Gasser 450 boiling a bit

[Neil JohnsonMember]

Out riding yesterday my bike “percolated” a couple of times when caught in tight stuff or stuck on hills.

Bloke I was with recommended the “engine ice” coolant, and I’ve been reading up on it a bit with mixed reports.

I should point out that it didn’t pop the cap and overflow, just bubbled a bit till I got going again and the level is fine before and after the ride. Thermo fan is working fine it seems.

I’m even considering using Toyota super long life coolant which I run in my Hilux and always have handy, as I have never had a Hilux overheat.

Any suggestions?

[DeanMember]

MLC I use this in my Gasser 300 both the old one and the newer one previous owner must of had issues as well. Works great have never boiled it. About $38 a litre (so you will need two)

The aussie ISDE team use this as well. (at least thats what Mr Ballard says)

You could also try a higher rated cap say 1.6 bar or go to the chinese made radiators which have a heap more capacity. I fitted the chinese ones to my XR650R and it stopped the boiling in the city traffic.

Ollie

[GregMember]

Save your money MLC. Try this first mate, when your stuck or stopped turn your engine off straight away don’t let it idle for extended periods. Even with a standard cap this will work, (although a higher cap will help raise the boiling point it doesn’t stop the engine overheating) the bike needs to be moving to cool. As for the fancy coolants, yeah they increase the point temp no doubt but they don’t stop the engine and it’s internals getting hot do they? And while the fancy coolant doesn’t boil (maybe at 125 degrees) the engine internals are getting hotter than they can with stand safely. In that case the boiling or steam can be a good warning.
Talk with Mick D he had his XR boil a few times and turning it of instead of letting it idle was the best thing he changed and I did the same when I got my 650.

Always wash your radiators out when you wash the bike, and wash them from the rear towards the front of the bike.

Both the 530 and 650’s did what your bike did until we did the above, and the ice coolant Steve bought is still here unused. The other thing with ice is if you have to top up on the track for whatever reason if you don’t have ice coolant you have the change it all out again when you get home.

Just my experience and opinion.

TB

[DeanMember]

Liquid Intelligence 115 best and cheapest thing I did to stop my overheating. The highest temp I have seen on my bike is 92 degrees. (no fan to assist)

Here is the website with all of the blurb

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

Ollie

[Nathan HeatherMember]

Ollie wrote:

Liquid Intelligence 115 best and cheapest thing I did to stop my overheating. The highest temp I have seen on my bike is 92 degrees. (no fan to assist)

Here is the website with all of the blurb

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

Ollie

My neighbour uses that also and since doing so has stopped the boiling.

[Chris NicholsonMember]

Take the bike to a dealer that has the correct equipment to tune your bike. It is computer controlled and if it is getting hot it is probably running hot. Peg Leg had a similar problem with his 450 Gas Gas, it was all in the tuning.

[BrettMember]

Your engine cooling system is designed around the fact that it has “Air Flowing Through the Radiator Cores” (MOVING FORWARD) hence why when you had bigger or different radiators you are increasing the surface area for the heat to transfer to the atmosphere .
By increasing the boiling point of the coolant that just increases the stress on the engine i.e. lessens the clearances of moving parts ( piston to barrel ).
On a high revving, high performance late model engine that is the last thing I would want!!!!
At no point does the manufacturer state its ok to leave bike idling at normal operating temperature.
The cooling systems of modern engines are only just big enough to do there job, there is no extra % factored in like engines of old, because it is all extra weight extra parasitic load on the engine taking valuable H/Power.
Even trickling a little water of the cores will make a HUGE difference, to the pressure and temperature drop across the cores, but you can’t really do that
SH&T it is electric start, switch the thing OFF.
Yes check the mixture to make sure it is not to lean via mapping or jets.
Its not broken don’t f&*K with it
K Keep
I It
S Simple
S Stupid

works fine for most people

[DeanMember]

Chicken wrote:

Your engine cooling system is designed around the fact that it has “Air Flowing Through the Radiator Cores” (MOVING FORWARD) hence why when you had bigger or different radiators you are increasing the surface area for the heat to transfer to the atmosphere .
By increasing the boiling point of the coolant that just increases the stress on the engine i.e. lessens the clearances of moving parts ( piston to barrel ). Have to disagree there Chicken With Glycol/water yes this is true, with Liquid intelligence No. with LI 115 The boiling point may be higher,but the temperature of the coolant will still be much cooler and efficiant at transferring heat than the Traditional Glycol/water mix.
On a high revving, high performance late model engine that is the last thing I would want!!!! I agree !! thats why I use LI 115 :laugh:
At no point does the manufacturer state its ok to leave bike idling at normal operating temperature.
The cooling systems of modern engines are only just big enough to do there job, there is no extra % factored in like engines of old, because it is all extra weight extra parasitic load on the engine taking valuable H/Power.
Even trickling a little water of the cores will make a HUGE difference, to the pressure LI 115 runs at zero pressure so a lot less stress is placed on the engine and temperature drop across the cores, but you can’t really do that
SH&T it is electric start, switch the thing OFF.
Yes check the mixture to make sure it is not to lean via mapping or jets.
Its not broken don’t f&*K with it
K Keep
I It
S Simple
S Stupid

cant be any simpler than changing the coolant

works fine for most people

I would suggest take your bike for a ride and monitor the engine temps, then change your coolant to LI 115 and ride the same area again, try and keep all variables the same, monitor your temps. I think you will be pleasantly surprised

let us know how you go

Ollie

[Mick DMember]

Just thought I might add for consideration is that the bike was making espresso machine noises at the top of the run to Comboyne Rock. Although no coolant was going into the catch tanks,however it was bubbling. There by rights should have been ample air flow to keep it cool on that run as the average speed would have been at least 40-50kms.

