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You need to check that boiling spec Hatto, 200 degs. 200 degrees celsius would be a fair claim to fame as water boils at 100 c there abouts and glycol under 15psi pressure boils around 114 – 117 c in our diesels on the dyno :blink:
It cant be 200 fahrenheit either cause thats only 93 c
I am curious as the the correct spec because its bloody good stuff, but I dont think its that good, although as always I could be wrong
TB
Trailboss wrote:
Quote:You need to check that boiling spec Hatto, 200 degs. 200 degrees celsius would be a fair claim to fame as water boils at 100 c there abouts and glycol under 15psi pressure boils around 114 – 117 c in our diesels on the dyno :blink:It cant be 200 fahrenheit either cause thats only 93 c
I am curious as the the correct spec because its bloody good stuff, but I dont think its that good, although as always I could be wrong
TB
http://motorcyclecoolant.com.au/
Sorry, 190 degrees, read above
hatto
Liquid Intelligence 115 gives boil-over protection to 190ºC, so it’s thirty percent more thermal efficient than traditional water/glycol based coolants.ollie
Ollie wrote:
Quote: Liquid Intelligence 115 gives boil-over protection to 190ºC, so it’s thirty percent more thermal efficient than traditional water/glycol based coolants.
ollie
That was quick ollie, we don’t get the chance to pounce on his lack of knowledge very often :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Hatto
Now that I think about it, I remember Huskybloke telling me he had similar trouble on his Husky, (just 1 of the many though
). He was telling me when mine boiled over one day and said he used the Ice and had no more troubles.where is KTMBull, he has the answer…
Riggs wrote:
Quote:Gents,I think you need to be careful with those fully synthetic ones … do you really want the water supposedly cooling down your engine pumping through it at 190deg C ?
Think Trailboss mentioned something about the ability to absorb and then dissipate heat. Apparently water is the best at this, although we cant have pure water cos of impurities, corrosion and freezing issues.
And that supposedly is the beauty of Engine ICE, contains pre-mixed distilled water and additive.
190 c :ohmy: I still cant see it getting that high from experience really, but hey like I said what would I know :laugh: I would rather have an engine that didn’t get above 100 or even 95 to tell the truth and ran at 90 c would be niceTB :ohmy:
Read the link, it has an explanation of how it works
30% more efficient ie better than water/glycol at absorbing heat and then dissipating it to the radiator cores/fins.Ollie
huskybloke wrote:
Quote:engine ice i thought was a good product the main thing i was having problems was in the tight tuff it would boil and then steam out the overflow and then lose your coolant .After replacing the motul coolant with that engine ice it never pinged or lost any coolant through steaming out the overflow and overall run cooler.Fair dinkum, honest testimonial right there guys!! There’s a bloke that has used it and is singing its praises.
Might be worth exploring it’s benefits.Thanks Huskybloke
Ollie wrote:
Quote:Read the link, it has an explanation of how it works 30% more efficient ie better than water/glycol at absorbing heat and then dissipating it to the radiator cores/fins.
Ollie
Yeah Crash read the sales explanation from the sales department it couldnt be wrong :laugh:
:laugh:I am not disputing the fact that the coolant is very very good but 190 degrees C and components running at that no way. Crash is a mechanic, I do this for a gig and teach failure analysis as well as other mechanical related courses and components just wont do it.
I am not saying the coolant isn’t a good thing and solves overheating like in Huskyblokes example (thanks for a punters honest opinion
) Mal swears by it and Hatto but anything over 120 degrees and the pistons expansion will start causing problems.TB
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