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Gidday all,
Thought it might be good for those interested in keeping there bike looking good to have a few tips on applying graphics. We have applied plenty in our time here at Tee n Cee, aftermarket, genuine and of course our own. So here is how we go about ( take into account I’m new to this forum stuff so hope it all works with pics etc.)
I guess starting with what you need, something to clean the plastics with ( make sure the rag is a virgin ) a heat gun, small utility knife, a squeegee of some sort, application fluid ( a spray bottle with just a few drops of quality deterg like morning fresh should do , not too much or it will be too slippery and wont dry out ). Oh yeh the most important part… some liquid refreshments to calm the nerves!
The first and very important step is to ensure the plastics new or old are are extremely clean. Even after washing them as you normally would wipe them down thoroughly with Isopropyl Alcohol, wet rag on dry rag off ( to get rid of any residue ) If you dont have Isopropyl use wax and grease remover or metho just test what you use somewhere first in case it dulls your plastics. Make sure there is no evidence of any silicone spray or bike shine inside or out ( very important ) the decals wont stick if there is, it may also get on your fingers from the inside of plastics.
I’m going to show our wet method for aplication as we find it the easiest way when you have more time on your hands. If you are in a mad ass hurry then doing them dry is better following the instructions thet come with the packaging. Its usually a case of taping the piece in place, removing or folding back part of the backing paper then working your way across the graphic rubbing down as you go to work the air towards the edge. Either way its much better not to apply graphics the day before a ride, do it a week before and let them have some time to fully adhere.
Hold the graphic in place to make sure its gunna fit and start with one of the flatter easier shapes to get warmed up.
Next step in the wet method is to remove the backing completely and spray the sticky side thoroughly with a fine mist of appo as well as the offending plastic. Carefully ( do everything carefully ) place the graphic in position sliding it around until it all lines up. This is hard on more curved shapes and takes a bit of experience and/or luck to start in the correct position. With the wet method it is easier to remove the decal and start again if you need to reposition it.
It might be worth mentioning here to start with a clear and clean workspace and the plastic on the bench. Some pieces are better done on the bike so you have your hands free you be the judge.
Once the decal is in place start squeeging the moisture out towards the edge, some heat form the gun may be useful here to help mould the graphics to the curves and contours. Not too much heat at this stage you just want enough to help massage the decal down the shape of the plastic.
AnonymousGood stuff Mr Cee
Putting graphics / stickers on can sometimes be a little bit of a pain in the arse. It is all too easy for things to go pear shaped. The sign writers at work use the wet method all the time, which as you would know and pointed out makes things easier for lining up.
Those graphics that your applying look pretty cool too.
Dont stress too much about getting it all down 100% at this stage just get it reasonably close then put it aside so the moisture can evaporate naturally.
Often you need to do some minor trimming where things dont line up spot on, make sure you use a sharp knife and dont push too hard and engrave your plastics
with more complex and curved shapes there is obviously mor potential for failure and cursing ! ( this is where the woodstock might come in handy )
Its hard to explain , I guess this is where some experience comes into play and heh I’m not real confident working on engines , horses for courses and all that.It takes a bit of care and finesse with the heatgun and squeege , working it towards the edge bit by bit. I like t use the sharp side of the squeege sometimes here rather than the padded side. Hopefully the pics help explain how it goes. Once it’s mostly down just put it aside for a few hours somewhere warm ( not direct sun though ) or overnight and let some of the moisture evaporate away. Come back later and give it a good rub all over ( sounds a bit sexual eh ? ) and a good go with the heatgun, do any trimming you need to do then just leave it for a couple of day before riding.
Any questions please feel free to ask and I’ll try and help
PS we charge on average $11 per piece to do application for you. $33 for a set of race numbers $33 for a shroud tank set.
and you thought I couldnt get it down eh ??
hi Mr Cee,
when’s Mr Tee gonna sign up :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
i needed help with the photo thing too.
was shown this
http://www.obtrailriders.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=56&func=view&catid=8&id=12006
Thanks for the tips
Drew.
AnonymousExcellent demo MrCee
How do you get those rippley bits out from the edges?I want my DRZ back so it could look really blingy
But now I have the Beemer Yeah,
I agree, that is a ripper of a thread! Shows some good pointers ito the art of application.
Thumbs up from me too mateyThe secret is well & truly out now , kind of, for KD`s graphics for the Motard Banana :laugh:
It will still look the goods Princess, especially with an expert like MrCee on the job :cheer: and I can`t wait to see the final results of the graphics.
Cheers
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