This topic contains 15 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by 
-
I have just flushed radiators and added new coolant on the 07 KTM 525
Fitted new oil and filters and thought while I was at it I might check the v/v clearances
Removed seat, tank, spark plug and pulled back RH radiator with cable ties to gain better access to Exhaust v/v’s. Found all v/v’s to be a little tight so backed them off to 0.1mm. The hardest thing about this job is trying to set the engine at TDC as the engine just wants move over just past it. Any ideas??? On completion I found the bike wouldn’t start on electric
leg
I have had issues with this sort of problem before after not checking v/v’s for some time.
The electric starter sounds as though the battery is flat
Too hot to work in the shed for now but I might bring it up and have another go under the house where there is a breeze.
Its a bastard of a job and I usually make sure I get it right to start with
Oh well back to it
Theres a lot to be said for 2 strokes
Cheers
Murph
AnonymousRemove the valve covers. Blow out the spark plug hole with compressed air and remove the park plug. Now watch the cam lobes and valves on the intake/carb side of the head. Work the kickstarter until you see the lobes open and then close the intakes. There are two TDC’s on a 4 stroke, remember, so make sure you watch the intakes to determine when you’re on the comp stroke.
You probably won’t be able to stop the cam rotation very precisely but that’s okay. Stick a straw or ziptie (not the locking end) down the spark plug hole to show where the piston height is. Put the bike in 2nd gear and work the rear tire back and forth gently until the piston height indicator shows you the piston is at TDC. Then run the crank locking bolt in. Its shoulder should bottom out against the engine case without the thick copper crush washer.
NOTE: Unfortunately, the crank bolt will also bottom out on other places on the crank so you have to make sure you’re very close to TDC before setting it. What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down.
Also look here
Good luck with it
Thanks fellas
I don’t think you would have to use the “Crank locking bolt” just to do a v/v adjust, never had to before and wouldn’t even know where to look for it. Good idea to have the bike in gear and rotate the rear wheel though
As long as the rockers are on any part of the cam except the lobe all should be good As you said Beemster
Inlets are easy to get to but the exhausts OMG :angry: :angry:
Cheers
MurphMurph the surf wrote:
Quote:Thanks fellas
I don’t think you would have to use the “Crank locking bolt” just to do a v/v adjust, never had to before and wouldn’t even know where to look for it. Good idea to have the bike in gear and rotate the rear wheel though
As long as the rockers are on any part of the cam except the lobe all should be good As you said Beemster
Inlets are easy to get to but the exhausts OMG :angry: :angry:
Cheers
MurphCranking bolt makes it easy, mine wont seat all the way in unless you have it spot on, remember to remove the copper washer and rotate using rear wheel
Once the bolt is in the rear won’t move at all, this is how you know it is in right spot
hatto
Murph the surf wrote:
Quote:I have just flushed radiators and added new coolant on the 07 KTM 525
Fitted new oil and filters and thought while I was at it I might check the v/v clearances
Removed seat, tank, spark plug and pulled back RH radiator with cable ties to gain better access to Exhaust v/v’s. Found all v/v’s to be a little tight so backed them off to 0.1mm. The hardest thing about this job is trying to set the engine at TDC as the engine just wants move over just past it. Any ideas??? On completion I found the bike wouldn’t start on electric
leg
I have had issues with this sort of problem before after not checking v/v’s for some time.
The electric starter sounds as though the battery is flat
Too hot to work in the shed for now but I might bring it up and have another go under the house where there is a breeze.
Its a bastard of a job and I usually make sure I get it right to start with
Oh well back to it
Theres a lot to be said for 2 strokes
Cheers
MurphOn completion I found the bike wouldn’t start on electric
leg
Check that bloody button, they are a pain – (which reminds me I am going to change mine)All is good again :woohoo:
Took it back apart and found the exhaust v/v’s weren’t opening enough ie gap too big.
Adjusted them put it all back together and away she went, just like a new one
Found spinning the wheel whilst in 4th or 5th better than cranking it with the kicker to get a more exact position
Have just noticed coolant has dissapeared but it might just need a final top up after the little squirt I just took it for :unsure:
Thanks all
MurphMoto wrote:
Quote:Remove the valve covers. Blow out the spark plug hole with compressed air and remove the park plug. Now watch the cam lobes and valves on the intake/carb side of the head. Work the kickstarter until you see the lobes open and then close the intakes. There are two TDC’s on a 4 stroke, remember, so make sure you watch the intakes to determine when you’re on the comp stroke.You probably won’t be able to stop the cam rotation very precisely but that’s okay. Stick a straw or ziptie (not the locking end) down the spark plug hole to show where the piston height is. Put the bike in 2nd gear and work the rear tire back and forth gently until the piston height indicator shows you the piston is at TDC. Then run the crank locking bolt in. Its shoulder should bottom out against the engine case without the thick copper crush washer.
