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The gear oil that you have is Fine Razzle
Suzuki recommend 20/50 wt engine oil in the rmx :laugh: Ive used diesel engine oil,Castrol MTX, Auto transmission fluid and am currently using an ELF gear oil in the Gasgas.
Ollie
axel wrote:Spot on from the others. I would use what you purchased without a second thought. Different bikes like different viscosity. I stick to motorcycle oils.yep i second axel that oil would be fine
Like the others said
Moto’s right friction modifiers can mess with your clutch but you don’t see it much now days because of shared transmission and engine compartments that cars and bikes have has seen oil modifiers change over the last few years . He is also right about the detergents in diesel oil, its good in a dirty combustion diesel but have seen it ruin a few petrol engines (ones with a few miles on already) when switched over and the detergents clean the engine and jam the oil rings up and the engine uses oil. Seen it block an oil filter between Newcastle and Ourimbah. Have seen fibre clutch plates also become gummed up because detergents cleaned the transmission cases the crap had to get absorbed somewhere and in the fibre plates it went. If ran from new its ok like Moto said
IMO got an auto gearbox run auto oil, its made for it. Yes, its designed for higher temps and loads like Moto said then a bike gearbox will ever get to but it isn’t designed for sliding dog style transmissions, auto gear sets are always engaged. All that said lots of people have and do use auto oil without a problem. Berg don’t make oil so if they recommend an oil it’s so their product performs well I would think then everyones happy :blink: .
I have seen many a failure over the years in my job because of incorrect lubricates used, people that seem to think they know better than the people that developed and produced the product especially when I worked at Cat (bloody plant operators eh Pete! :laugh: ). Normally its because people think they are saving money, funny thing is if it’s a bike you would save fark all over a year. Anyway I was taught that oil is cheap and engines, gearboxes, diffs, final drives, hydraulics etc are expensive so thats my dribble.I run Moterex in the two stroke gearboxes here at home, expensive but I cant get the bloody kids to use the clutch once they get moving :pinch:
TB
I dislike Motorex because when you compare it’s properties to other top level oils that are cheaper it comes out worse off. It’s not a secret KTM are in bed with Motorex, it’s a good oil but it has been subjected to KTM pricing strategy and its just not worth the dollars they ask for it.
As mentioned above using a $10 or $20 cheaper 4L oil represents a puny saving over a years use that it negates buying something cheap. However, there are a few oils that are better AND cheaper than Motorex, so if you’re in this camp why wouldn’t you?
There’s so much hype about oils it isn’t funny, you’d be surprised at the oils a 75MW (around 100,000 horsepower) gas or steam turbine will use spinning at 4,000rpm. The thing weighss hundreds of tons and is several metres long. It isn’t super special high grade shizz and the lube is so important to their operation they have their own lube oil pump and valve trains.
Oils are a minefield, it’s one of the areas where cost does not necessarily mean its better. Look at Penrite HPR Gas10 developed for LPG vehicles, it’s one of the best oils you can buy in just about any area of comparison. Heaps of people in the know use it and it’s not even ‘rated for motorcycle use’.
Realistically, unless you’re using snake oil you’d be hard pressed to see a big difference for a while anyway. The difference between average oils and decent ones is only really evident after 10’s of thousands of KM’s anyway, long after we have gotten rid of them (unless your TB and you just cant let Honda go despite riding a Yamaha and a KTM
)Manufacturers obviously know their stuff, but does that mean everything they say/recommend is with the best performance intentions of your bike? If you bought a new bike and didn’t make any changes you’d be running 14/45 gearing for ADR compliance, shocking jetting on a 2 banger, not even the best fuelling on a FI 4 banger, crappy tires, springs suited to a 13 year anorexic Asian schoolgirl and an exhaust that restricts power, builds heat and reduces throttle response all in the name of reducing noise. Not to mention air box restrictors, throttle stops, standard duty tubes, 98 RON petrol etc etc, no thanks!
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