Clutch issues

[DeanMember]

you should soak your old plates as well. Do not use a ringy to hold your clutch it will snap. The grooves have to be fairly deep to cause any real drama,if hey arnt to bad and you havnt got the right tools or a rattle gun dont worry about removing it until you get them. You can use a piece of glass or mirror as a flat surface.

ollie

What was your oil like?

[alanMember]

yes the grooves in the cluch basket would efect it but easily fixed with a file am not good enough on the computer to draw you a picter .but you run the file across two slots at a time to get the right angle hopefully some one on here will explain it properly to you this will also make your clutch pull lighter.but it has to be done right think this will fix your problem

[CarlMember]

Thanks ollie and wr. Yeah the grooves aren’t too bad. More of a slight rolling groove than an actual cut in them if that makes any sence. I have a bloody 3/4 inch rattle gun but don’t have a 3/4 in female to 1/2 inch male adaptor for my sockets. Be investing in one next week I can tell you. Oil doesn’t look too bad but I layed her on her side because nothing is open to get new oil today. I’ll do that tomorrow aswell. On the fibre plates every third tooth has a little semi circle cut out on one side. Do they have to be lined up? Staggered? Facing the sdame way? They were all over the shop when I pulled them out. No order at all. But would it be better to have them sorted?

[alanMember]

be carefull doing it back up me personaly would not use 3/4 rattle gun to do it up but to undo is okay .think i would be giving the cluch basket a clean up but(the grooves) sounds like there is nothing else wrong with it.the clutch plates need to slide freely if not why bother taking the bascket of

[GregMember]

Hey from experience and owning a couple of XR600’s couple of XR 250’s and and XR650 dont buy cheap clutch plates they dont work fact we have tried it, Chicken still has trouble with his when hot.
I have run Motul 5100 in all my XR’s my old one has done over 45,000kms (its a 600 never touched) and is still going and this one has done 26,000+ kms. If you have yours running on LP Gas put gas oil in it if not why run gas oil?
File the fingers, soak your plates new or old for at least 12hrs before you fit it and check the steel plates like Ollie said.

TB

[timMember]

I would not worry about the semi circle things, never heard of them, just stagger them anyway, make sure you follow the manual in regards to steel, fibre plate placement, I think the steel goes in first then fibre and so on, once you have them all in and the pressure plate and springs all bolted in try the lever again, how much movement do you get, if you put your hand on top of the pressure plate and pull in the clutch lever you should feel say about 5mm of easy movement, that will prove that it is actuating far enough, so should be good

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Hey from experience and owning a couple of XR600’s couple of XR 250’s and and XR650 dont buy cheap clutch plates they dont work fact we have tried it, Chicken still has trouble with his when hot.
I have run Motul 5100 in all my XR’s my old one has done over 45,000kms (its a 600 never touched) and is still going and this one has done 26,000+ kms. If you have yours running on LP Gas put gas oil in it if not why run gas oil?
File the fingers, soak your plates new or old for at least 12hrs before you fit it and check the steel plates like Ollie said.

TB

Ok dont want an argument thats what wives are for :blink: The plates I recommended were EBC which are a good reputable brand also make decent brake pads ive been told As posted in various other threads every one has their own opinion on oil, I to have owned several XR’s (and still do) I found Penrite HPR15 Gas very good and well priced it is recommended by the australian manufacturer as being suitable for motorcycles. I am sure that Motul 5100 is also a good oil. I think that $100 dollars for a complete Quality clutch set delivered is a good price,it just takes that guessing out of the equation especially if you are not sure about the springs and steel plates.

My 2 bobs

Ollie

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Hey from experience and owning a couple of XR600’s couple of XR 250’s and and XR650 dont buy cheap clutch plates they dont work fact we have tried it, Chicken still has trouble with his when hot.
I have run Motul 5100 in all my XR’s my old one has done over 45,000kms (its a 600 never touched) and is still going and this one has done 26,000+ kms. If you have yours running on LP Gas put gas oil in it if not why run gas oil?
File the fingers, soak your plates new or old for at least 12hrs before you fit it and check the steel plates like Ollie said.