NOTE: Unfortunately, the crank bolt will also bottom out on other places on the crank so you have to make sure you’re very close to TDC before setting it. What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down.
Also look here
Good luck with it
Thats a good read, I did Moto’s valves last time for him and rotated the wheel as it was more accurate I found then the kick start as I was having the same trouble as murph. Any part of the lobe isnt ok to use, you need to be in the correct spot as the lobe could be just on the up or down. The bolt sounds like a good idea though.
The bit you wrote there Moto is good “What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down”
Here I was doing your valves as I thought you didnt know how or have ever done them :huh: :laugh:
I just watched the lobes rock to make sure I was on the right stroke and position
Great thread and posts Moto and everybody very helpful
what the tech thread is all about TB
Trailboss wrote:
Quote:Moto wrote:Quote:Remove the valve covers. Blow out the spark plug hole with compressed air and remove the park plug. Now watch the cam lobes and valves on the intake/carb side of the head. Work the kickstarter until you see the lobes open and then close the intakes. There are two TDC’s on a 4 stroke, remember, so make sure you watch the intakes to determine when you’re on the comp stroke.You probably won’t be able to stop the cam rotation very precisely but that’s okay. Stick a straw or ziptie (not the locking end) down the spark plug hole to show where the piston height is. Put the bike in 2nd gear and work the rear tire back and forth gently until the piston height indicator shows you the piston is at TDC. Then run the crank locking bolt in. Its shoulder should bottom out against the engine case without the thick copper crush washer.
NOTE: Unfortunately, the crank bolt will also bottom out on other places on the crank so you have to make sure you’re very close to TDC before setting it. What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down.
Also look here
Good luck with it
Thats a good read, I did Moto’s valves last time for him and rotated the wheel as it was more accurate I found then the kick start as I was having the same trouble as murph. Any part of the lobe isnt ok to use, you need to be in the correct spot as the lobe could be just on the up or down. The bolt sounds like a good idea though.
The bit you wrote there Moto is good “What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down”
Here I was doing your valves as I thought you didnt know how or have ever done them :huh: :laugh:
I just watched the lobes rock to make sure I was on the right stroke and position
Great thread and posts Moto and everybody very helpful
what the tech thread is all about TB
Oops, I may have been checking mine incorrectly :blush: But when I do the high point of the lobe is normally opposite the valve/rocker surface.
Thats ok Bemmer just make sure its at its lowest point
TB
AnonymousTrailboss wrote:
Quote:The bit you wrote there Moto is good “What I like to do is get the piston very close using a ziptie or straw. Then I remove the crank bolt and insert a regular phillips screwdriver and GENTLY work the crank back and forth just a hair until I “feel” the detent. Then I insert the screw and lock it down”Here I was doing your valves as I thought you didnt know how or have ever done them :huh: :laugh:
I didn’t write that bit, it was cut and pasted.
You did my valves because I couldn’t be arsed doing it and I cam down to Dan’s for a day of festivities. I haven’t done them on a bike before though only a Citroen AX GT and a Renault 21 Savannah (both cars just in case there were a few wondering)
Hey XY
07 Kato’s were the last of the nut and bolt type roller rockers
I haven’t had anything to with 08+ models but I’ve heard that it takes a lot more dicking around to adjust the shim type rockes
I remember my Dad volenteering to do a CRF 250 v/v adjustment and he said he would never do it again :ohmy:
Austblue the exhaust gaps were probably close to tolerance before I touched them, but they are perfct now The gaps seem to close over time, I’m guessing that the v/v seats wear.Cheers
MurphBig Thanks Murph
much appreciated are all pre 08 bikes the same rocker gear? i assume the 400/520 450/525 would be the same, but what about the 250?
as all the spec sheets i’v read, even on the KTM site don’t specify they were/are adjustable
nor that they are roller rockers :unsure: just rocker levers or finger followers.
only ever showed the lc4’s as having roller rockers.
if i had known that i would not have been so quick to reject the thought of buying an EXC :huh: after owning the lc4.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.