300 rebuild…

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  • #186503

    thanks mate, but its new or nothing for the 3hungy ;)

    #186386

    Alex
    Member

    That photo of your forks/clamps gave me a knot in the stomach.
    I’d go along with TB and see if you can reliably verify there’s no cracks. I would be very surprised if both clamps fail at the same time causing you an accident. If you have the money or are tempted by the idea of “adjustables”, then just buy a set. No question.

    Nice work on the engine rebuild. There’s no good excuse for any 2st owner not to do this work themselves. The savings from doing it yourself pays for the torque wrench.

    If no-one wants to buy my 300 I’ll be looking at a new set of rings and I’ll get out on mine again.

    #186550

    if you want a real knot in the stomach Axel, look at the videos on the ‘epic glenmaggie’ thread. i rode it like that for nearly 100km before i noticed…

    it nearly made me sick :blush: :X

    anyway, i got all the goodies from suttos yesterday and my new bench turned up….although it was damaged :angry: looks like it had a fight with a forklift :laugh: :laugh:
    after a few phonecalls and some stern words, the manufacturer has decided to sort out the issue and send me a new top and some other bits…
    it worked out pretty well. i wanted a 32mm mdf top but they wouldnt send it due to weight, only a 16mm.
    now they are sending me another 16mm one, so i get my 32mm top :laugh: :laugh:

    dickheads :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: typical sydneysider :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    im gonna go light the fire and check the ring gap, squish band, dimension ‘X’ and stuff this arvo.

    i was gonna rebuild it saturday but im “told” im going to South Aus for a nookie weekend :blink: :) :laugh: sweet i say :laugh: :laugh:

    via the great ocean road of course. ;)

    we just bought sammy a 2006 Corolla Levin the other week. its fully optioned and its a little rocket ship :laugh: it hangs on like shit to a blanket :laugh:

    it ought to be a fun weekends drive ;)

    the rebuild will have to wait. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    ive pretty much talked myself into a scotts top triple clamp and underbar stabilizer kit. should be able to land it from seppoville for under $800AU.
    otherwise a BRP clamp and mount, with a scotts damper, its a little cheaper

    not sure i want BRP written on my bike though :laugh: :laugh:

    #186395

    Alex
    Member

    menace wrote:

    Quote:
    i looked all over for the best and cheapest piston kit for the Kato.
    the best i found for a ‘group2’ kit (one size up) was $240. and believe it or not in sydney, from ProRider. they didnt have one in stock when i enquired.
    the next cheapest was also from sydney, ProCycles at $263.
    Seeing procycles is a KTM dealer and they were doing them that cheap, i thought id give Mal at Suttos a go.
    in typical dealer fashion he quoted me an astronomical price :laugh: i think the piston was $300ish :laugh: :laugh:
    i told him what they were going for and he matched the price on the spot ;) :) good onya Mal, much appreciated.

    Just looked it up on Boltons online :

    54830107200 I AK PISTON CPL. GR 1 D=71.925 1 $344.65
    54830107200 II AK PISTON CPL. GR 2 D=71.935 Nil $344.65

    $104.65 over your kit from Mal’s/Prorider. Is this true? WTF?

    #186551

    alan
    Member

    your bikes a shed ornament axle how could the rings be worn out just ride it

    #186566

    Alex
    Member

    white rocket wrote:

    Quote:
    your bikes a shed ornament axle how could the rings be worn out just ride it

    Wash your mouth out. It’s a shed ornament because the second hand market is useless still and no-one is interested to drive 5 hrs to buy the f’n thing.
    I’m this close to giving up and keeping it.
    It’s not ready for rings yet but I’ll have them close buy for when it does. I just like spending money. :side:

    #186553

    axel wrote:

    Quote:
    Just looked it up on Boltons online :

    54830107200 I AK PISTON CPL. GR 1 D=71.925 1 $344.65
    54830107200 II AK PISTON CPL. GR 2 D=71.935 Nil $344.65

    $104.65 over your kit from Mal’s/Prorider. Is this true? WTF?

    yep :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: ktm pricing :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    if you look at the ‘prorider’ website, their kits are $239 but no group 2 in stock.
    ‘procycles’ (who are near suttos) do them for $263, and have group II pistons.

    i found this out from “the 300 club” on DBW.

