Hi There, new to site no bike yet but looking…

[AlexMember]

Registration is definitely a must. It raises another point too, registration cost of the bigger bikes.
The DRZ4 is a very friendly bike and because your right into road bikes it will probably seem light to you?
Also coming from the road you would probably enjoy riding the DRZ where you wouldn’t normally take the roadie, dirt roads, fire trails etc. Bring a backpack and do some weekends away through the mountains. It’s all good fun and the DRZ should be able to handle a mix of road as well as dirt. My example here in my opinion is not suited to 2 strokes as they generally hate riding road sections. It really depends on what you will find “fun”. Old school 4 strokes like open spaces, 2 strokes like to live amongst the tight trees, newer 4 strokes like somewhere in between. You won’t look back!

[BillMember]

Allen945 an old mechanic told me once tits or wheels and you are guaranted hassels

every brand has good and bad points

bludge as many rides as you can also try for a demo as some of the bike shops have them and test days before you buy one that way you know what you want and wont end up on a pig you dont like that someone thinks is gold

[Jason GreenMember]

welcome mate I just joined this site a few days ago If you wan,t a drz400 check out the http://www.manheimfowles.com.au sometimes the cops auction them off

[PaulMember]

I am thinking the DRZ 400 is the go except they are physically a big bike, try sitting/standing on one to see if it’s too tall.
Even try a new one in a show room, they haven’t changed much over the years.

[Allan MccubbenMember]

Ok so now I thinking it is a toss up between DRZ400E or a 250F?

Can so one tell the difference between CRF250X and a CRF250F?

WR250F Yamaha is the other high on the list, what sort of service costs would I be up for if riding 1-2 times a month?

the feedback is great, so thanks.

[glennMember]

Go the DRZ

[Eric SmithMember]

Allan954 wrote:

Quote:

Ok so now I thinking it is a toss up between DRZ400E or a 250F?

Can so one tell the difference between CRF250X and a CRF250F?

WR250F Yamaha is the other high on the list, what sort of service costs would I be up for if riding 1-2 times a month?

the feedback is great, so thanks.

Having owned and loved both the DRZ4 and a 250F, here are my thoughts:

Your height and weight shouldn’t be too much of an issue on either a DRZ4 or a 250F

DRZ – nice trail bike, able to do longer transport sections but quite capable in tight stuff with the right rider. They have good power, not world-beating, and are quite user-friendly. Needs new bars, taillight extender replaced, probably blinkers front & rear, ideally replace front headlight and derestrict the engine to be a decent off-road bike. However, at 90kg you will need to either buy a second hand DRZ with the suspension done for someone of similar weight, or allow about $650 to $1000 to get it sorted out for you. The springs are just too soft for a 90kg rider (like me). Excellent for fire trails, winding single track and can be muscled around tight and steep tracks, but it does take a lot out of the rider to do that.

WR250F – much more enduro based machine. The seat is harder, the bike is lighter and slimmer and generally better in the ergonomics department. Good bars, OK blinkers and taillight (although I have swapped my taillight extender and blinkers for smaller units). Not a lot has to be done to these to make them a good off-road bike. Power is actually fairly similar to the DRZ, but without that huge torque down low – it is still respectable, just not quite the same. Again, the suspension will need sorting for your weight (and mine). Excellent for tight and steep single track, not quite as full-on as a 2-stroke and in Erzberg type situations a 2T will win hands down each time.

I serviced my DRZ at the same interval I use for the WRF which is about 350km between oil/filter changes. I am also religious about keeping the air filter clean. Most blokes reckon a DRZ will be fine with longer intervals, that is a decision for you to make. I figured oil and filters are cheap compared to an engine rebuild! Oil is about $60 for 4 litres, a filter is (I think) about $10-$17 depending where you buy and you use 1.2 litres of oil per change. Depends on the km you do in a ride as to the frequency of the changes, mine are about every three months but I don’t get to ride much any more.

