This topic contains 55 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Paul 14 years, 7 months ago.
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August 24, 2010 at 9:34 pm #186431
Menace the pipe to barrel connection that the o rings have worn I would just try the standard “o” rings and some silastic could go to a slightly larger diameter “o” ring and silastic. Normal silastic will handle the job as it wont get hot enough just let the silastic cure
TB
August 24, 2010 at 11:18 pm #186432menace wrote:
Quote:Mr Blue wrote:Quote:Agree with the lads on the triples too, just replaced my twisted upper one with a fully adjustable asv one, it’s gooodddd as gold mate.Just do it, cause if the other one breaks I don’t need to go to vicco for a wheelchair run.
yeah, after mulling over the idea a bit i think i’ll have to lash out on some flash ones…
Hmmmm, i think black ones would go nice.
what is the go with the ASV ones Bruce, are they any lighter?
mine are fully adjustable from the factoryso i lose out on that advantage
now im thinking under bar dampner while im there :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
wish my moneytree was an evergreen :laugh:
Mate the ASV ones are pretty light and very well made, mine have rubber dampener mounts as well, in black ano so it’s pretty functional and looks the snizzle.
You reckon your’s needs a steering shock absorber?
I may throw a lot of crap at PDS, but the recent models I’ve ridden are pretty nice steering and stable enough at speed, certainly not what I’d call “nervous”, unless you glance off something silly, which is pilot error.
If you’re worried about it being nervous and you’re in the market for new triples, maybe one of the other offsets would help?
Mate I personally reckon, new rings at 100 hrs, just to keep it sliding true, and then new topend at 200, they are bullet proof, but not magic, and the rings can be seen as minor maintenance, like chainging gearbox fluid. Don’t even crack the head, just barrel base nuts and base gasket….
August 24, 2010 at 11:53 pm #186433menace wrote:
Quote:Mr Blue wrote:Quote:if you get a lip in the composite bore it means the coating is GOOOONNNNNNEEEE and you’re toasty marshamallowed, but KTMs have one if not the best plating around. Piston clips put one in on the bench, piece of cake, the other sorta “wind” it in using fingers, or get a real short bit of pipe around the same id as the od of the wrist pin and using a bolt with a good fit push it in using bolt and thumb pressure, You’ve got a god set of hands on you you’ll piss it in.
Maybe next time it’ll get150 hrsi reckon 150 easy mate, maybe 200 even!!
im not really worried about the ‘jesus clips’ as my dad used to call them :laugh:
i pre grooved some old pointy plier just for the jobHey Menace if you need any help or tools give me a call.
August 24, 2010 at 11:56 pm #186439have you got a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench mate??
mine is only 3/8.
need it for my barrel bolts
August 25, 2010 at 1:49 am #186384A great thread. Of special interest to me as it is exactly the same bike. B piston, does this mean first oversize and if it does how does this fit without any machining.
I have similar grooving issues in the exhaust flange. Was told about the issue and have been very concious about changing the o-rings every 25 hours. Still happens. Standard o-ring size is 44×3. From what others are saying maybe I should try 44×4.
I changed my piston and rings (at the shop) after 70 hours. They told me all was well. I’m at 125 hours and 4000km now and was considering doing it again soonish, but maybe myself this time. Hence why I’m loving this thread.
Last question, what the bloody hell did you hit to bend your triple clamps 20mm. I must have missed that thread as I’m assuming there was a good story to be told.
August 25, 2010 at 2:18 am #186449Bundyroy wrote:
Quote:A great thread. Of special interest to me as it is exactly the same bike. B piston, does this mean first oversize and if it does how does this fit without any machining.I have similar grooving issues in the exhaust flange. Was told about the issue and have been very concious about changing the o-rings every 25 hours. Still happens. Standard o-ring size is 44×3. From what others are saying maybe I should try 44×4.
I changed my piston and rings (at the shop) after 70 hours. They told me all was well. I’m at 125 hours and 4000km now and was considering doing it again soonish, but maybe myself this time. Hence why I’m loving this thread.
Last question, what the bloody hell did you hit to bend your triple clamps 20mm. I must have missed that thread as I’m assuming there was a good story to be told.