    when i called Mal at Suttos, he started rattling on about $300+ pistons…

    i stopped him with a chuckle and told him what i had found and he instantly matched it, well after he spoke to the boss anyway 😆
    i quoted the $263 one because i could get it. i probably could have said $239 and got the same result but i didnt cause i couldnt get it.
    maybe im too honest… oh well, im happy with the deal and i’d rather deal with Mal.
    He was only doing his job after all and once he knew who i was and that i was from OBT, the salesmanship stopped and it was all smooth sailing ;)

    a couple of weeks before i was thinking i would have to source it offshore as the prices are bullshit here…..

    i doubt i could walk into any bikeshop in melbourne and get that deal straight up :) so good on Suttos :woohoo:

    i dont mind paying the freight because to be honest, i would have to travel at least 30 minutes each way down here to get to any bike shop i like anyway!! so whats $10-$15 bucks ;)

    suttos do a lot for us and i like to give them a go when its worth it.

    i will be ringing Mal about my triple clamp and damper kit too. it never hurts to ask. ;)

    #186387

    jamie
    Member

    G/Day Menace what’s a group 2 piston kit mean? as your just scotchbrighting the bore its doesnt seem to be oversize.

    Good pics too mate,ill be stripping mine down shortly but don’t have an hour meter.What did your hours = in k’s?

    cheers

    #186591

    Alex
    Member

    Hello fellow 2 smoker.
    KTM 2st bikes often, if not always have 2 sized pistons.
    I or II, A or B depending on what era the bike is.
    The II or B piston is slightly bigger than the original. The actual size difference I can’t remember but will be known to someone here or a quick search on KTMTalk will tell you.
    Theres always been debate over which size to run. Many believe and actually do use the II piston after the original wears out.
    I’d rather use a little science to help make that decision.
    I’ll rather measure the current bore, find out how big those 2 pistons are and look up which would be within reasonable limits for a forged 2st piston. I’d rather use a I for as long as practically possible. Rings should last 80-120 in a reasonably paranoid world. Some stretch out to 200hrs. In practice I can tell when the rings need changing when the bottom end power deteriorates noticeably. I measure the piston everytime but generally a piston change every other time seems the go. If you have the money and like things perfect then change the piston everytime if you like.

    #186388

    jamie
    Member

    Thanx for the reply Axel,although i don’t have a KTM its interesting to know and might apply to my husky,something to look out for.

    I think i’m going the new piston each change though as the skirt was cracked after the last rings only change.

    #186697

    well the actual difference between the group 1 and 2 pistons is 0.025mm, or 0.010″ (ten thousandths of an inch)

    or a poofteenth as my dad would say :laugh: :laugh:

    group 1 = 71.025mm
    compared to
    group 2 = 71.050mm

    i dont have the piston/bore tolerances yet, but i’ll find them, or ring MAl :laugh: :laugh: the 300 has a ‘square bore’ of 72 x 72mm going by the book. i dunno if i’d trust that number though..

    Hmmm, square bore :unsure: …

    i dunno what or how that relates to a 2 stroke? maybe nothing as we need ports and skirts and shit for induction.
    i just remember my dear dad rattling on about it back when i was just a little tacker getting under his feet in the shed. he used to build sick arse engines for speedway beasts and the odd streetcar back in the ’70s :laugh: :laugh: it got him his whiskey money and he drank a lot of whiskey :laugh: :laugh:

    i notice all the 450 and up thumpers have generally oversquare bores. (wider bore and shorter stroke) is that to fit bigger valves in or to help them rev higher….probably both i spose. piston speed might have a bit too do with it since the new bikes seem to have very little piston skirt….

    i might have to have a look at my old TT350 specks in comparo to an XR400 and then comparo them both to some newerfangled WR400s and CRFs even, just for fun. :laugh:

    pity ive gotta finally go back to work tomorrow, its got me thinking :laugh: :laugh: why didnt i think of that 3 months ago :laugh: :laugh:

    need another thread for that anyway. :laugh:

    i will start checking tolerences on the 300 tomorrow arvo. ive gotta drop into Billt’s and borrow all his tools first ;) thanks buddy :)

    im gonna have to searth TT for numbers for the ring gap and piston clearances. they dont come in the manual. (unless one of you good blokes know them ;) :dry:

    dont worry Axel, i will be checking everything thoroughly. the piston itself is made to wear far more than the bore.
    it will wear some too, hence the group 2 slug.
    i havent slipped the new slug in the bore yet but the old piston would rattle around in the bore at TDC with the head off if you pushed your fingers on it and moved it around. i’ll measure the slop on everything old and new tommorrow including dimension X and Z and all that jazz.