So there ya go, it will depend entirely on what you want to do with the bike. Given that you are getting back into riding I would recommend the DRZ simply because it is more things to more people, and can be used in the tough stuff in the right hands, while a WRF is not entirely happy doing open miles. It will do it, just not much fun!

RE the CRF, the X model is the enduro model and the R is the motocross model so no rego. The R model 250 has dual exhausts I believe, as well as no lights and minimal switch gear. The CRF will be very similar to my comments on the WRF, although I am not sure about the suspension needing to be done.

[TrentMember]

I know of a beaut KTM 250f that’s for sale if you’re interested

[AlexMember]

Good stuff Ecks. I agree. I wouldn’t rule out an XR400 either though. Or KLX250/300 DR250? I have a feeling electric start is influencing the decisions here….

[Eric SmithMember]

axel wrote:

Quote:

Good stuff Ecks. I agree. I wouldn’t rule out an XR400 either though. Or KLX250/300 DR250? I have a feeling electric start is influencing the decisions here….

Mmmm.. yes, but that’s not a bad thing! I remember a ride where the battery died on the WRF and I had to kick it all day. No problem when you are fresh but on the side of a hill when you are raspatoogered it becomes a whole different matter!

Good ride though! :laugh:

[Anonymous]

It’s worth noting that sorting suspension doesn’t have to cost the big dollars. Sure to do it properly and have it super smooth whilst still taking big hits is great, but it can be sorted reasonably well for considerably less.

I had my rear spring changed on my 450 for a firmer version and a bit more oil added to the front forks. This work alone would cost around $150 if you did the oil top up yourself.

I rode my bike round for a whole with it like that and my only major issue was the bottoming of the forks on slow hard landings. I mainly do grade 3-6 rides so I am quite sure the suspension is getting a work out.

It is better to get it done properly, but if you don’t have the cash (having just splashed out on a bike) then this can be a viable alternative…at least for the short term

PS – I weigh 96Kg.

[AlexMember]

I didn’t think you were that heavy Moto. I feel better now.

Although you do have a point you are also spoiled by the fact your 3 rides are designed to be the base/platform for race winning enduro bikes.

The DRZ as an example (Suzuki designed the suspension for the bike without the rider – marshmallow soft) will have better results when touched by an expert as apposed to your example which is fine tuning good suspension for your weight and experience. Know what I mean?

The point is yes you don’t need to spend alot of money if you don’t want to (or have it) to get an improved ride.

[Anonymous]

Yeah I’m with you. I’ve ridden a few banana’s and as standard they have terrible suspension for proper bush bashing. The seat is oh so comfy though

[Allan MccubbenMember]

Ok I think we are done here…DRZ400E looks like the smart choice, I will take a lot of shit from my road bike mates after all the Suzuki jokes over the years… Just waiting on a bonus (about 4-5 weeks)from work then I’m off shopping.

My Blade is over weight and under powered compared to people I ride with now so I guess it will be the same for my trailbike… Thanks for the advice and I hope to see you on a trailride soon. I will be looking to ride with you guys on here after all the help, can’t wait!

[Adrian LeeMember]

Moto wrote:

Quote:

It’s worth noting that sorting suspension doesn’t have to cost the big dollars. Sure to do it properly and have it super smooth whilst still taking big hits is great, but it can be sorted reasonably well for considerably less.

I had my rear spring changed on my 450 for a firmer version and a bit more oil added to the front forks. This work alone would cost around $150 if you did the oil top up yourself.

I rode my bike round for a whole with it like that and my only major issue was the bottoming of the forks on slow hard landings. I mainly do grade 3-6 rides so I am quite sure the suspension is getting a work out.

It is better to get it done properly, but if you don’t have the cash (having just splashed out on a bike) then this can be a viable alternative…at least for the short term

PS – I weigh 96Kg.

96kg your a big boy moto ! How tall are you?

[Author]

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