrecisionTools/home.aspx
http://www.snapontools.com.au/
TB
July 31, 2009 at 1:07 am #145956Hey
Your better off buying a torque wrench which does 5nm to 110nm as this will do all of the nuts and bolts on your bike and there will be no need for two wrenchs.
Theres plenty on the market and only depends on how much you want to spend.
You can have a look on ebay as a second hand one might be cheaper but you need to do some homework on them as certain types of wrenchs only go one way and if you use them to loosen nuts and bolts it can screw up the calibration.Something to think about
Cheers Gotchya
July 31, 2009 at 1:08 am #145957Hmmm…. I had looked at the W&B stuff but that’s $220 for that one at Just tools. I know they last if you look after them its just that i’ve made a list of bits that I want and it’s up over $3k
July 31, 2009 at 1:10 am #145958Saw Austblues post and was going to suggest a good W&B torque wrench, but as usual T/B beat me to it, look on ebay for second hand I’d rather a second hand W&B than a new anything else…. T/B have you ever seen anything else by them cause I haven’t yet the FIL has 3 of them and my best mate has 1/2 a dozen for his business, but nothing else of theirs?
BC
July 31, 2009 at 1:14 am #145959There’s obviously many people here with much experience using them day in day out. When it comes down to it (or down to $) it’s better to have a reasonable TWrench then no TW.
I have Kingchrome TWs and admit they may not be 100% accurate but at least they are consistent. I have not stripped anything yet. If money isn’t an issue I would direct you to the TB’s last post as those “pin type” TW like the Warren & Brown are the “Rolls Royce” of TWs. No question, the pin type are fooking brilliant.Last thing, if you go for a cheaper type like the Kingchrome, don’t unwind them all the way out, leave some slight tension on them as I have heard (and seen) them dismantle themselves to a point of no return (then the’re RS).
July 31, 2009 at 1:20 am #145962axel wrote:
Quote:Last thing, if you go for a cheaper type like the Kingchrome, don’t unwind them all the way out, leave some slight tension on them as I have heard (and seen) them dismantle themselves to a point of no return (then the’re RS).I have heard of that happening, the only problem I am told by the guy that does the yearly company paid calibrations on all our wrenches, if you leave tension on the spring in the wrench, the spring looses tension and becomes less accurate.
Just dont wind it right off and dont leave tension on it :blink:
TB
July 31, 2009 at 1:30 am #145965Quote:Just dont wind it right off and dont leave tension on itHaha yes :laugh: when I say slight, yes I mean slight of course. For sake of completeness, you can feel the tension completely go, it’s either nothing or something. I rest it against the “something”, but not wind into the “something”. That will confuse you
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When it comes down to it, even if there is some loss of tension over time, by my logic there will be less chance of over tightening, so the calibration will be “out” on the safe side. Instead of 10Nm it will really be 8-9Nm. In my mind – no big deal. At least all 4 (for eg) will be consistent.
July 31, 2009 at 2:28 am #145966As if I wasn’ already unsure enough, I had someone send me the specs on the kinchrome one I linked and I’m positive the “example torque settings” diagrams are wrong! haha
I’ll see if I can find the spec sheet online.
July 31, 2009 at 2:37 am #145961http://kincrome.com.au/web/download.php?type=ca&curname=Kin_MTW80F.pdf&orgname=Kin_MTW80F.pdf
take a look at the 2nd page. Unless I’m missing something the middle two pics are the only correct ones!
July 31, 2009 at 3:17 am #145967Austblue wrote:
Quote:http://kincrome.com.au/web/download.php?type=ca&curname=Kin_MTW80F.pdf&orgname=Kin_MTW80F.pdftake a look at the 2nd page. Unless I’m missing something the middle two pics are the only correct ones!
You are correct AustBlue, only the middle 2 are correct examples.
You should tell Kinchrome about that, they might give you a free torque wrench!I agree with TB though, I have a W&B one and wouldn’t have any other.
Some of the micrometer ones are very quiet and you can easily overtighten with them, or worse.July 31, 2009 at 7:44 am #145968my dad has a W&B torque wrench, hes had it as long as i remember:laugh: :laugh:
that makes me feel old:laugh:
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