Brake bleeding systems

[TrentMember]

I bled my rear brakes on Saturday and I find that when I’ve done them they’re very stiff and not much play and with my pedal adjusted as low as possible its still very level with the peg and the slightest touch engages the brake. I did accidentally find that if the position bolt backs out and the pedal sits a little higher than its easier for your foot to sit where it wont accidentally engage the brake and you can still find it and have some play in the pedal before it locks the rear so I think I’ll just have it a tad high next ride and just learn to find it smoothly when needed.

TB up to you because I’ve taken what I need from this but you might want to split this thread up because there’s some good information here but its not all relevant to bleeding brakes. Perhaps make a Brake systems and a brake bleeding tech thread? I’d be happy to take some pics next time I bleed them and update the bleeding thread into a how-to.

I also found that after I bled them I couldn’t put the calliper in enough to get both new pads in so I had to use the ones in there which luckily lasted me the day but they’re rooted now. Any tips there?

[Bruce CurtisMember]

Austblue did you use clamps to push the cylinders back in?, leave the cap of the M/Cyl when doing this with a rag around it and the fluid is supposed to back bleed when the lever is in the neutral position.

The rear brakes I had the same issue, but I did manage to get my union nut to do up enough to lower it to where I like it.

bruce

edit just realised it’s a KTM=brembo

[TrentMember]

No I didn’t I just use my knee and that’s usually enough

I figured taking the cap off the M/C would help but its a pita for me since I don’t have a 21″ spanner so I have to remove the m/c and use a socket. I really need to start spending more money on tools

[Bruce CurtisMember]

Oh you have one of “THOSE” master cylinders, mine has the remote reserviour up near the carby.

I’m not a fan of “those” reserviours, too hard to refill.

Bruce.

[TrentMember]

If I had the right size spanner it’d be a breeze!
I couldn’t find a pic of the m/c but if you look closely at this pic its behind the guard.

[img]http://www.bboffroad.com.au/Yamaha%20access/MASTER%20CYLINDER%20GUARD%20WR250R.JPG[/img]

[TrentMember]

I changed the rear pads last night and also tried something that seems to have worked and will be tested out this weekend.

Previously I have topped the M/C up all the way to the brim and let if overflow as I put the lid on. Do all rear m/c’s have a rubber boot attached to the lid that sits inside the cylinder? Anyway my ktm does so that’s why it overflows.

So I cyringed a bit of fluid out before installing the new pads and left the fluid level down a little and it feels like the brakes are a tad spongey which I think will be more user friendly now where previously they seemed to stiff so they were either on or off and not much feel through my boot.

Anyway its all good practice in the shed and on the bike because I’m yet to make good use of my rear brake.

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