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AnonymousWhen I installed the Rekluse autoclutch on my wr450f, I didn’t purchase the external clutch adjuster, which utilises the existing clutch lever mechanism. This being the case, I was able to completely remove the lever, bracket and clutch cable, as they aren’t used anymore with my Rekluse configuration. ie, I don’t have a clutch over-ride setup. Note that other brand bikes that have hydraulic clutch actuation, can still use this setup as an over-ride for the Rekluse.
I had read elsewhere that it was possible to install a hand operated rear brake, as opposed to using the footbrake lever. This in theory, would allow you to brakeslide into corners bothways, whilst extending the leg forward for balance, weight transfer etc. With a footbrake, you can really only perform this into left hand turns. The handbrake also allows much better feel of the rear brake, than than offered by a foot in a big leather boot.
The solution required sourcing a master cylinder for the lhs of the bars. The answer is a clutch master cylinder. The problem with this selection is that the seals in this style of cylinder are designed for mineral based hydraulic oil and not glycol-based brake fluids. Brake fluid destroys the seals. The way around this is to use DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid.
I removed the foot lever and master cylinder and existing rear brake line from the frame. I then had a custom made s/s braided line made up with suitable fittings for the slave cylinder and the Maugura clutch master cylinder that I ended up using for this project. I routed the new brake line in and along the frame to the rear slave cylinder, taking care to keeping it away from the exhaust system. In places where it was a bit close, I wrapped the line in some heat reflective tape.
DOT 5 and other glycol-based DOT 4 fluids are NOT compatible. It is extremely important to flush out the system before using the new modified brake setup. I used metho to do the initial flush, followed by forcing through some silicone fluid. Trying to get the fluid into an empty line and cylinders was a prick of a job. I thought it would simply be a case of pouring the fluid into the master cylinder resevoir and just keep pumping and topping it up, until it came out of the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. WRONG!!
I conservatively say that I spent 90 mins trying to do it by this method with no success. I eventually put a length of clear plastic tube on the slave cylinder nipple, and physically sucked on the tube until the fluid was visibly coming through the nipple. Once I was happy that I had flushed the system, it was simply a matter of bleeding the brakes as normal, until a firm lever pressure was attained.
I am by no means a “gun” rider nor have done much riding with the new setup, but the rear brake has good “feel” and the rear tyre can be locked if required using just two fingers. It did take some getting used to initially, as one tends to grab a handful of clutch when downshifting a couple of gears. It becomes just like riding a pushbike with both brake levers on the bars.
I made a small bracket so I could still utilise part of the original clutch lever bracket to mount the hotstart lever
WARNING If you regularly ride a road going bike, I highly suggest that you DON’T do this modification. This is because of the possibility of getting used to not using the foot lever etc.The costs involved were as follows:
Magura clutch master cylinder – $220
Custom made brake line with fittings – $125
500ml bottle Shell DOT 5 silicon fluid -$22Down the track, I am looking to figure out how to have both the brake and a clutch over-ride lever on the bars.
Here are some pics of the setup, but I will get some more of the brakeline and stuff later.
You can see in this pic where I mount one of my tyre levers
Anonymous
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