led indicators and load resistors

[dennis da menaceMember]

the led has a polarity, meaning it will only work one way around.

didyou try doing it as per kinda drawing 2, if its still no good try it back to front, like kinda drawing 3

……good one tiny, you biarch……

[drewMember]

um no Menace,

i fitted, wired, soldered and heat shrinked the indicators before the rectifying cam arrived.

and as i found that with the jumper wires it worked only when i piggied it off the out side of the cam and earthed to the chassis.

and with the dash light in all 4 come on.

just looked at the site again and they reckon you put 1 on every corner as per your drawing 2.

i think.

[shaneMember]

This may or may not help but…if you’re putting those resistors in series it won’t matter where in the circuit they go.

I’d also be putting on at each light (if that’s what you meant by one a each corner.)

With th lights off the resistors should not be getting hot! Means there’s current going through them. Grab a meter and find out. They’re big resistors so I guess someone expects a fair bit of power to go through them, that being said as a result they will get warm…of course without them the LEDs may run funny colours for a while before finally going POP! More amusing than dangerous.

Bear in mind that polarity does matter since they are diodes, but that’s easy to work out, ifthey’re put in the wrong way they simply won’t pass any current.

They do look good but hay?

[drewMember]

the lights have diodes in them, but the resistor worked either way, as i tested with jumper wire /clips, got hot either way. i even put both on together, one one way the other the opposite ‘polarity’, both heated the same amount. at the same rate.

upon thinking about it maybe i should fit it after the switch block. not after the flasher.

when i had the flasher out i tested with multi meter, power on one side, none the other. but i didn’t test if power at earth end of the resistor after fitting it.

one seller on fleabay states they do get hot and should not be fitted to plastic or in a small space that could lead to fire, melting stuff etc.

[dennis da menaceMember]

yeah your right shane. i was thinking they were an “all in one” unit. thats what i meant about turning them around…..then looking at my half asleep drawings, i drew the leds the same way round…d’oh.

those resistors have a built in heat sink, so im tippin they are supposed to get hot.

[GregMember]

I have a set of 40 year old blinkers on my bike, they are the ducks guts and they fit straight on every single bike I hae ridden, see below, stuff all that other s*#t fair dinkum, I have be pulled up on the road and got away with it a couple of times (bugger me I will get done at Orange now )

TB

[dennis da menaceMember]

they look older than 40 mate….

and wheres the tatts!!!and the guts!!!

[GregMember]

menace wrote:

Quote:

they look older than 40 mate….

and wheres the tatts!!!and the guts!!!

YOU COULDN’T HANDLE THE TRUTH !!!!

[JasonMember]

you should be able to use a 10ohm resistor in parallel connection to stop it flashing quickly for an LED light configuration.
I’ve had a couple of cans and couldn’t be bothered reading the whole thread to find out if this is what you are asking help with :blush:

[Anonymous]

Drew,

Can we go back a few steps here so I have an idea of what you have done.

1) did the bike originally have a blinker setup using bulbs?
2) If so, did you simply replaced the bulbs with the LED lights using the same wiring?

3) If not to Q1, how is the blinker can and blinker switch wiring setup? Can you draw it in “Paint” and post it on here, or if not a wire by wire description.

4) Do the blinkers flash run the engine isn’t running? Most bikes I know get power for the blinkers, headlight horn etc from the 12volt AC charging cct on the bike, which only works when the engine is running

What model/year bike is it so I can maybe search for a wiring diagram, to know what we are dealing with.?

[Anonymous]

OK, Forget all my questions in the above post. Have a read of this post and it describes that what you are seeing with the hot resistors is normal and the only way around this is to change the blinker relay to an electronic one, not a thermal one.

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/51008-cbr954rr-led-turn-signal-flasher-relay.html

Electronic flaser relay
http://www.ledshoponline.com/electronic_flasher_cans.htm

I am still puzzled as to why the resitors get hot when the ignition is on and the blinkers are flashing. In theory, there is no current flowing and hence no heat should be generated.

[Anonymous]

I forgot to mention That I reckon the load resistors should be fitted to the two wires that come from the blinker switch output, that feed the LHS and RHS blinker circuits. That way they will only become hot when power is switched to either side’s blinkers via the switch.

I can explain it better on the phone if that doesn’t make sense. PM me if ya want and I will give you my number for a quick chat.

[glennMember]

:huh: :huh: :huh: WTF are you lot talking about:blink: :blink:

[Shayne O’NeilMember]

I bought a resistor kit for $15 as they lit up but wouldnt flash and wired them straight in on the positive side (similar to putting in an inline fuse)for each indicator. Kit was for two indicators but cant remember who made it. Works well, no obvious heat.

[GregMember]

boony wrote:

Quote:

:huh: :huh: :huh: WTF are you lot talking about:blink: :blink:

Thats funny, karma for that

TB

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