Fitting a new Clutch

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This topic contains 12 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Sean 13 years, 5 months ago.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #98266

    Greg
    Member

    So some of you maybe following the thread regarding Crash’s up and coming condo 750 ride and it was mentioned that once the bike was sorted and rubber fitted it was found the clutch was slipping. All the normal things checked out, clutch had free play at the arm etc. Crash with no time to muck around ordered new friction plates, steel plates and pressure springs.

    This morning I grabbed his bike on the trailer over to my place. I already had the clutch parts as I picked them up the day before, the friction plates I had soaking in engine oil ready to go.

    Firstly threw the bike on its side (bike had no problem with that spends a fair bit of ride time there :laugh: )

    P4010031640x480.jpg

    By doing this I dont need to drain the gearbox / engine oil and prevents any dripping mess

    Undo the 7 Bolts around clutch cover, thankfully Honda run a rubber “o” ring so its reusable

    P4010032640x480.jpg

    Cover off, now undo the 4 bolts that retain and the springs that clamp the clutch plates to provide drive, when you pull the clutch in you pull against the springs unclamping the plates

    P4010033640x480.jpg

    Weak springs here reduce the pressure the plates are clamped together with which can cause the clutch to slip, to stiff a springs makes the clutch harder to pull in need a balance

    Pressure off the springs and 3 of the bolts removed

    P4010034640x480.jpg

    Now to measure the springs and compare them against the new ones

    Old 47.30mm

    P4010038640x480.jpg

    New 48.57mm

    P4010037640x480.jpg

    So about 1.2 mm difference and well within spec of 45.40mm

    I then pulled the clutch pack out 1 plate and steel spacer plate at a time to inspect them all and keep them in order for easy reassembly. First thing I noticed was how burnt the clutch facing material was and the steel spacer plates had been blued. Crash does use a fair bit of clutch slipping you have to on a XR650 in some of the tight going, also on his last wet ride the clutch may have been slipping a bit and being wet he may not have noticed. When the clutch slips it generates huge amounts of heat, thus the bluing you see in the photos

    P4010039640x480.jpg

    Once into a nice stack and sorted there are no other dramas the clutch baskets fingers are inspected these are ok

    P4010040640x480.jpg

    The plates soaking in oil waiting assembly

    P4010035640x480.jpg

    I used some of the quailty Muc-Off disc brake cleaner to clean the packaging goo of the steel plates

    Reassembling via the old stack if in doubt, steel plate

    P4010043640x480.jpg

    Last fibre plate

    P4010044640x480.jpg

    Pressure plate bolted back on with new springs

    P4010033640x480.jpg

    Finished

    P4010045640x480.jpg

    For this job I used a “Y” brace 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. 1/2 litre of engine oil, clean tin to soak the plates, a rag and the Muc-off disc cleaner. The verniers you could do without.
    The job took 15mins including taking the photos and is very simple. If in doubt lay it out go step by step

    The test ride confirmed the repair, third and fourth gear wheelies Crash no slip ;)

    Now to write the invoice and the job is done

    TB

    #175137

    Anonymous

    Good write-up TB :)

    #175140

    Dean
    Member

    Moto wrote:

    Quote:
    Good write-up TB :)

    Yes indeed and quality ALDI Verniers to I see :laugh: :laugh:

    Ollie

    #175141

    Mick D
    Member

    Good write up TB,hopefully it will show how easy a job it is and inspire other blokes to have a go when the time comes to replace clutch plates.

    Couldn’t help noticing that factory brake snake thing,that looks the goods. ;)

    #175138

    Roy
    Member

    TB,

    If the basket fingers are notched can they be filed down or is it a case for a new basket. Do they tend to notch on the outer finger or the inner or both.

    The bolts on the springs. Do they get done up tight (ie. hard up against the threaded stems) or do they get done up to point where the springs are compressed to a certain tension.

    Thanks for the post. It helps me heaps.

    #175150

    Greg
    Member

    Bundyroy wrote:

    Quote:
    TB,

    If the basket fingers are notched can they be filed down or is it a case for a new basket. Do they tend to notch on the outer finger or the inner or both.

    They notch on the driven side and yes they can be filed which ever side that is in that case

    The bolts on the springs. Do they get done up tight (ie. hard up against the threaded stems) or do they get done up to point where the springs are compressed to a certain tension.

    The bolts do up tight against the post in the basket, that with the height and tension of the springs sets the spring load on the plates

    Thanks for the post. It helps me heaps.

    Happy it helps

    TB

    #175152

    Mal
    Member

    Nice work TB. Good easy to understand instructions.

