Clutch issues

[CarlMember]

Thanks Tim. I before I even posted here I thought that it may have been something to do with that as I had fixed the rear puncture the day before but in nutueral there was no issue at all. If I left it in gear and pulled the clutch and tried to kick her she would move forward like in gear. Oh and also forgot I checked all the steel plates on a piece of glass and they are all seem good, even the discoloured plate however the manual says limit of 0.01 inch but my smallest feeler gauge I have says 0015(0.04) but I couldn’t get that under any where but there is still room for error. Should I go out and try to get a 0.01 gauge first just to make sure?
I’m starting to think it may have just been the oil. I will put it all back together and then see what happens, if nothing has changed I’ll change my oil.
Oh and I had checked the screen yeterday aswell, there was three little bits of crud on there. Not metal, just felt and looked like bits of old oil or something as it was soft.

[timMember]

yep put it back together, shuffle all the plates up and put them back in, but in the right order,(friction, steel, friction,….) that has worked before for me on an old yamaha, change the oil, she will hopefully be good!!

OH don’t over tighten the bolts holding the springs, easy to bust the alloy posts

[CarlMember]

I have the fibre plates soaking at the moment and was just looking that the manual and noticed that when I pulled the clutch apart there isn’t a “thrust” washer between the basket and clutch center. I would take it that this would be an issue as the clutch center wouldn’t be traveling as far as it should wen engaged. Is that some thing I can purchase by itself?

[CarlMember]

What would the thickness be of the thrust washer? When I pulled her apart there was the lock nut then a washer (fairly thick) then the centre then the basket. There is defenately no thrust washer there.

[timMember]

you should be able to buy it, sure it is not stuck to the back of the clutch centre, they can stick on pretty well, the basket and centre would have been binding together badly.

[timMember]

just so i understand what you are looking at, are you locking at the clutch picture from the manual i sent you, on my picture you can quite easily see the difference between the washer under the lock nut and the thrust washer

[CarlMember]

No mate there is nothing on the back of the clutch center. Just a ware mark that is exactly the same diameter as the star looking piece in the basket that is held on py a circlip.

[CarlMember]

Yeah you can see the difference in my manual, and the washer that is under the lock nut is just a standard washer. Definetly no thrust washer there at all. Also didn’t get the manual you sent as I already have two on my pc that are identical but named differently.

[timMember]

sounds like you found the problem, the centre and basket need to be apart somewhat, i would think the thrust washer would be only a couple of mm thick, without it your clutch would be binding just as you said, have you got something (just to experiment) you can put in there, so you can loosly put it back together to see if it fixes the problem (without starting)as you will probably have to order the correct thrust washer.
your oil filter will be full of metal

[timMember]

can you pull the basket out, maybe the dill put the thrust washer under the basket

[CarlMember]

Yeah you can see the difference in my manual, and the washer that is under the lock nut is just a standard washer. Definetly no thrust washer there at all. Also didn’t get the manual you sent as I already have two on my pc that are identical but named differently.

[CarlMember]

Sorry Tim didn’t see your last post. Pulled the basket off again and defenetly not there either. I rang the local bike shop and I’ll have one Thursday morning. You wouldn’t know if there is a thrust washer from a newer bike or other brand that would fit so I don’t have to wait till thursday?

[CarlMember]

The oil I got for her was 25W-50 Castrol for large bore motorcycles. I wanted 20w-50 but they only had 10w-40 and 15w-50 or one cheap brand that was 20w-50 but the guy said that the other stuff would be fine. Thought the known brand would be better, should that stuff be ok or too thick? I read somewhere that the W actualy means winter and not weight like I had thought and that the lower number is suppose to be a general teprature or something, is this correct? On our coolest days it is still in the low 20’s if that helps at all.

[drewMember]

yes the ‘W’ is the winter or cold temp viscosity of the oil.

the viscosity changes with temp, if it is too thick on start up, it will not do it’s job properly until it reaches operating temp. which leads to either premature ware.

however if your oil is a little thicker? not quite right wording, but say you have 20w-50 and it’s 5ºc out side dose not mean you cannot start it, it just pays to worm it up more than normal before riding it.

the same goes for cars, if you have a higher ‘W’ weight than the temp out side it means you need to warm up more than normal, before feeding it loads of throttle/revs and or load.

hopefully TB or the like can clear up anything in my explanation that may not be 100% explained right, or ill informed.

[CarlMember]

Cheers xy. So the 25w -50 should be fine for here then. Pain in the rear that I have to wait till thursday befor getting her back together but you get that with living in smaller towns.

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