Chain length??

[john pavkovicMember]

Hi all,
After the recent run with Mal and the boys I struggled big time to get the traction on the steep technical hills at low speed :angry: I am sure technique and experience is a large part of that but i am also hoping bike setup will help as well. I know my DR isnt suited to this sort of riding but I noticed the massive gearing difference on the rest of the bikes :ohmy:
Currently running 14/44 and am going to go to 13/46 which is a big change but its about 3 teeth more than standard.
Now to my question, if i want to leave the rear wheel in the current adjustment on the swingarm does 14/44 (14+44=58) 13/46 (13+46=59) mean that the chain needs to be 1 link longer?? :unsure:

Cause I would like to do more of this riding what other changes would be beneficial??
Lower tyre pressures
More supple front end
Longer wheel base

PS Not trading it in just yet :laugh:

HS

[glennMember]

it is defenitly not your riding mate. yes the DRz is not the best suited bike for that style but they are very capable, I went to 14 front/ 50 rear on my DRZ and it was awesome in the tight stuff.yeah you will need to adjust the wheel to suit but if you ask the other DRZ riders I ride with they will tell you the difference between my old bike and their bikes.

Boony

[RoyMember]

My 2c worth.

Not sure about your logic on chain length but my gut feeling says it would need to be more than one link longer. If you’re buying 2 new sprockets it may be better to buy new chain as well and the you’ve got it covered.

Be aware tthe change in ratio is going to knock back your open road cruising speed to around 89% of what it is now. Don’t know DRZ’s much but say you can sit comfortably on 120 now, this will be reduced to 106 at the same revs.

As for things that help. I’d say practice is the most important factor. Not sure of your tyre pressures but I run 12 psi. Take anything of the bike you don’t need to reduce weight. Will help with control and fatigue from having to pick it up on hills (not a criticism of your ability, we all have to pick up bikes). The surest way to bring any man undone is to get him to pick his bike up off the ground on the side of a hill a half a dozen times in a ride.

Not sure if 13/46 is a good ratio for DRZ as I’m not familiar with their gear box ratios etc. Others who own DRZ’s will soon tell you what they run.

Edit: Just saw Boony’s post. 14/50 is very similar to 13/46 but it means you only need to buy the rear sprocket (the dear one). Still not sure how many extra links you’ll need though. I’m also not sure how much difference it would make to the ride if you moved the wheel forward to get current chain to fit (if possible).

I went from 50 on the back to 52 and just moved the wheel forward and couldn’t notice the difference. I’m no chad read though either. It’s also not as much difference as 44 to 50. I do remember being surprised at how much the wheel had to be moved though for only 2 teeth.

[Adrian GaleMember]

Holeshot,
from what I saw of you riding and the vids, you did bloody well.

2 steps is hard with all the large loose rock and the step , you smashed it easy.

Team Galey’s Hill where the bike and rider where getting hot, has not been run in very much and quite “green”or new. The trick with that one was to keeping moving forward and not let the rear tyre dig in. Easier said than done when you dont know where the track goes.

Heart Attack Hill , you did well with the log jump, very controlled, and only picked one wrong line where I went past you as,with local knowledge, I knew the straighter line that kept me moving forward. Chin up big fella you did well.

I ran a tube in the rear for that ride and ran at 16psi then dropped to 13/14psi after the mud section. I hate flats so I run a higher pressure. I also run a cut out tube around the rear tube for that reason.

The DRZ gurus will give you their specs on what they run. Me KTM 300 14 / 50. Climbs Ok , Fire trails OK 80 kmh or it’s revving heaps and singles in 2nd or 3rd depending how tight it is.

Check the Suzy section of OBT for any similar posts

Just my opinion mate

Galey

[Nick JacksonMember]

Hi Holeshot , when I had my DRZ I ran 13/48 and found it good in the tight stuff but I’m not sure the gearing helped with hill climbing as it was harder to find the point between traction and wheel spin/ flipping !!

The DRZ has a strong bottom and mid range and seems to handle Thr standard gearing ok. I rode a mates after I changed my gearing and started to wish maybe I hadn’t!

Corey8 is a great hillclimber on his DRZ and hopefully he’ll let you know what he’s running if not maybe pm him as he gets up anything on his DR

I agree with Bundyroy and if you change the sprockets get the chain to suit too

Nick

[Robert JillettMember]

Hi Holeshot,

I have been running 14/47 on my 09 DRZ and find in good for the steep hills.
Having the 14 tooth on the front is not as hard on the chain guides and won’t wear them out quiet as quick.
Cheers
Robert

[john pavkovicMember]

Thanks to all,
All good advice and will be taking all onboard,specially more practise on the hills Goin out for a squirt 2morrow on he hills in the Hampton area and will muck around on them.
Will be keeping the current gear set for the criuzier rides Ive found it to be easy on the bike and rider.

Thanks again
HS

[Adrian GaleMember]

I always hear blokes telling stories about this bugger of a hill at Hampton that when you get down the bottom it is slick clay and cannot get out. It wont be dry tomorrow. :pinch:

Be careful mate and have fun.

[alanMember]

last time i went there went down one of those hills and had to get helped out and it was dry.it was fun but and not the only one stuck

[James RookyardMember]

One tooth on the front sprocket changes the gearing way more than a couple on the back. Plus you can run the same chain length and it only takes 5 minutes to swap it rather than half an hour for the rear sprocket. Yes you should run new chain on new sprockets.
One tooth on the front bigger on my CRF took it from 110 flat to 145 flat which is all I did to race at yellow mountain (changed sprocket and chain as a set though).
However, the tool you need to use for snotty hill climbs is the power application lever (some people call these the clutch lever). That is how you control wheel spin and give it more drive when you need it. Some hills are just plain hard to get up though. Especially those red slippery ones around Gingers Creek lol.
Always look at the line you want to ride and not the line you don’t want to ride. That way the bike goes where you want it to. Simple tip, but it works.

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