Electrical Problems

[GregMember]

Pm sending now Al

[shaneMember]

In ‘e noice?

Fairdinkum TB I reckon I can see your halo shine from way up here!:laugh:

[GregMember]

old al wrote:

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Thanks TB. Let me know where to send it and I will get it away straight away.

old al

Done all good Al, will have a play on Thursday or Friday depending on how quick it fronts shouldn’t be an issue from experience
I will enjoy the tinker

TB

[GregMember]

Post or courier Al?

[Anonymous]

Trailboss wrote:

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Post or courier Al?

I will stick it in the post TB. No great rush to get it back. I will do the valves while I have plenty of room on top of the engine.

old al

[shaneMember]

Any chance of doing it on the weekend and teaching an old bloke some stuff?

[GregMember]

shane_vor wrote:

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Any chance of doing it on the weekend and teaching an old bloke some stuff?

Sorry Shane its done

[GregMember]

Al,

I rewired your harness today, what a mess :ohmy: Problem was a headlight power rubbed through to an earth thus creating a direct short, this heated the wires for the charging circuit and melted them together causing all sorts of dramas, but didn’t take out the two glass fuses that are in parallel as well as the spade fuse you spoke about in the first post :huh: :huh: :blink: ???

I will PM you my number pls give me a ring tomorrow (am going to crusty demons tonight)

I have sent it back TNT freight you should have it Monday mate

TB

[Anonymous]

Tremendous Greg. The two glass fuses were untouched and the plastic on the 20A “main” fuse was melted. I assumed the fusible link under the plastic was blown but I don’t know as I threw the thing away.

Thanks again.

old al

[Dwayne OMember]

Nice Work there TB,
Old Bull Spirit shining thry & thru;)
Thats what makes this group so good,,,,,,,,,,,

[dennis da menaceMember]

glass fuses were in parallel???????

thats wierd….wouldnt that mean twice the current to blow one and even then it would still flow current through the other one???

what were the glass fuse ratings compared to the blade fuse??

if they were all the same, that would be a problem from the start….

were the blade fuse terminals dirty TB? bad connections mean resistance and resistance means heat especially with a high current dead short!!:blink:

i love magic smoke to me it smells like money……
being a sparky and all:laugh: :laugh:

[Dwayne OMember]

MENACE “i love magic smoke to me it smells like money……
being a sparky and all”

I thought you were a SUPERHERO buddy:P

[dennis da menaceMember]

only part time my good man;) :laugh: :laugh:

[Anonymous]

The fuses of the KLX250 as described by the Cyclepedia workshop manual.

“The electric start KLX250s have a main fuse (check this if none of the electrical systems work) and two sub-fuses, one for the lighting system and one for the cooling fan system. Fuses are designed to protect the wiring harness and other electrical components from damage. If any electrical systems don’t work, one of the first things to check are the fuses.

Main Fuse

If none of the electrical systems work, check the 20 amp blade type main fuse.

The main fuse is located on the side of the starter solenoid. Remove the main fuse and see if it is blown, replace as necessary. A blown main fuse indicates a short circuit that must be located and corrected.

If none of the lights work, check the 10 amp 30 mm long glass type lighting fuse.

If the cooling fan does not work, check the 10 amp 30 mm long glass type cooling fan fuse.”

Obviously something did not work to protect my wiring. It was really fried.

old al

[dennis da menaceMember]

your pretty luck it didnt burn to the ground Al….and take your house with it

[Author]

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