Clutch issues

[CarlMember]

I’m having an issue with my clutch on my XR. You pull the lever and the clutch doesn’t seem to be engaging fully. If you try to push her forward or backward in gear with the clutch lever puuled in she stills gives resistance like the clutch isn’t being pulled. If you fire her up and then pull the clutch in and put it in gear it clunks into gear, she isn’t creaping forward though until you realese the clutch lever. I have tried adjusting the clutch at the lever and also at the gear box end but still no good. If I remove the cable and pull the gearbox end lever by hand all the way it still doesn’t seem to engage properly and there is resistance still. Not sure what is going on but does any one have any idea what it might be and any quick fixes with out pulling the clutch completely apart?
Not sure if it has any thing to do with it but I had a flat rear tyre when I got up this morning. Fixed it up and when I put the rear tyre back on I turned the chain adjuster two clicks as the chain was quit slack. With the two clicks it made the chain’s free slack 35mm. So once she was back together I went for a 10 minute ride to the local mall, parked her up for about an hour then rode home. On the ride home I noticed that her tone sounded slightly different, slightly muffled compared to usual, not as crisp a note. Also the gear changes seamed slightly rough like each gear kind of jerked in and she slightly reved abit like I wasn’t pulling the clutch in properly. Like I said not sure if it has any thing to do with it.
Tell you all one thing though, the old saying about buying second hand bikes is starting to ring true. The old girl seems to be giving up on me every time I take her out.

[glennMember]

I honestly have no idea about the clutch problem, however it sounds like when you have played with the adjustments you have over adjusted and you may be getting some clutch slip???could explain it not sounding as crisp,because the clutch is unable to disengage totally.
mate never give up on the old girl,, the guys on here will have this problem soughted before you can say Boony for prime minister.. :cheer:

[timMember]

Have you changed the engine oil recently, if you have what oil did you use, My old xr400 told me when it needed an oil change and clutch performance was always one of the signs.
If the oil is old or the incorrect grade (thickness) clutch drag can result especially when the engine is cold

[CarlMember]

Hey Booney I only made the cable adjustments after the problem had started after my ride.
medo thanks for that. I will have a look at the oil. Apperantly it had a full service just days prior to me purchasing it. But I have heard some “good” stories about the mechanic shop where it was suppose to have been done so it wouldn’t surprise me if it wasn’t touched. I know it came out of there with out the rear break conected again after they put new tyres on, so quality assured. Getting back to the oil, what would you suggest for an old 87 XR600?

[DeanMember]

Penrite HPR15 Gas is good oil and well priced. Syco dont be afraid to pull your clutch basket out to have a Squiz,its a relatively easy job. You need to get a vernier to check the thickness of your plates. Also is you cable OK? does it need to be removed flushed out and oiled up or even replaced. just a few thoughts.

Ollie

[CarlMember]

Hey Ollie I lubed the cable a fortnight ago so I’m thinking it isn’t that, also if I remove the cable from the box end and pull the lever by hand it still does the same thing, you can push her forward with the clutch pulled but it takes a bloody huge amount of effort, not quite as much as in gear with no clutch though. If the plates thickness is alright but they are bent or warped at all can they be straightened?

[DeanMember]

If the plates were warped or buggered in some way you wouldnt be able to fix it. The best option is to buy a new set from Ebay(US)while the dollar is still relatively strong,probably about $100 this will include new springs fibre plates and steel plates.

I have used this guy plenty of times and he is very good to deal with

Ebay Item number: 360160047477

Ollie

[CarlMember]

Thanks again Ollie. When you pull the side cover off does it usualy kill the seal/gasket? I’ve never delt with bikes but played with 351’s a bit, I know there are some gaskets that can be re-used on them, eg carb gasket, but not sure about bikes. Do they have to be replaced every time a cover is pulled?

[DeanMember]

No mate clutch gasket is usually pretty hardy. Just ensure that when doing it back up do it in several steps in a crisscross pattern and dont over tighten! cases are expensive

Also check the condition of the clutch basket fingers, if they have deep serrations you can do a quick fix by filing out these serrations. The clutch action will become a lot smoother.