    Get rid of those digital verniers mate, they are crap. They issue them to builders cause that about how accurate they are. :P

    #175153

    alan
    Member

    good to see you fixed his clutch TB it was sliping on the orange to hillend ride when i rode his bike should go heaps better now

    #175139

    Jason Green
    Member

    Trailboss wrote:

    Quote:
    So some of you maybe following the thread regarding Crash’s up and coming condo 750 ride and it was mentioned that once the bike was sorted and rubber fitted it was found the clutch was slipping. All the normal things checked out, clutch had free play at the arm etc. Crash with no time to muck around ordered new friction plates, steel plates and pressure springs.

    This morning I grabbed his bike on the trailer over to my place. I already had the clutch parts as I picked them up the day before, the friction plates I had soaking in engine oil ready to go.

    Firstly threw the bike on its side (bike had no problem with that spends a fair bit of ride time there :laugh: )

    P4010031640x480.jpg

    By doing this I dont need to drain the gearbox / engine oil and prevents any dripping mess

    Undo the 7 Bolts around clutch cover, thankfully Honda run a rubber “o” ring so its reusable

    P4010032640x480.jpg

    Cover off, now undo the 4 bolts that retain and the springs that clamp the clutch plates to provide drive, when you pull the clutch in you pull against the springs unclamping the plates

    P4010033640x480.jpg

    Weak springs here reduce the pressure the plates are clamped together with which can cause the clutch to slip, to stiff a springs makes the clutch harder to pull in need a balance

    Pressure off the springs and 3 of the bolts removed

    P4010034640x480.jpg

    Now to measure the springs and compare them against the new ones

    Old 47.30mm

    P4010038640x480.jpg

    New 48.57mm

    P4010037640x480.jpg

    So about 1.2 mm difference and well within spec of 45.40mm

    I then pulled the clutch pack out 1 plate and steel spacer plate at a time to inspect them all and keep them in order for easy reassembly. First thing I noticed was how burnt the clutch facing material was and the steel spacer plates had been blued. Crash does use a fair bit of clutch slipping you have to on a XR650 in some of the tight going, also on his last wet ride the clutch may have been slipping a bit and being wet he may not have noticed. When the clutch slips it generates huge amounts of heat, thus the bluing you see in the photos

    P4010039640x480.jpg

    Once into a nice stack and sorted there are no other dramas the clutch baskets fingers are inspected these are ok

    P4010040640x480.jpg

    The plates soaking in oil waiting assembly

    P4010035640x480.jpg

    I used some of the quailty Muc-Off disc brake cleaner to clean the packaging goo of the steel plates

    Reassembling via the old stack if in doubt, steel plate

    P4010043640x480.jpg

    Last fibre plate

    P4010044640x480.jpg

    Pressure plate bolted back on with new springs

    P4010033640x480.jpg

    Finished

    P4010045640x480.jpg

    For this job I used a “Y” brace 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. 1/2 litre of engine oil, clean tin to soak the plates, a rag and the Muc-off disc cleaner. The verniers you could do without.
    The job took 15mins including taking the photos and is very simple. If in doubt lay it out go step by step

    The test ride confirmed the repair, third and fourth gear wheelies Crash no slip ;)

    Now to write the invoice and the job is done

    TB

    Thanks TB for this write up I ordered a new EBC kit with springs and all the plates on ebay and did it today .At first I was a little worried but it all turned out well once I did my test ride.I have a brand new Metzler as well so the ol XR is ready for some work

    #179815

    Greg
    Member

    Hey glad it helped XRtrailhack, I love the real DIY stories from contributors here and thought I would do one myself. We did a good tyre change video with explanations at the Kenda I will post up. Also we are having a tyre change and tech night at Sutto’s on a thursday soon where tyre changing and other trail side tips will be discussed and hands on learning will be supervised by Sutto and some of the other experienced guys there. Pizza and refreshments as well :laugh:

    TB

    #179848

    Sean
    Member

    OK this thread is older than my undies, is there a consent on the best replacement clutch to use. Mine only has about 4600 k’s on her (02 model) owned it for about 15 months and have a small/occassional amount of slippage

    Whats the preference ??

    #210423

    Greg
    Member
    Burkey wrote:
    OK this thread is older than my undies, is there a consent on the best replacement clutch to use. Mine only has about 4600 k’s on her (02 model) owned it for about 15 months and have a small/occassional amount of slippage

    Whats the preference ??

    Hi Burkey, the kit above I fitted to Crashes bike was just a basic kit he got local. Two thoughts here from me, my clutch is 45k old its done A4DEs, trail rides, Condos, Yellow Mountains etc and still doesnt slip and I fan the shit out of it. The clutch in mine is a Nick Doyle Tekinks special which has CR250 plates and no judder spring plate I am told, if you are interested ring 02 47322622 and speak with Nick. I cant recommend that setup enough. My other thought would be a Barnett clutch kit, they are tough unbreakable and good value for money.
    Hope some of the above helps

    TB

    #210441

    Sean
    Member

    Thanks TB

    Will be going to Teknik to see about a rear spring for the young blokes bike so that makes it easy

    regards

    Burkey

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