DR400 Cylinder head removal, a D.I.Y for everyone

This topic contains 19 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Greg 13 years, 9 months ago.

Viewing 5 posts - 16 through 20 (of 20 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #200349

    John
    Member

    Bloody good stuff. ;)

    Only problem is i have around 10,000 k’s to go before i have to do it. 😆

    Thanks for taking the time to do these DIY pieces.

    #200350

    Greg
    Member
    Krusty wrote:
    snowy09 wrote:
    Ok TB my stupid question for the day. Apart from the bike not wanting to start cold, is there anything else that would cause me to have to go through all this to check the clearances. Or put another way, if I have no problems starting I take it I should just leave the clearances alone and not worry?

    Look here Snowy… http://www.obtrailriders.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=72&id=92957&Itemid=75

    Jsut ignore my ugly mug :laugh: :laugh:

    Damn I forgot I even made that video :blink:

    There you go Snow ;)

    TB

    #200311

    Greg
    Member

    Cont.

    I whipped the head down to Teknik’s has they do cylinder heads as well unknown to most. Nick stripped the head straight away and put the head in the hot wash while he bead blasted the valves so we could inspect them.

    Removing the valves

    IMGP0817640x480.jpg

    Cam, buckets and collets

    IMGP0818640x480.jpg

    Nick bead blasting the valves for inspection

    IMGP0824640x480.jpg

    It’s very hard to show the valves and the wear with a little camera

    IMGP0822640x480.jpg

    IMGP0821640x480.jpg

    IMGP0832640x480.jpg

    The sealing face should be flat, as you can see it had beaded and is dished

    The valves seats below should be flat like the valve face should but isn’t, naturally if the valve face is dished the seat it’s wearing partner will be the same. The camera doesn’t show it but the seats are rounded.

    IMGP0828640x480.jpg

    The other component of interest is the automatic decompression setup on the exhaust cam and how it works seen here on the exhaust cam

    IMGP0815640x480.jpg

    IMGP0816640x480.jpg

    A video on how it actually works, the speed it throws the weight out and stops opening the exhaust valve is about 700rpm

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp5hCMnMTtg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

    Sorry for the delay as I took the head down there the day i took the head off but have been flat out and hadn’t loaded the video etc

    More when I get the head back and put it back together

    TB

    #200308

    Clive Carre
    Member

    Mate
    I’m just blown away by all this, I joined old bulls to ride with blokes who share my passion but now know how to strip my DRZ 400 head down, drink Bundy and bullshit around camp fires:ohmy: TB thanks once again mate, not only for doing the job for me but also taking time out to show everyone else how it’s done.I’ll buy you some bundys on our next trip and promise not to drop your pants in front of folk singers ever again:woohoo: Well only for the next trip anyway !!:evil:
    Cheers Mate Fish

    #200316

    Greg
    Member

    Well the DR has been put back together and is running like a dream. If wants to under take the same job I am more than happy to assist with instructions, tensions or whatever is needed.

    Tekink’s did the cylinder head work, it included new valves (Kibbell valves better than standard) seats and all required machining work. They shimed the buckets and set all the clearances so the head was ready to fit. They also supplied the top end gasket kit for just over 400 bucks all up ;)

    TB

Viewing 5 posts - 16 through 20 (of 20 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.