a Forgery i tell you!

[Dwayne OMember]

So, ya`s don`t like my lever ????:angry: Mongrels:P

[GregMember]

Did you fit a rim lock XY, because the knobbie will grip and the tyre could spin on the rim and tear the valve outa your tube under brakes now the tyre has some purchase on the dirt

TB

[glennMember]

EAGLE`02 wrote:

Quote:

So, ya`s don`t like my lever ????:angry: Mongrels:P

I like your mongrels and your levers arent bad either:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

[Dwayne OMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Did you fit a rim lock XY, because the knobbie will grip and the tyre could spin on the rim and tear the valve outa your tube under brakes now the tyre has some purchase on the dirt

TB

Yes, I learnt this one the hard way on the trail a few months back, fit a rim lock XY, its a MUST;)
TB Speakeths Wisely

[Dwayne OMember]

Boony wrote:

Quote:

EAGLE`02 wrote:

Quote:

So, ya`s don`t like my lever ????:angry: Mongrels:P

I like your mongrels and your levers arent bad either:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Stay away from my shower at Nundle Boontang,,,

[glennMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Did you fit a rim lock XY, because the knobbie will grip and the tyre could spin on the rim and tear the valve outa your tube under brakes now the tyre has some purchase on the dirt

TB

Trivia time,,
I seen a valve get torn out of a front tyre when a mate was clowning around and tried the old hold the front brake on and spin the back wheel, the back gripped and spun the rim on the tube, ride stuffed…

[glennMember]

EAGLE`02 wrote:

Quote:

Boony wrote:

Quote:

EAGLE`02 wrote:

Quote:

So, ya`s don`t like my lever ????:angry: Mongrels:P

I like your mongrels and your levers arent bad either:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Stay away from my shower at Nundle Boontang,,,

will you be wearing your feathery nighty? (_*_)

[Dwayne OMember]

Nope, but might be holding my Mongrel & levers :ohmy: :blush:
You idiot:laugh:

Come on , get back on the topic ya fruitloop:P

Fit the Rim lock XY (if ya haven`t already)

[dennis da menaceMember]

thread gone mad in 35 minutes…gotta be a record!!

and i wasnt even involved:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

go with the tempering XY. easy as, and should work too.

can ya make me up some new shoes for my horse while youre at it mate.

ya old cobbler:P

glad your getting rid of the slicks. i cringe every time i see em;)

[drewMember]

JAK wrote:

Quote:

Try tempering them. Heating them red hot (not melting hot) with an oxy then dunking them in oil (prefered) or water. you may have to do this a few times to get the hardness needed.

yeah i was hushing:blush:Rushing in all the excitement .

to temper them you use the hot then quench in water a few times then the oil the final time.

as i don’t think quenching in oil each time would work. heating the steel would burn the oil and loose it’s benefit.

ok scrap that, i just asked my old man. you do all the needed work= shaping,

then you heat to cherry red, dip it in the oil for a second then quench it completely in water.

[drewMember]

menace wrote:

Quote:

thread gone mad in 35 minutes…gotta be a record!!

and i wasnt even involved:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

go with the tempering XY. easy as, and should work too.

can ya make me up some new shoes for my horse while youre at it mate.

ya old cobbler:P

glad your getting rid of the slicks. i cringe every time i see em;)

i thought the slicks would be excellent for drifting in the snow!:silly:

i shoe horses real well!

Shoo, SHoo, SHOo SHOO
:woohoo: :woohoo: :dry: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

um i never had rim locks fitted before, 11000 kms on the 640.

however not real serious riding like most old bull’s though!

what tyre pressure would be the go?

for riding here, clayish and some sand. i run about 28 psi.

my bro was in the old sand/gravel pit, some ‘riders’ said ahh your tyre pressure is too high, let it down a bit. he did a bit to what they reckoned.

kicked it in the guts, roosted off, got a couple of meters and chewed the valve out as above mentioned.

but i have never had an issue without having rim locks.

however i’ll take heed and get some.

any suggestions of what type/brand?

THANKS Peoples;)

[GregMember]

Just any old rim lock will do mate, dont bother with the fancy billet types.
Tyre pressures with ultra heavy duty tubes 10psi – 16 psi depending on conditions

Standard tubes, 16 to 18 psi

TB

[dennis da menaceMember]

mate, rim locks and halve the pressure. (i run 12-14 on rocky ground, down to 10 in the slop) you will hook up better, therefore ride better and harder…like the old bull you are!!!

and you will be able to steer it with the front wheel too!

oh and those horseshoes…. i need about 43 of them for the kato:P

[DeanMember]

Hey Xy going back a few to many years when we did Blacksmithing in our apprenticeship,, there is two things you must do 1, is to Harden and 2, is to temper

#

First you need to understand why steel needs to be tempered. To understand that you must understand the process before tempering, hardening. First metal is worked into the shape of what it is to become. After the metal is shaped into a tyre lever it needs to be hardened. To harden the metal its is heated till its orange hot. Then the metal is quenched in clean water. The super heating and rapid cooling make the metal very hard. However it also makes the metal very brittle. Sometimes you want the metal hard. In our case a brittle tyre lever would be a bad thing. As soon as you applied to much pressure to the flat tip it would crack breaking the tip. This is where tempering is needed.
#
Step 2

After hardening the flat tip of the tyre lever, we have made it very hard and brittle. Now we must temper the point. To do this slowly heat up the tip of the tyre lever. A blue line of heat will appear on the metal as the temperature rises and travels down the shaft of the lever. When you see this you have reached the correct temperature for tempering. Place the shaft on a metal surface and allow it to cool slowly. After its cool your tyre lever is tempered.
#
Step 3

The tempering process has taken most of the brittleness from the steel. Allowing you to apply pressure and not have the tip crack and shatter.

We did use oil as well in my time,basically it is used to soften the shock of the quenching process. The temperature of the oil is raised to about 50 degrees C and the metal is quenched after reaching the desired temperature you remove the metal from the oil when it reaches a straw color. The grains of the metal are aligned symmetrically to provide maximum strength.
Hope all of this info is not to over the top and any one who is better informed can correct me if they want.

ollie

[drewMember]

over the top? of our heads?

nar all good info. next time i fire up the forge i’ll harden AND temper the levers and see how they go.

i tried my old man’s car levers and they are just too thick! and bruised the rear rim. they are not a flat profile, rolled sides ( if that makes any sense ) o==o um looks something like this:blush:

i’ll have some time to get it right as i now have to wait until i get the locks.

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