    your right mate, there is a science to it, well prolly more a tolerance than a science but the same thought applies ;)

    if the new group 2 slug is too big, i just wont use it yet.
    if the old one is well in spec, i might use it again as its in perfect condition. i will just put rings in it.
    or if i need to i’ll just get a new group 1 slug kit, and keep the other for future loving…
    whatever it needs ;)

    my ‘old skool’ old man used to say, “rebuilding any engine is really simple if you use good, accurate, measurement and that includes torquing things back up…and bend the specifications to your advantage”.

    its easy to look at a rebuild and say “bugger that its too hard, i’ll give it to the shop to do” and fork out some big coin so someone else for the opportunity to work on YOUR bike!!

    if its taken in small steps, and with a bit of encouragement, anyone can do it and it is very, very, rewarding, especially if/when it starts in 3-4 kicks and runs smooth and hopefully will for the next 150 hours :) :laugh: :laugh:

    then theres the bragging rights that come with it too. :laugh: :laugh:

    “hey, Menace you champion, how much did they charge ya for the rebuild mate?”

    “about 300 bucks including beverages and i did it myself so now im highly expertized in it… i’ll do yours for a grand or so if ya want mate” :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    or something like that :P :laugh: :laugh:

    anyway, i’ll post it up as i learn it and do it, hopefully some one will be able to use it as reference in the future… and/or
    tell me if ive mucked something up in the present… :laugh:

    hey, im always open for CONSTRUCTIVE critisizm…. (shut up boony!)

    and any tips welcome ;)

    and twobanger, my 300 has done 4320km in 108.2 hours.

    next time you go for a ride, try to mentally average how many k’s you do every hour.
    mine works out to 40km/h average over its life. i do a lot of open riding so its pretty high for a bushbike. if you do tight single track heaps it may be as little as 20km/h.

    so if my bike had that many k’s on with mainly tight single, it would probably have 200 hours on it…

    does that make sense dude :blink: :dry: ;) :laugh:

    #186733

    Billt came over and gave me a hand to put her all back together.

    i pulled the carby down this morning and cleaned her out and checked the float level which was ok. it was pretty clean in there. its a bit of a bitch getting the carb in and out.

    i started by pulling out the power valve flap assembly. it looks a lot worse than it is and is pretty simple really to nut out. it pays to take note of where the lugs for the exhast springs go and also where the PV gears sit when it is fully open. i just took pictures to remember like this.
    IMG_0122.jpg
    IMG_0124.jpg

    the little TORX bolts that hold on the PV backing plates are as tight as a waterhound arse. i managed to get 3 of the 4 out ok but started to strip the 4th with my crappy torx set. Bill brought his one over and with a skoll of whiskey and a quick prayer to lord Kato it gave up and finally snapped loose :) ill need to get another one monday to replace it.

    i lightly scotchbrited the bore and washed the whole thing in warm soapy water to get any crap out of the bore and blew it dry.
    heres the barrel all cleaned up and ready to go
    IMG_0127.jpg

    bill did an awesome job of cleaning the PV flap. it was like new, :) thanks mate.
    IMG_0128.jpg
    ready for another 100 hrs…
    IMG_0129.jpg

    with a bit of clean 2 stroke oil slopped around i put the PV back together and siliconed the cover back on. got all the gaskets sorted and popped the head gaskets/o-rings in… ready to go!

    one thing i really hate is putting wrist pin clips in. it is a bit of a pain of a job and can go really wrong without care. it shits me that i know how to do it but i dont do it enough to be good at it :laugh: :laugh:
    i made ip a little device with a sharpened screwdriver and with a little swearing and coaxing got the first one in :laugh: Bill gave me a hand and put the new wrist bearing in. next jiggled the new slug into place. i should have taken a photo of the new piston ready but i was excited :laugh: :laugh:
    i fought with the second pin, eventually gaining the upper hand and muscled it into place. we put the clip openings at 6 oclock. i hope its right :dry:

    we oiled up the bore a bit and slipped the barrel over. it was a little fiddly holding everything and trying to check the rings were right as we slid it on. thanks again bill, your surgeons hand were a godsend 😆
    i just guessed the base gasket as the old one felt the same as the thickest of the new ones anyway. with it torqued down the piston is dead flush with the deck which is perfect.

