Ktm rebuild

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  • #104744

    Hey guys. Went to North Star. Bike was running rich and fouled a plug. At lunch decided to go one clip leaner on the needle. Bike went great for 40km. Took off for another loop and bike lost power and would not rev out. Sounded lean. Not rideable. Took bike apart and the photo shows what I found. My question is, could a broken reed cause the pitting on the cylinder head? The piston has similar marks but to a lessor extent. Cylinder is good. No marks etc. What the bloody hell is the milky crap inside the power valve cover? My thinking is a new top end. New reed petals and flush the bottom end. But this doesn’t address the milky crap inside the power valve cover. Any help would be great. Cheers

    #263560

    Sorry, photos are not uploading for some reason.

    #263562

    Dean
    Member

    Hey Luke, has the coolant level dropped in the radiator? The bottom end milky as well ? I dougbt a buggered reed petal will do any damage except make it run crap. You didnt inhale any water in a creek crossing etc ?

    Ollie

    #263563

    Hey Ollie. I didn’t take note of the coolant level before I dropped it. I did boil the bike in one section of North Star due to clutch flogging. Didn’t do any water crossings. Fresh fuel mixed at 40:1
    I dropped the gear oil and it looks pretty ordinary. Dark with a silver look. But not the foamy white substance on the inside of the power valve cover. I recon you are right though. At some point coolant has mixed with gear oil and been flung about up into the power valve. I am trying to avoid a full bottom end rebuild so my main concern is the pitting of the cylinder head. A perfect scenario would be that the pitting was caused by the reed valve and those broken bits have since been forced out the exhaust port. That being said I would hate to pop a new top end in only to find that something did go off in the bottom end and I stuff a new piston. Thats the $299 vs $1059 question.

    #263564

    Scott
    Member

    Looks like pre detonation from running lean or pinging in other words

    #263566

    Dean
    Member
    ted 300 wrote:
    Looks like pre detonation from running lean or pinging in other words

    You Could be right there Ted, The spark plug looks very white :(

    Are those carbon fibre reeds any good ?

    As for the gunge maybe a leaking head gasket ? due to the lean mix hotter temps

    Ollie

    #263567

    Cheers Ted. I had considered that. Do you think the running for 5 min or so with the broken reed could have created a lean condition? I didn’t notice any detonation prior to the reed failing. From what I have read detonation is pretty noticeable when the bike is under load etc sounds like the motor is full of marbles.
    The spark plug is white as it is new. When I got back to the pits it was the first thing I replace in attempt to get going again.
    I think I will just tidy up the head. New piston kit and gaskets etc. Reed petal kit then send it of to SSS to have a look at my jetting. 38pj 165main and needle on 2nd clip.

    #263568

    Scott
    Member

    I would change the head but that is just me if you do run it again I would make sure the sharp edges are removed from the pit marks in the head. to stop a hot spot forming and your jetting looks a little lean for 40:1 it’s almost what I run for 50:1 what needle are you running

    #263569

    The needle is not marked so I assume it is stock. I will put the Suzuki needle in that I read people are doing. Pop it back together then on the dyno and let those in the know sort it out.

    #263570

    Dude
    Member

    Gday sir luke

    White stuff looks like water as said by ollie and that sounds right head gasket leak so just replace those reeds and a new head gasket and off you go again….. the needle I run is a suzuki needle necj and the same jetting thu…… I do 50:1 good luck :)

    #263571

    Cheers Dude. I have been watching a few of your youtube vids and it looks like you are getting along very well with the 300.

    #263561

    Alex
    Member

    The pitting is very small and lots of them, I’d believe detonation. Wouldn’t believe that was from moving the needle clip one position for a second. That jetting is reasonable. I think you have ridden the bike for some time without issue, jetting just doesn’t change for no reason. Failed CF petal is not uncommon, but wouldn’t do that damage IMO. Wondering if the plug foul was an oily or heavy carboned up plug? Also wondering if you were getting hanging idle or unusual run-on? I recon you have an air leak, filter, carb boot, main seals… I’ve never seen that white stuff before ever. Greyish oil is fine from beaten up aluminium clutch plates but white sticky looking stuff – strange. If you had a head oring leak it sould be very obvious, oring damaged, damaged grove (been there) plus it would be spitting coolant just riding normally.

    #263572

    Cheers Axel. No running on or hanging. I have idle set pretty low. Snapping throttle, revs respond without hesitation or bogging and revs drop back to a steady low idle in what I believe is a reasonably quick time. No running on after shutting throttle coming into corners etc. Plug was dark oily but no carbon on tip etc. Bike fouled the week before as well but I put this down to running Silkolene Kr2 as I was at the farm with the kids (riding slow and idling more than usual) and ran out of my fully synthetic Klotz R-50. Again plug was oily but no carbon/crusty bits. Bike hasn’t need coolant top up except for this weekend at North Star but I put that down to boiling the bike in the rocky forest. Proper boiled with steam in my face and coolant pissing on my boot. 2 Other riders on 300’noted I was running a bit smokey. Not a lot but usually once these things heat up you only see the occasional puff. Reed petals are an easy fix, Scotch brite the head as best I can. New top end kit. Would a dyno tune highlight any air leaks or other probs? Outside this, ebay no reserve or the tip as my wife has mentioned.

    #263574

    Alex
    Member

    I forgot to say earlier to consider a fuel issue. Fouling a 300 now days is not that common. Your plug could have gone bad or your fuel is bad are most likely. Not jetting. Also, you say 40:1 but if you oiled that fuel up twice by mistake you’re now at 20:1 (or worse) which will be smokey, spooge running down the muffler. The more oil the run the leaner the fuel mix will be – how lean I don’t know. On the same lines mixing poor quality or ancient oil in with fuel (usually straight into your tank) can also be the cause of too much oil at the bottom of the tank, not enough at the top… I remember with Shell 2SX (still says on the bottle) we had to mix it very carefully or it would not combine well.
    I’d be keeping the head as it is making sure there are no protruding dents so hot spots can start issues like preignition, otherwise it’s just cosmetic. From what your saying I don’t think coolant has anything to do here. Replace your reeds, tighten all clamps so they don’t spin but not overtighten, check your airfilter boot/cage for dust/dirt, top end as you wish and measure up how much gap the old rings were. Lift the conrod up and down for any big end up/down play by feel. Take the flywheel/starter cover off and see if you find any white stuff or excessive oil and crap in there. Check the power valve opens and shuts completely easily otherwise there is a pita job right there (more orings and lots of scotchbite).
    Nice fresh 95 octane fuel and oil. Never heard of Klotz, US$48 per gallon is cheaper than anything we normally buy here (Mobile1/Motorex/Motul/Silkolene).
    As for jetting I don’t know what year you have but I think 2008 – 2013ish are all compatible. I run 38P, 165M, NECJ #3, 1.5ASout for winter. Newer bikes will be different.

    #263575

    Alex
    Member

    Have a really REALLY close look at the Nikosil coating on your cylinder. I mean get a magnifying glass in good light, WD40 on white rag until there is no more grey coming off the coating and look for cracks, flakes and bubble spots or dents. Especially around ports and bridges between them. Take photos and note them to look at next time you rebuild if there is suspicion. I’ve seen and heard of some barrels after a seize happened that look fine until rings were wearing out real fast and on close look the coating had damage requiring recoating or complete barrel replacement. Not trying to jinx you but it’s worth checking properly. If it’s all bad news then throw it together and ebay it. The straw that broke the camel’s back if you know what I’m saying.

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