This topic contains 22 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Jason 15 years, 6 months ago.
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April 8, 2010 at 12:30 am #98287
AnonymousI had a leaky/duff seal on my 300 and it has leaked most/all of the oil from the right fork leg. I now need to top the oil up and reset the level.
My question is how have you all been getting the top cap of the forks off? It has holes drilled in the aluminium for a special tool to allow removal, problem is I don’t have said tool and don’t really want to use a pipe wrench on the outer circular edge of the alloy cap.
April 8, 2010 at 3:00 am #175500First step is undo the front wheel, undo the triple clamps pull the forks and throw into Wheely bin, get some KYBs or Ohlins from late model donors and insert, problem solvered.
Nah seriously Moto get one of those adjustable grinder spanners with one fixed side and the other is hinged, should work from what I saw in the local KTM House of pain (dealer)
BC
April 8, 2010 at 4:45 am #175507
AnonymousSounds like a good idea bruce, I might even try my angle grinder disc locking key…..just in case!
April 8, 2010 at 4:53 am #175510
Like the lower tool.
April 8, 2010 at 11:01 pm #175512
AnonymousYeah that’s the sort of jobbie. Hopefully the pins will be the right size or smaller.
April 8, 2010 at 11:43 pm #175576i saw on ktm talk a way of doin it…. but i cant find it.
i remember looking at how to change fork seals
i think it said, put an allen key, tightest fitting one you can,in one of the holes..
then use a screwdriver against the allen key and the centre nut as a lever to turn it
know what i mean :huh:
it should work well in theory.
April 8, 2010 at 11:50 pm #175583
AnonymousCheers Menace, I had thought about jamming something in the hole :ohmy: but I could just as easily get some pipe wrenches on the outer piece of alloy and turn the cap out. Both ways will make a mess of my shiny bike
April 8, 2010 at 11:54 pm #175584Moto wrote:
Quote:Cheers Menace, I had thought about jamming something in the hole :ohmy: but I could just as easily get some pipe wrenches on the outer piece of alloy and turn the cap out. Both ways will make a mess of my shiny bike
especially with your mechanical skills :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
April 9, 2010 at 12:28 am #175585T103 F1 PIN TENSIONER ADJUSTABLE D# Nil $145.70
 
 
 
 
April 9, 2010 at 12:33 am #175586i’m assuming Moto’s model dose not have a centre nut on top?
as if it did, would you not just use a spanner on the centre nut?
my thought, you could drill two holes in a piece of flat steel and use a couple of bolts the same diameter as the holes, long enough so you can put nuts on ’em to tighten ’em up on the flat.
April 9, 2010 at 12:41 am #175588
April 9, 2010 at 1:04 am #175589yeah thats it Tony

XYs version is prolly better.
moto should be able to whip up one of those in his lunch hour, being an engineer and all :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
then again, XY, you might have to make him one :woohoo:
April 9, 2010 at 2:00 am #175593
AnonymousXY the nut you can see is the preload adjuster for the spring. The 4 holes round it are what I need to use to get it undone.
I could do something like you suggested, that would require effort though…..not really my strong point :laugh:
April 9, 2010 at 7:35 am #175501Moto wrote:
Quote:I had a leaky/duff seal on my 300 and it has leaked most/all of the oil from the right fork leg. I now need to top the oil up and reset the level.Has the the leaking seal been fixed or are you going to have it leak the new oil again?
You could syringe the new oil in from a measuring jug through the bleed hole if you cant get the cap off
TB
April 9, 2010 at 11:14 am #175626Yeah it was just dust and crap up under the seal.
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