Brake bleeding systems

[TrentMember]

Going to try and get a syringe tomorrow and if I can’t I’m going to give this a try…

http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bleeder.htm

[TrentMember]

I bought a 60mL syringe from the vets for $5 and went down to bunnings and 4m of 5mm clear hose and a short joiner (didn’t need it but just in case) and headed out to the shed on the rainy Friday night with a cold 6pack. I spoke to my mechanic and he suggested I use the syringe to suck the fluid out through the bleeder and top up the MC as I was going and thought I’d try that since it sounded straight forward. It was very straight forward and probably only took 2 beers to get it done and what a difference! I use to be able to press the rears pretty far down but now the range of movement seems to be about 3” so it’s going to make a huge difference! I’ve left an occy strap tightened over the front lever to force any remaining bubbles up but it feels much better also.

To give some background, as mentioned previously I’m new to riding and this is my first proper bike so I’m pretty clueless about maintenance and set up but I’m learning step by step . I knew I wasn’t happy with the front and rear brakes and I’d learnt the basic ongoing maintenance so I wanted to learn how to maintain the brakes next.

I’d ridden Ben’s 450x and discovered what front brakes should be like when I squeezed his as hard as I normally squeeze mine and nearly went over the bars! The rear brake had a couple of problems – I thought the pedal had been adjusted all the way down but it was still resting high and against the clutch cover so I had to really reach plus I couldn’t feel them under my boots but thought I’d just have to get a new pedal and learn to feel it more when on them.

Before my last ride I took a closer look at the rears (after learning it was $160 for a new pedal) and discovered it had 2 adjusters, one for engagement position and one for rest position and the latter was way out and causing the problem. I adjusted the position and they were much easier to get on but I still couldn’t feel them and had to stomp the crap out of it to lock it up compared to other blokes that were just sliding into corners so I was really keen to fix it up.

When I took the MC cover off it was very nearly empty. I was pretty shocked but it explained why they were so bad! I stuffed up a touch right at the end of doing the fronts by letting the MC get too low and although they feel much better to squeeze I think I’ll do them again after I get a ride in this w/e. The rears were much easier to do yourself because you’re in reach and view of the MC and bleed nipple from the one position though the cylinder is small so I overflowed it several times.

I was hoping to notice when the new fluid started coming into the tube but it looked just like the old fluid I probably put 200mL into it and called it quits because it seemed plenty and I didn’t want to run out and not get the rears done.

I noticed that bubbles seemed to constantly flow into the hose when the valve was open and these would only stop when I really, really tightened the bleeder.

Thanks for the advice guys

[TrentMember]

I just came up with an idea for doing them alone next time! If I put a check valve in line I’ll be able to stand near the MC and watch it rather than being near the bleeder valve to close it when the syringe gets fully retracted. Good excuse to head back to bunnings

[scott bockingMember]

On the weekend I went to bleed my front brake using the TB method which makes a lot of sense to me as that is how I bled my MTB brakes as a little air in those small systems really affects performance.

Problem was that I noticed that one of the phillips head srews on the resevior is rounded out. I did not notice when I bought the bike second hand. I checked other threads, heads and they are all good but this on has me stuck.

Any advice on getting the little bugger out without causing damage?

Cheers

STM

[DeanMember]

Have Seen this many times, at least you know the previous owner was doing his maintenance. To get the screws out you have to get an impact driver (about $15 from bunnings or any auto shop)from memory use the smaller tip of the two that usually come with it. use a little bit of gentle persuasion.

Ollie

[scott bockingMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Have Seen this many times, at least you know the previous owner was doing his maintenance. To get the screws out you have to get an impact driver (about $15 from bunnings or any auto shop)from memory use the smaller tip of the two that usually come with it. use a little bit of gentle persuasion.

Ollie

Thanks Ollie.

[DeanMember]

singletrackmind wrote:

Quote:

On the weekend I went to bleed my front brake using the TB method which makes a lot of sense to me as that is how I bled my MTB brakes as a little air in those small systems really affects performance.

Problem was that I noticed that one of the phillips head srews on the resevior is rounded out. I did not notice when I bought the bike second hand. I checked other threads, heads and they are all good but this on has me stuck.

Any advice on getting the little bugger out without causing damage?

Cheers

STM

Hey STM howd ya go with the rooted phillips head screw?

Ollie

[scott bockingMember]

Made a visit to Super Cheap today and will attack that bad boy on friday.

Thanks again.

[TrentMember]

As I said my rear brake was nice and tight after bleeding it. I was worried it was too tight but thought it’d be ok but one way or another I burnt through my newish pads. Other possibility is that I was riding them a little because they were sitting high. Either way by half way through the day I had no rear brake which made for some interesting descents in the wet stuff!

Good ride on the weekend but sheez how about the carnage! All good lessons though and although reactive, I’m learning :blink:

[GregMember]

Could have just been the muddy conditions if they weren’t good quality pads Austblue. First time ever I tried some Ollie had been talking about on E bay, cheap s*#t pads and wore them out before the end of the day of the caves ride.

Food for thought is all, mud real rips into pads, see Ballards use solid rear discs in the mud, increases pad life by double they say

TB

[TrentMember]

I’d considered that too. I might look at the solid disks since I plan on riding the watagans a mostly and its always grainy out there.

Cheers for the tip.

[DeanMember]

buying cheap pads is false economy, i actually use braking brand, i was in a pinch once and ordered cheap pads for the RMX They went alright in the dry but in the wet Watagans they lasted about 3 hours and were down to the disk:angry: The North side of the Watagans is the harshest area I have ever seen on brake pads:ohmy:

Ollie

BTW TB Never listens to what I have to say:laugh:

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

BTW TB Never listens to what I have to say:laugh:

‘Ha TB likes to try things before he speaks about them, and for the first time I found Ollie was right about something, dont expect to see it ever again :laugh:

TB

[murph the surfMember]

Hey Austblue
I made the mistake once of puting a set of organic pads on My sons YZ, they only lasted one ride. The sintered pads are the ones you want.
Cheers
Murph

[BillMember]

singletrackmind wrote:

Quote:

Made a visit to Super Cheap today and will attack that bad boy on friday.

Thanks again.

Did you get the screw out if not wait till you get here we can have a go got plenty of tools and there will be Tech heads a plentyB)

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