Here you go Bundyroy http://www.obtrailriders.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=56&func=view&catid=2&id=87311
STM
August 25, 2010 at 4:28 am #186440menace wrote:
Quote:have you got a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench mate??mine is only 3/8.
need it for my barrel bolts
Yes I have 2 off them 1 x Sidchrome – 1 x Kinchrome take your pick.
August 25, 2010 at 5:35 am #186450singletrackmind wrote:
Quote:Here you go Bundyroy http://www.obtrailriders.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=56&func=view&catid=2&id=87311STM
That there is some scary stuff. I would not even waste my time trying to pull that back in. I would also be checking everything that relies on the axle being straight at the bottom of the forks. There would have been a god awful amount of twisting force going on down there. Very lucky in the end I think.
Thread distraction over.
August 25, 2010 at 6:48 am #186463What Roy said X2
new triples time
August 25, 2010 at 7:51 am #186480For many reasons that I wont type because the explanations are too long I would reuse the triple tree or at least look at it. The clamping force around the tubes isnt that high they use surface area for retaining as much as clamping force
Its just my opinion
Its hard looking at pictures but a spray crack test kit could confirm it one way or another
Nice work with the rebuild Menace
TB
August 25, 2010 at 8:08 am #186485Trailboss wrote:
Quote:For many reasons that I wont type because the explanations are too long I would reuse the triple tree or at least look at it. The clamping force around the tubes isnt that high they use surface area for retaining as much as clamping forceIts just my opinion
Its hard looking at pictures but a spray crack test kit could confirm it one way or another
Nice work with the rebuild Menace
TB
i agree with TB save your bucks but check for cracks obviously
August 25, 2010 at 9:49 am #186486firstly roy, the only thing i hit to bend those clamps was one too many beers :blush: during tensioning time :dry: idiot, i am
anyway, i havent pulled the wheel off yet to look at the axle for bendage.
my new workbench arrives tomorrow. ive been waiting for it as its a bit hard doing all this shit on the floor. :Shopefully the pston kit arrives tomorrow too. i need the bench to pull down the PV and clean it out.
i reckon Bluey is right rings after 100ish, top end near another 100 again :laugh: :laugh:
the triple clamp….its another bone of contention :laugh:
my little joke to Mr Blue before about Katos having fully adjustable clamps from the factory has come back to bite me :laugh:
it seems that because of that, most major brands like renthal and tag and pro taper and shit dont bloody make them.:laugh: :laugh: there isnt any point selling them.
i walked into the local yammy/honda/harley peter stevens and asked the young fella about clamps. he looked everywhere and the best he could do was factory KTM gold SXS 18-20 offset you beaut super spoofo 25% faster ones for $999 (from boltons too) :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: we both had a laugh as i walked out :laugh: :laugh:
so ive been researching brands all arvo. it seems that there is a few to choose from in seppoland.
Zeta, Applied, RG3, Kite, maybe Fly….ranging from $199 to $599then from Scotts, i could get a top clamp, underbar damper and highrise barclamps for under $700 :side:
i need to do more searching and re searching.
im still gonna have a go at clamping, heating and beating the old clamps back…. unless i see cracking or major damage from the fork bouncing around.
im pretty happy the bottom clamp will be alright….but the top one??? Errr :unsure: i dunno.
if it looks ok it might do for nundlebut we’re gonna stop at newy for a dunes bash with Moto on our way home, so id like a damper for the sand
:laugh: :laugh:
i think i need to research some good excuses to tell Sammy :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
August 25, 2010 at 9:52 am #186487Stock KTM are pourous cast alluminium alloy aren’t they?
August 25, 2010 at 10:19 am #186499Good thread menace.
Dunno what advice to give you on the clamp.
Maybe a bolt right through the clamp and top tube and threaded into the clamp. :laugh:
Sorry mate I got nothing
August 25, 2010 at 10:27 am #186385what about 2nd hand units form a basket case? JDK wreckers sell stuff on ePay… they seem to have a load of Kato bike bits .
their site is a pain to navigate. but details are:
Daniel & Joanne Knoll
JDK Motorcycle Wreckers
15 Newcastle Drive
Toormina, NSW 2452
Ph/Fax 02 66582299 or 0410340057 Mbl
Email jdk@tpg.com.aumaybe worth a Ph. call just to see what they wanna sting ya for a set.
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