KX85 big wheel front fork set up?

This topic contains 22 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Brad Raffin 14 years, 9 months ago.

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  • #98745

    Mick D
    Member

    Having recently converted a 2006 little wheel KX85 into a big wheel KX100, I have a question or two.

    Before I did the conversion I did a fair bit of research into what needed to be done (although I couldn’t actually find any one that has done the conversion) and discovered that the front forks on both bikes are the same length and that they even have the same part numbers on the fork springs. Once I fitted the new longer rear swing arm from a KX100, all was set to fit the big wheels, in theory that is. It all went together well and the bike is going and handling great, yet at the Motocross on Sunday my son came in complaining that on the bigger jumps his front wheel scuffs under the front guard. I dropped the fork legs down about 10mm below the top of the triple clamp and dialled the bottom clickers up 3 clicks (Compression) up to the standard KX100 settings and that seemed to stop it to a degree, but the forks are way to low in the top clamp in my opinion. (It has an aftermarket 3 bolt triple clamp that allows us to get away with having them so low in the top clamp).

    I was wondering what should be done to the forks to stiffen them up a bit as they seem a bit soft (they already have 7.5 weight fork oil in them). My son is a much bigger lad now than when we bought the bike 3 years ago. Should I be looking at heavier springs?? Or am I missing something here?

    #184218

    Dean
    Member

    yep Springs will make a real difference,the heavier oil will only slow the action down but will not stop the bottoming. oh and keep an eye out for a good 125! :laugh:

    Ollie

    #184223

    Mick D
    Member

    Ollie wrote:

    Quote:
    yep Springs will make a real difference,the heavier oil will only slow the action down but will not stop the bottoming. oh and keep an eye out for a good 125! :laugh:

    Ollie

    Thanks Ollie, at the moment this bike fits him perfectly but a quick check of his internet history shows he has been checking out a whole heap of YZ250F’s. He can dream on a bit longer though. :laugh:

    #184224

    Dean
    Member

    micknmeld wrote:

    Quote:
    Ollie wrote:

    Quote:
    yep Springs will make a real difference,the heavier oil will only slow the action down but will not stop the bottoming. oh and keep an eye out for a good 125! :laugh:

    Ollie

    Thanks Ollie, at the moment this bike fits him perfectly but a quick check of his internet history shows he has been checking out a whole heap of YZ250F’s. He can dream on a bit longer though. :laugh:

    :laugh: :laugh: When is the next container load coming in from Nippon? :laugh: :laugh: make sure there are some good 250F’s amongst them :laugh:

    Ollie

    #184225

    Mick D
    Member

    I would suggest that is where his next bike may come from. :)

    Now how do I decide how heavy to go in the springs as there are a heap of different springs available. They are relatively cheap aren’t they?

    #184219

    Greg
    Member

    I am sure Brad will respond here today Mick. Whats the front end sag? You may not need springs they only hold the ride height really. That said he is a big boy :laugh:

    Leave it Brad will sort it but knowing the sag would be a big help

    TB

    #184226

    Dean
    Member

    Hey Mick I use this Racetech site to help me get a ballpark figure http://old.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRateCalculation/dirtspring.asp?brand=Kawasaki&yr=2007&ml=KX85&formuse=form1&SpringType=Fork&bikeid=572

    As TB said im sure the Technick guys will be able to help as they are the Guru’s :)

    Ollie

    #184229

    Mick D
    Member

    I have just measured the fork sag.

    Static (up on a stand) 825mmm axle to top of triple clamp.

    on the ground with Connor standing on the pegs 760mm

    Difference 65mm

    #184230

    Greg
    Member

    Well be interested to see what Brad says mate

    TB

    #184232

    Greg
    Member

    Its here in Tekniks setup guide from their website. Its in a PDF you can print take to the shed fill out answers your questions and keep as a record of changes and adjustment

    Here check it out, scroll down

    Tabs along the top, went to Teknikal Library, down to setup guides, then off road setup ;)

    Its way out of spec Mick by the way :P

    TB

    #184236

    Jason Green
    Member

    Hey mick can you make a spacer or washer or something to fit inside the fork tube to give it more tension or am I way off as I dont know much about suspension

    #184243

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    Rear race sag is usually around 1/3 of total travel

    #184254

    Mick D
    Member

    Mr Blue wrote:

    Quote:
    Rear race sag is usually around 1/3 of total travel

    That gem doesn’t help with my front end issue though. :laugh:

    #184255

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    micknmeld wrote:

    Quote:
    Mr Blue wrote:

    Quote:
    Rear race sag is usually around 1/3 of total travel

    That gem doesn’t help with my front end issue though. :laugh:

    Sorry Mick, inexcusable of me front is usually a tad over 1/4 of total travel

    here’s a good quik read I borrowed from an expert

    RACE SAG

    Make sure your forks are at the standard height in the triple clamps before starting any adjustments. 3mm down from the fork cap to the top of the triple clamp. Most run it 5mm for better steering.
    Increasing the preload on your rear spring will decrease the Race sag. Most run 100mm of race sag on the rear. I run 85mm~90mm this is about 3.75″. This will raise the rear of your bike putting more weight on the front wheel and reduce the front-end rake and be more like an MX bike. This will always make the bike turn sharper. If you tighten the spring too far it will make the bike unstable and make the bike prone to headshake.

    Less preload on the rear spring will increase the Race sag at the forks. This will cause the front end to float and be light with hard acceleration. The back end will squat, putting less weight on the front wheel and causing it to ride like a “chopper”. This will reduce head shake, making the bike go straighter and be more secure at high speed. The bad side of not enough shock pre-load is the bike will become hard to turn.
    To fine tune the spring preload (Race Sag), start out with 4″. The bike will pull the front end up sooner. Much easier to pull a wheelie. Try tightening the rear spring adjusting nut 1/2″ turn down and mentally note how much easier the front end will dive into a turn and hold the inside line. Continue this spring tightening until the bike becomes twitchy and unstable, or it feels like you’re always pulling up on the handlebars to get the front up in the whoops. Measure and record your Race Sag.
    Then try loosening the rear preload 1/2 inch turn at a time and mentally note how the rear end “Squats” down and traction increases as you exit each turn. When you reach the point of excessive front-end lift (wheelies) and loss of steering, or you begin to have trouble holding a tight turn, the spring is too loose and you have too much Race Sag. Measure and compare these two extremes, then reach a compromise between them that balances “stability” and “tight turning”.

    Tune the front-end ride height to match the rear end!

    If the Race Sag compromise you determined above is close to the typical (4″~3.75″) measurements listed above, your fork height adjustment in the triple clamps is probably about right.

    Raising the forks in the triple clamps will lower the front end making the bike turn sharper but will reduce high-speed stability. (Similar to increasing the rear preload.)

    Lowering the forks in the triple clamps will raise the front end making the bike harder to turn, but will increase high-speed stability. (Similar to lowering the rear preload.)

    #184220

    Brad Raffin
    Member

    Hi Mick,

    The first thing that I really do need to know is what does your son weigh out of his gear? There are a number of different options to improve the front end on your newly built KX100. First you will need to install the correct spring rates for the weight of your son, you can then look to install an anti-bottoming kit which will improve the bottoming resistance in the fork and lastly we can install upgraded compression and rebound piston and settings to suit your sons rdiing ability.

    Once i have an idea on your sons weight I can then work out what exactly you will need.

    Brad

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