This topic contains 19 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by murph the surf 14 years, 5 months ago.
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November 14, 2010 at 9:16 pm #99159
Having a little trouble with my clutch not engaging all the way??
With lever to the handlebars engaging first trenches my lawn and bike wants to take off, also very clunky through the gears :ohmy:
Plenty of fluid in the resevoir
Any ideas??
Cheers
MurphNovember 14, 2010 at 9:28 pm #190738Murph the surf wrote:
Quote:Having a little trouble with my clutch not engaging all the way??
With lever to the handlebars engaging first trenches my lawn and bike wants to take off, also very clunky through the gears :ohmy:
Plenty of fluid in the resevoir
Any ideas??
Cheers
MurphTry bleeding it Murph, could have air in the system thus you won’t be getting full travel at the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch plates
Start with the simple things first
TB
November 14, 2010 at 9:36 pm #190744Will try and get around to doing that this arvo, might even flush it with new fluid
Cheers TB
MurphNovember 14, 2010 at 10:04 pm #190739Murph the surf wrote:
Quote:Having a little trouble with my clutch not engaging all the way??
With lever to the handlebars engaging first trenches my lawn and bike wants to take off, also very clunky through the gears :ohmy:
Plenty of fluid in the resevoir
Any ideas??
Cheers
MurphEveryone tells me it’s clutch drag, and that’s the way they are. Mine has done it since I’ve had it. I’m not convinced that it’s how it’s meant to be, but have had no issues yet. I wouldn’t have a clue what to look for or how to check ,baskets, plates etc. One day hopefully Tb is going to check/weave his magic for me(he just doesn’t know it yet) :laugh: :laugh:
http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic=404813&hl=
cheers Hatto
November 14, 2010 at 10:15 pm #190740When my clutch played up (air in fluid) it was the opposite. The clutch would not take up. It would be slipping all the time. I bled the system and all was fine. The new fluid was green the old stuff that came out was black. I guess I had got my monies worth out of it.
November 15, 2010 at 12:33 am #190747Hey Hatto
Couldn’t open the link, must be secret KTM business or something. I’ve had this 525 from new and yes it has always had a bit of “clutch drag” but it has just gotten a lot worse over the last couple of rides.
Bundyroy
My name should be Turkeyroy, not many of us Roy’s out there.
Would of thought with air in the system it would not engage the clutch fully giving it the severe “creep” that mine has at the moment. What you are saying with air in the system the clutch wouldn’t dissengage fully to give you proper drive. ie slipping
Seems strange :unsure:
Either way it will be bled this arvo. Any special tips in bleeding? I assume it would be like any other bleed job. Have never had to touch the hydraulic clutch on this Kato or the previous one
Cheers
MurphNovember 15, 2010 at 12:49 am #190755Reverse bleed with a big syringe from the VET mate. That way you can push all the system fluid through in one hit, way less chance of air getting in that way
I have been meaning to do a video on brake and clutch system reverse bleeding :dry:
TB
November 15, 2010 at 12:56 am #190757Was always going to get one of those big syringes, I guess now is my chance
Cheers
MurphNovember 15, 2010 at 1:25 am #190756Murph the surf wrote:
Quote:Hey Hatto
Couldn’t open the link, must be secret KTM business or something. I’ve had this 525 from new and yes it has always had a bit of “clutch drag” but it has just gotten a lot worse over the last couple of rides.
Bundyroy
My name should be Turkeyroy, not many of us Roy’s out there.