    i should point out the tolerance differences too..

    the old rings had a gap of 1.1mm at 20mm down the bore. they were pretty rooted as to be expected.
    the recommended is 0.3 to 0.4
    the new ones had 0.26 each and with a light draw filing i got them to a tight 0.3, perfect.

    the piston/bore clearance is to be from 0.06mm to 0.1mm.
    the old slug was about 0.12 at 20mm down the bore. so was just out of line but would still be good for another 30-40 hrs i reckon. i didnt check the skirts.

    the new slug is a ‘tight’ 0.06…
    as in the feeler guage was a little firm in there but ok.

    perfect ;)

    there is no movement in the bottom end either, its all good.

    here is the new shiney new slug installed and shining. :laugh:
    IMG_0130.jpg

    we put her in gear and the piston slipped up and down as smooth as silk.
    as i said, deck height was good so we bolted the head on and torqued it down.

    then it was just the top mount, the PV covers, a new sparky, hoses and coolant…thanks AGAIN Bill, i had none and supercheap had just closed. Bill to the rescue :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    head on, hoses on, cover to go on.
    IMG_0132.jpg

    the new exhaust flange o-rings are different to the factory ones as in the originals are a square o-ring and the new ones are thicker and rounder. probably because its a known fault that they chew out flanges…
    i had a bitch of a time getting them to go in and the outer one shat itself. i used some heat proof silicon as well and it was a snug fit with just one. it should be right.
    i did also notice that my expansion chamber has cracked its outer skin near the header end. its not right through. it looks like it had a hit and i suspect its because of my Hyde bashplate bolting directly to the exhaust and not the frame.
    i might save up for a new whipps one. they look like the go maybe.

    anyway we bolted her all back together and cracked the carb bown to get some fuel down.
    i got on and gave her a few full throttle rolls through the kicker to prime it, pulled the choke and second kick she idled into life :) :) :)

    i was a happy camper. we checked coolant and let her idle up to temp with a few high fives and woo-hoos’s.
    she purrs again :)
    i think Billy was as excited as i was :laugh: :woohoo:

    i was quite suprised with the new compression on the kicker too, its heaps higher.
    choppa has a comp tester so i will drop in and see him tomorrow and test it so i have a benchmark reading for the future.

    when it got to temp i shut it off to cool down to cold again.
    i will go out now and start her for another heat cycle before i start pulling the forks off and she will be ready to ride tomorrow.
    i might even go hit some marginal roads on my own to prep her for nundle.

    half a tank of tentativeness and its band time ;) :woohoo:

    see dudes, if i can do it anyone can :)

    #186946

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    B)

    I love it when a bloke gains skill and enjoyment from using it…

    WTG Dennis

    #186389

    Alex
    Member

    Good job menace thanks for the write up and pics.
    So you cleaned up the powervalve too after 100hrs eh. Do you think it needed it?
    That ring wear is quite good. I wonder what gap those blokes running 200hrs get to?? :ohmy:
    Did you end up putting in the bigger piston from ktm?
    I have to hit up suttos for a kit too soon. I keep holding off to sell the girl but there’s not enough genuine interest. Did you Know that boltons sell 1 ring, not pairs off their website? What the??

    #186958

    axel wrote:

    Quote:
    Good job menace thanks for the write up and pics.
    So you cleaned up the powervalve too after 100hrs eh. Do you think it needed it?
    That ring wear is quite good. I wonder what gap those blokes running 200hrs get to?? :ohmy:
    Did you end up putting in the bigger piston from ktm?
    I have to hit up suttos for a kit too soon. I keep holding off to sell the girl but there’s not enough genuine interest. Did you Know that boltons sell 1 ring, not pairs off their website? What the??

    the powervalve was the dirtiest part of the whole lot. cooked on carbon and oil residue. if i had a wire brush for the grinder it would have taken about 5 minutes. it was more the contact surfaces on the PV flap shaft that i wanted clean, the rest is a bonus.

    those blokes running 200hrs probably have 6 different ring gaps. that long on rings is looking for trouble. :angry:

    yes i did put the group 2 piston in. it was pretty perfect to spec too. :)

    Mal at sutto’s is the man Axel, he will look after you ;)

    Boltons probably sell single rings because the SX model only runs a single ring piston ;)

    i fixed my triple clamp too. mr big rubber hammer did a good job :laugh: :laugh:

    still gonna replace the top one though :) when my damper arrives.

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