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A friend (with a welder) and I pulled the end off the zorst to see if there were any quick weight savings to be made or if we could open it out. It turned out to be a maze of chambers and pipes so we drilled a few holes and put the end back on. I put the airbox lid somewhere safe and took it to Dynotime. Rejetted, it came back with 22HP to its name. I’d asked them about fitting a Staintune header pipe but he reckoned it wouldn’t shift enough fumes to keep the gas velocity up in the bigger diameter…
The roofrack came off the back and smaller indicators went on. Up front I’ve had three or four sets of those brittle fork protectors – anyone know of decent polypropylene ones? The steel bars succumbed to a novel way I found of getting down a rocky, rutted hill, so there’s some alloy there. The mirrors are gone; a tiny foldaway one keeps it legal and doesn’t snag on the wing mirrors of the Toorak Tractors down Hoddle St. Ancient Barkbuster were donated by my old XT250; no plastic for ones that old so I butchered slots in the ones that came with the bike. Fork air pressure valves were a snug fit but went on fine.
The Acerbis headlight is waiting for a new clock to sit behind it. I think a 300 kit needs to be secured before the supplies dry up – with the price of new 250s…
The dyno work was done commercially in WA. Can’t praise the work enough – the same guy worked miracles on my SR500 cafe racer. If anyone can recommend a Melbourne bike dyno shop; I’m interested!
My mate’s 300 with the unplugged exhaust and Staintune header only reached 23.5 but the maximum power figures don’t tell the whole story, do they? Good to know that it’s running the best it can, though.
Fork springs (in transit), MX Retreads, then the kit!
The valves replace the screws on the fork cap. As the oil heats up and off-gases, pressure builds up making the action a little stiffer than planned. Rather than pulling out a screwdriver between loops, you just pull the bike up on the stand and rear wheel and give each valve a quick push. Two mouse farts later you’re away.
I’ve ‘remodeled’ a radiator – looking forward to your photos so I can see if they’ll fit the new shape I came up with! The Tech4s went through the paint ages ago – what else do the frame guards do?
Cheers, ‘Nuro’Team Nurofen wrote:
Quote:A friend (with a welder) and I pulled the end off the zorst to see if there were any quick weight savings to be made or if we could open it out. It turned out to be a maze of chambers and pipes so we drilled a few holes and put the end back on. I put the airbox lid somewhere safe and took it to Dynotime. Rejetted, it came back with 22HP to its name. I’d asked them about fitting a Staintune header pipe but he reckoned it wouldn’t shift enough fumes to keep the gas velocity up in the bigger diameter…
The roofrack came off the back and smaller indicators went on. Up front I’ve had three or four sets of those brittle fork protectors – anyone know of decent polypropylene ones? The steel bars succumbed to a novel way I found of getting down a rocky, rutted hill, so there’s some alloy there. The mirrors are gone; a tiny foldaway one keeps it legal and doesn’t snag on the wing mirrors of the Toorak Tractors down Hoddle St. Ancient Barkbuster were donated by my old XT250; no plastic for ones that old so I butchered slots in the ones that came with the bike. Fork air pressure valves were a snug fit but went on fine.
The Acerbis headlight is waiting for a new clock to sit behind it. I think a 300 kit needs to be secured before the supplies dry up – with the price of new 250s…
” I’d asked them about fitting a Staintune header pipe but he reckoned it wouldn’t shift enough fumes to keep the gas velocity up in the bigger diameter… “
Do this – got to let it breathe
” Up front I’ve had three or four sets of those brittle fork protectors – anyone know of decent polypropylene ones? “
yr2000 kx250 wil fit with an extra hole needed
Also have a look here: http://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_100000/tm.htm
and here: http://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_213768/tm.htm
cheers hatto
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