Would of thought with air in the system it would not engage the clutch fully giving it the severe “creep” that mine has at the moment. What you are saying with air in the system the clutch wouldn’t dissengage fully to give you proper drive. ie slipping
Seems strange :unsure:
Either way it will be bled this arvo. Any special tips in bleeding? I assume it would be like any other bleed job. Have never had to touch the hydraulic clutch on this Kato or the previous one
Cheers
MurphYou will have to join that forum to get to it
hatto
November 15, 2010 at 2:50 am #190758Murph,
What happened with mine is air in the line. Bike gets hot, air expands more than fluid and has the same effect as pulling on the clutch lever. It happened to me on the practice lap of the pony express. In the end all we did to get through the race was crack the bleed nipple (with some pressure on the clutch lever) and let a bit of fluid out and it was perfect for the race. It got bled before my next ride though. The blokes helping me at the pits said it looked like my fluid had been boiled. They also said that there are only a couple of things that can go wrong. Most common is fluid and bleeding will fix and the second was some seal in the system somewhere. I don’t profess to be a mechanic and I can’t remember where it was as I remember thinking it sounded expensive/hard to fix so I mentally blocked it out of my brain.
November 15, 2010 at 5:41 am #190768Don’t believe anyone who says “it’s a KTM thing they all do it” cause that’s poppycock, Bled and adjsted proerly with good plates and basket they are one of the best systems around.
A sign that you’ve not got it right yet is trying to get neutral while engine running.
Beecee
November 15, 2010 at 10:04 am #190741Hey Murf, take what’s written on the master cap serious. If it says Mineral you put mineral. If it’s brake fluid, put brake fluid. I’ve heard of KTM shops giving advice to use fork oil, for the love of… They don’t mix well. Damage to o-rings is real. Some owners that require mineral and don’t want to pay the $30 for Magura mineral have successfully used ‘another’ type of mineral fluid. Just shouldn’t use anything synthetic in that case. I think yours should be using DOT4 like later models.
November 15, 2010 at 9:09 pm #190800Well did the reverse bleed last night but still lays rubber on the concrete when first gear is selected. It did improve when the engine warmed up. Whilst on the stand (rear wheel in the air) there was no way I could stop the wheel from tuning with my hand :ohmy:
Didn’t take it for a ride due to inclement weather
Also changed rear wheel bearings, rear brake pads, front wheel bearings, front brake pads and dropped the LH fork leg ready to replace another bloody seal.
Will check v/v clearances and might even treat the old girl to a new plug.
Hope all will be well for the Coffs trip
Cheers
MurphNovember 15, 2010 at 9:15 pm #190804Murph the surf wrote:
Quote:Well did the reverse bleed last night but still lays rubber on the concrete when first gear is selected. It did improve when the engine warmed up. Whilst on the stand (rear wheel in the air) there was no way I could stop the wheel from tuning with my hand :ohmy:
Didn’t take it for a ride due to inclement weather
Also changed rear wheel bearings, rear brake pads, front wheel bearings, front brake pads and dropped the LH fork leg ready to replace another bloody seal.
Will check v/v clearances and might even treat the old girl to a new plug.
Hope all will be well for the Coffs trip
Cheers
MurphThats all good Murph but what about the clutch?? Could be worth laying it on its side and removing the side cover, checking the basket fingers for grooving and the plates. Something isnt allowing them the disengage be it lack of slave piston travel or mechanical
TB
November 15, 2010 at 9:40 pm #190805Trailboss wrote:
Quote:Murph the surf wrote:Quote:Well did the reverse bleed last night but still lays rubber on the concrete when first gear is selected. It did improve when the engine warmed up. Whilst on the stand (rear wheel in the air) there was no way I could stop the wheel from tuning with my hand :ohmy:
Didn’t take it for a ride due to inclement weather
Also changed rear wheel bearings, rear brake pads, front wheel bearings, front brake pads and dropped the LH fork leg ready to replace another bloody seal.
Will check v/v clearances and might even treat the old girl to a new plug.
Hope all will be well for the Coffs trip
Cheers
MurphThats all good Murph but what about the clutch?? Could be worth laying it on its side and removing the side cover, checking the basket fingers for grooving and the plates. Something isnt allowing them the disengage be it lack of slave piston travel or mechanical
TB
Yeah, something isn’t right, mines the same, maybe not as bad – (when are you doing mine Tb, clutch, swing arm bearings, steering stem bearings, leaking rhs fork seal, counter shaft seal, heim joint -come to think of it, how long have you got holidays at christmas :laugh: :laugh: )
hatto
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