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300 rebuild…

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This topic contains 55 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Paul 14 years, 6 months ago.

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  • September 4, 2010 at 7:29 pm #186962

    Mick D
    Member

    Good stuff Menace. A good tutorial that will give other guys the confidence to have a go themselves.

    September 4, 2010 at 11:26 pm #186963

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    You’re using Motul 800 aren’t you Mr Menace?

    On ring end gap, it depends on the type of rider you are, the air filtration, oil type, ring material quality all these things combine to give wear rates.

    I am a bit surprised that the powervalve was that gunked up in 100 hours, the flapper on KTMs and sub-ports usually defy this for a few top-end changes, another hint for cleaning them is believe it or not CRC556 or WD-40, I reckon the hydro-carbons are the trick…

    But all in all a job well done and done in good timeliness, now you can ride and ride and wear it out again…..

    September 4, 2010 at 11:45 pm #186966

    dennis da menace
    Member

    it wasnt really gunked up, just a layer of crap like plaque that chipped off.

    i dont think i really needed to clean it, it was a learning exersize more so.

    but yes mate, its always motul 800.

    September 5, 2010 at 12:19 am #186968

    Bill
    Member

    Ring end gap is easy 4thou per inch of bore for soft riders
    6 thou per inch of bore for some one that revs the motor hard or supercharge/turbo

    to check piston to bore clearance i heat the piston in a pot of oil starting at room temp and go up in 10 deg incremt till piston wont go down the bore you want to do this fast as you want to keep the bore at room temp

    what you are finding out is what sort of a temp increse you can get before it nips in the bore if you cant get to 80deg it will fail in short time

    you can measure with dial bore gauge etc but wont take in to account the different expansion rates

    September 5, 2010 at 12:38 am #186390

    jamie
    Member

    Thanks for the read Menace,

    Ill be checking a few more details when on my next rebuild,which judging by the way its not starting too well must be now.

    September 5, 2010 at 1:39 am #186969

    dennis da menace
    Member

    KTM Bull wrote:

    Quote:
    Ring end gap is easy 4thou per inch of bore for soft riders
    6 thou per inch of bore for some one that revs the motor hard or supercharge/turbo

    to check piston to bore clearance i heat the piston in a pot of oil starting at room temp and go up in 10 deg incremt till piston wont go down the bore you want to do this fast as you want to keep the bore at room temp

    what you are finding out is what sort of a temp increse you can get before it nips in the bore if you cant get to 80deg it will fail in short time

    you can measure with dial bore gauge etc but wont take in to account the different expansion rates

    gooday Bull, long time no chat. :)

    that kinda makes sense. the 300 bore is 72mm, so nearly 3 inch and the specified ring gap is .3-.4mm (12-16 thou)

    for soft riders like me anyway :laugh: :laugh:

    your not just a pretty face Bill :P

    buggered if im gonna go putting the piston in the deep fryer either…

    i’ll just warm it up good mate :laugh: :laugh:

    September 10, 2010 at 1:04 am #186588

    Alex
    Member

    menace wrote:

    Quote:
    if you look at the ‘prorider’ website, their kits are $239 but no group 2 in stock.
    ‘procycles’ (who are near suttos) do them for $263, and have group II pistons.

    Hmmm….. I looked some of this up myself just now.

    Procycles website
    Group I $289
    Group II $263

    Prorider (rang them because their website is mental)
    Group I & II $272

    When I spoke to Mr Prorider, I asked him what he recommended for say an 80hr 300, I or II.
    He said I should measure it (fair enough). Then he said this: “If it’s too tight (Group II) then you risk “lipping” the piston”. “If it’s too loose (Group I) you risk not having enough compression” :blink: :blink:

    If I were him I would have probably said nothing or something more sensible like:
    – Too tight = more risk of cold/hot seize or in other words too much ally on nikki.
    – Too loose = risk of quicker wearing piston, piston rattle, broken skirts etc.

    Rang Ballards just for completeness, awaiting a call back on A/M kits.

    Either way, I’ll be tearing down to measure first and going through Suttos in the end.

    September 10, 2010 at 1:25 am #187226

    Alex
    Member

    Ballards:
    Wiseco $285
    Vertex $277
    Woosner $215
    ProX $285
    + Gaskets $49
    + Small end bearing $15

    September 10, 2010 at 4:13 am #186391

    Scott Tyszkiewicz
    Member

    Dont forget you guys get an old bull Discount..

    September 10, 2010 at 5:35 am #187242

    Alex
    Member

    TISCO wrote:

    Quote:
    Dont forget you guys get an old bull Discount..

    That makes the choice a no brainer. I’m sure we all will do what we can to support our sponsers! :cheer:

    My notes above only show what a great deal we get through Suttos without a doubt.

    The A/M kits are bad value in my opinion.

    September 13, 2010 at 9:27 am #187248

    Paul
    Member

    Great thread…thanks, I did mine at around 100 hours but diddnt go the OS piston just yet, heaps more grunt!

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