[DeanMember]

micknmeld wrote:

Just thought I might add for consideration is that the bike was making espresso machine noises at the top of the run to Comboyne Rock. Although no coolant was going into the catch tanks,however it was bubbling. There by rights should have been ample air flow to keep it cool on that run as the average speed would have been at least 40-50kms.

might pay to check the water pump impeller as well as the tune

Ollie

another thought : does the 450 have a thermostat ?

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

micknmeld wrote:

Just thought I might add for consideration is that the bike was making espresso machine noises at the top of the run to Comboyne Rock. Although no coolant was going into the catch tanks,however it was bubbling. There by rights should have been ample air flow to keep it cool on that run as the average speed would have been at least 40-50kms.

might pay to check the water pump impeller as well as the tune

Ollie

another thought : does the 450 have a thermostat ?

If there was pressure releasing (the espresso noise :huh: ) the cap would be the first thing to TEST. And if its a new bike and is injected Storky’s point is very valid and shouldnt be over looked as the requirement for ADR may just have it very lean

Just reread the whole thing, get the cap tested for sure sounds like it isnt holding pressure. Check under the rubber or on the seat for some grud not letting it seat/seal

TB

[Neil JohnsonMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Ollie wrote:

micknmeld wrote:

Just thought I might add for consideration is that the bike was making espresso machine noises at the top of the run to Comboyne Rock. Although no coolant was going into the catch tanks,however it was bubbling. There by rights should have been ample air flow to keep it cool on that run as the average speed would have been at least 40-50kms.

might pay to check the water pump impeller as well as the tune

Ollie

another thought : does the 450 have a thermostat ?

If there was pressure releasing (the espresso noise :huh: ) the cap would be the first thing to TEST. And if its a new bike and is injected Storky’s point is very valid and shouldnt be over looked as the requirement for ADR may just have it very lean

Just reread the whole thing, get the cap tested for sure sounds like it isnt holding pressure. Check under the rubber or on the seat for some grud not letting it seat/seal

TB

Cheers for that.

It’s definitely not loosing any coolant, but yes it does have some dried coolant crap around the cap.

Might give that Liquid Intelligence stuff a go…the web page looks a bit trixie though.

Many people having much luck with that one?

[GregMember]

MLC wrote:

Trailboss wrote:

Ollie wrote:

micknmeld wrote:

Just thought I might add for consideration is that the bike was making espresso machine noises at the top of the run to Comboyne Rock. Although no coolant was going into the catch tanks,however it was bubbling. There by rights should have been ample air flow to keep it cool on that run as the average speed would have been at least 40-50kms.

might pay to check the water pump impeller as well as the tune

Ollie

another thought : does the 450 have a thermostat ?

If there was pressure releasing (the espresso noise :huh: ) the cap would be the first thing to TEST. And if its a new bike and is injected Storky’s point is very valid and shouldnt be over looked as the requirement for ADR may just have it very lean

Just reread the whole thing, get the cap tested for sure sounds like it isnt holding pressure. Check under the rubber or on the seat for some grud not letting it seat/seal

TB

Cheers for that.

It’s definitely not loosing any coolant, but yes it does have some dried coolant crap around the cap.

Might give that Liquid Intelligence stuff a go…the web page looks a bit trixie though.

Many people having much luck with that one?

Looks a bit trixie :laugh: :laugh: I like that because as I read the page it seemed like way to many testimonials for my liking. I mean really if it’s that good why do we need some many people saying its great and besides I could count at least two independent people that I know weren’t paying for it

But hey if the people selling it are saying it’s that good it must be :whistle:

I rang a mate a performance engine builder last night about this and his words were basically these coolants will help, and if you have a boiling problem that is marginal (close but not quite right) it will help and can sometimes be the balance but it isn’t the be all and end all.

You make your mind up, I have two unopened tins you are welcome to, the fact that you can’t add water if needed without contaminating it and a new cap and not letting the bike idle fixed the problems we had means I have them here. I can drop them up near you in a few weeks if you want.

I think the cap will fix your problem (and have the mapping checked)

TB

[DeanMember]

Hmmm im still thinking thermostat :unsure: my reasons are if the thermostat is stuck in the closed or partially closed or water cold position the engine will heat up when under load or no air flow,that is why the coolant expansion tank is not getting any coolant.
If the cap was buggered im thinking it has to be stuck ie it wont open up to allow the excess pressure to escape :unsure: happy to be corrected on that one :cheer:

Id be checking the cap,thermostat and water pump and tune and probably in that order

TB If MLC doesnt want your coolant I will :laugh:

Ollie

MLC the LI 115 has a full satisfaction guarantee

[PaulMember]

My DRZ used to overheat in the slower stuff, mainly 1st & 2nd gear singles with standard coolant.

Changed to Engine Ice, no dramas now.

Paul

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