Ollie

[CarlMember]

Bike shop isn’t open till tomorrow so I might lay her on her side and pull her apart and have a look at the clutch. Seems weard that it didn’t show any signs of packing up before it did or is that normal? Then again I’m no seasoned rider so it might have been showing signs and I didn’t see them.

[timMember]

Don’t want to sound silly but does the bike roll easily out of gear, sure something silly like wheel bearings or even brakes are not an issue, if not here’s a manual I found that may be of some use.
download manual here
http://hondatech.info/search/XR/600R/
I think most models are the same.

As Ollie has said your problem sounds more like warped clutch plates, if/when you go to remove the clutch cover, lay the bike on it’s side, tape the kick start shaft to save the seal, when the clutch cover is off, pull in the lever and see if it is actuating the pressure plate enough.
This will prove the clutch actuation side of things is working correctly

[CarlMember]

So I have layed her down and pulled the side cover. The springs appear whitened to one half, looks like possible dicolouration from heat. All the fibre plates look good. All the steel plates look good exept the 3rd one in appears to be discoloured from heat. I haven’t messured their thickness yet but all look like new and are very straight. The clutch basket’s fingers have slight grooving on them so I will file/sand them smooth. I see in the manual it says to use a lock nut wrench on the cluch lock nut. I don’t have one, can I use a standard socket? Also when putting it back together should I keep all the plates in order as they come out? and do they need to be re-oiled first? I’ll take some snaps in a while and post them also.

[DeanMember]

syco26 wrote:

Quote:

So I have layed her down and pulled the side cover. The springs appear whitened to one half, looks like possible dicolouration from heat. All the fibre plates look good. All the steel plates look good exept the 3rd one in appears to be discoloured from heat. I haven’t messured their thickness yet but all look like new and are very straight. The clutch basket’s fingers have slight grooving on them so I will file/sand them smooth. I see in the manual it says to use a lock nut wrench on the cluch lock nut. I don’t have one, can I use a standard socket? Also when putting it back together should I keep all the plates in order as they come out? and do they need to be re-oiled first? I’ll take some snaps in a while and post them also.

Ok to check your steels for warpage you need a known flat surface,and some feeler gauges,see if you can slide a feeler gauge under the disk,the manual will tell you the limits. A standard socket will be OK as long as you can hold the clutch basket, I use a electric rattle gun :laugh: Putting you plates back in the same order as they came out is best but not a biggy and you should soak your plates in oil prior to fitting o/night should do it. while the clutch is apart actuate the lever a few times and try and see if it is binding or has resistance. You should also check your springs free lengths make sure they are within spec,if they got hot they will have lost their tension and probably need replacing,hence I mentioned the complete kit

Ollie

[timMember]

SYCO check with the manual re putting the plates back in just to be sure they were in properly in the first place, do as Ollie says, measure the fibre plates, springs and check the steel plates as per the manual, dosen’t take much of a warp in all the steels to cause binding in the clutch

Also be careful with the clutch fingers, don’t wedge anything in them to hold it while you undo the nut, many people have done this and busted the fingers off, rattle gun is best both off and on if you don’t have the correct tools

[CarlMember]

I have messure all the fibre plates and they all read 2.9 exept one is 2.8. The Manual says 2.6 limit. The springs messured up at 45.5 but oine was 44.5. Limit is 43.1 so I am guessing it is all fine there. I have nothing that I know is 100% flat so not sure how I can messure my steel plates. Do you need to soak the fibre plates even if I put the old ones back in? I have pulled the lever a few times but can’t really see what is wrong. What is the best way to hold onto the centre clutch to undo the lock nut with out damaging the centre clutch? Was going to throw a ringing around one of the spring mounts but not sure if it will snap off, appears to be only cast alloy so bit weak I’d say. Could the grooves in the basket fingers cause the clutch to not operate properly?

[Author]

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