TB

Ok dont want an argument thats what wives are for :blink: The plates I recommended were EBC which are a good reputable brand also make decent brake pads ive been told As posted in various other threads every one has their own opinion on oil, I to have owned several XR’s (and still do) I found Penrite HPR15 Gas very good and well priced it is recommended by the australian manufacturer as being suitable for motorcycles. I am sure that Motul 5100 is also a good oil. I think that $100 dollars for a complete Quality clutch set delivered is a good price,it just takes that guessing out of the equation especially if you are not sure about the springs and steel plates.

My 2 bobs

Ollie

Ollie calm down your cheap consciences is getting ahead of you mate , sounds good I meant cheap as in cheap mate you see cheap no name kits around was talking about them. That price for and EBC is good and EBC is a good brand and a whole kit is real good.

Gas oil well we agree to disagree here my friend if that’s OK I am sure the gas stuff does a good job as you have proven

Ollie I dont want an argument either cause you will be wrong :laugh: :laugh:

TB

[alanMember]

cluches are overated i reckon if there not slippen just sendem .keep it up Ollie and TB its all good entertainment

[DeanMember]

Ollie I dont want an argument either cause you will be wrong :laugh: :laugh:

TB[/quote]

yep Ok :blink:

Rocket Bite me :laugh: I guess im pissed off at having a great ride ruined by 1 person.see my new thread I just posted

Ollie

[CarlMember]

Thanks all for your help.
So I borrowed a rattle gun from a mate and pulled the basket off. I filed all the fingers smooth then give it all a good clean with crc then compressed air. I noticed on the back of the clutch center and on the front of the basket there is a real rough area and at closer inspection it appears to be tiny little fractures, kind of looks like crows feet in paint work. They don’t go all the way through and look superficial but thought I’d mention it. Could it just be from bad casting and not cleaning the cast up properly? Should I give this area a light rub with some fine emery to remove the rough feel? Also on the back of the clutch center there apears to be two one inch welds on it. Very fine weld. Is this normal?
When it comes to soaking the fibre plates does it have to be in the 20w-50 oil or just any motor oil? Like to soak them tonight but only have cheap oil for my old work car. Also I read some where else about giving the fibre plates a light sanding to roughen them up a bit before soaking them, is this recomended?
Hey Tim I did what you said and tested the clutch lever before I pulled all the plates out and it did seem to travel 5mm. I’ll check the steel plates in a while but they do all seem fine, exept the 3rd one that is discoloured, doesn’t look warped but the colour is defenatly from heat. When it comes to doing every thing back up do you torque them to proper spec or just do them up? Don’t have torque wrench, might be able to borrow one tomorrow though if need be. Could the problem be the actual lever arm into the box?

[CarlMember]

The oil I have here is “Gulf Western Oil” HVX Motor Oil 20W-50 SJ/CF for pasanger cars, LPG and light diesel powered engines prior to 2001
Would that be ok to soak them in?

[drewMember]

no, unless it says ‘Non friction modified’ on the bottle.

someone can correct me if i’m wrong ( what’s new!)

but never use a car oil unless it has on the bottle non friction modified.

the friction modified stuff is not suited for oil bathed clutched as in bikes, it will cause them to slip and dose the plates in real quick.

Edit, i cannot find that particular oil on their site, i also googled it and could not come up with any specs on it either.

i would err on the safe side and use a bike specific oil, or one that has a list/chart of what car oil you can use like penrite have.

[CarlMember]

Thanks for that xy. I have looked on the container and can’t see the non friction modified on it any where. I’ll just have to wait till tomorrow and get some proper oil.
I might also change the oil filter while I’m at it if it needs it. Is there any way to tell if it is really needed or not or should I just change it for piece of mind?

[timMember]

Change the oil filter for piece of mind, while you have the clutch cover off i think there is a oil strainer in the bottom of the sump,check it.

If the clutch is actuating like you say it, that has basically proved the actuating side of things is fine, sounds more like the steel plates are warped, if all are slightly warped the combinded amount could cause your problem, it is common to see one or two steels to be discoloured (bluey) the outer most steels on my Berg are always the blue ones.
The clutch nut should be torqued up, but most just do it up with the rattle gun back to where it was when it was removed, use a bit of loctite 243 and bend the tabs back over on the lock washer
did you check out possible other causes of your original problem, ie; brakes sticking, wheel bearings

[Author]

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