No rear brake???????

[murph the surfMember]

On a rather long and steep decent yesterday, I put way too much faith in my rear brake. To the point where nearing the bottom of the hill I had boiled the fluid resulting in no rear braking. The pedal was going through its full travel with nothing happening.
Rode for a while with a couple creek crossings, hoping when it cooled all would be cool. Didn’t happen.
Anyway, my son and I tried bleeding the system this morning with no luck.
Even back bled it with a syringe to no avail.
My thoughts are as follows:-
1: There is still air in the system
2: I have damaged the master cylinder seal, although I doubt it. :blink:
Question 1:
Has anybody else had this problem as it is new to me?
Question 2:
What is the remedy, as I have done what I thought would fix it? :angry: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
Cheers
Murph

[Damien BonoraMember]

Seems to me that your are on track Murph, if you have bled it to the point that you are not getting anymore air out and its still no good you might need to look at new fluid or the master cylinder seal.

I have not had this issue but I don’t ride the crazy shit you do :whistle:

Good luck

[Brett WilliamsMember]

Having seen the way you ride, I didn’t think you had brakes anyway! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

[terryjhaynesMember]

Not to sure,but worth a try.When I got the 310 it had front breaks but way too much travel on the leaver,,I put it to the Old Bull ring of knowlage and was put on to,,,,”revers bleeding”,,,You clamp the calipers in tight,so there are hard on the disk,,then pump the lever heaps of times or untill it takes up,I did this and without too many pumps the leaver came up to where it should be.
Hope this can work for yu.
Cheers Teza.

[Nick JacksonMember]

My rear brake on the Crf is a bugger to bleed too murph , I bled it , back bled it with a syringe and nothing. I thought it must be seal or something too !!

I took it to my mechanic and he took off the caliper held it lower than the master cylinder then bled as normal. The air gets trapped in the banjo bolt on top of the cylinder and as its a similar height to the caliper bleed nipple the air stays their.

This was my issue might be yours too mate ?

Nick

[alanMember]

i had trouble bleeding the back brake on my 530 took it to the local kawasaki shop and they bled it with a air operated pump tool took them about 2 minutes and all was fine after i flucked around for about an hour with no success with syringes etc

[Adam RodgersMember]

I’m inclined to go with Nick

LC rode Menaces 300 today and managed to get the rear brake hot (very hot) however it came good after a while once it was adjusted and cooled down.

Adam.

[Shane CosgroveMember]

Nickj wrote:

My rear brake on the Crf is a bugger to bleed too murph , I bled it , back bled it with a syringe and nothing. I thought it must be seal or something too !!

I took it to my mechanic and he took off the caliper held it lower than the master cylinder then bled as normal. The air gets trapped in the banjo bolt on top of the cylinder and as its a similar height to the caliper bleed nipple the air stays their.

This was my issue might be yours too mate ?

Nick

Same issue here Murph with bleeding the rear on the roadbike, trying to get air out of them while the brake liine is running level can be a real bitch, try nicks suggestion as its what I have done in the past the bleed stubborn brakes

[xr torcherMember]

its a ktm what else would you expext

[Ron BirrellMember]

I have used syringes before with no success, so I splashed out and bought a vacuum pump designed to bleed brakes and it works a treat. I loaned it to Aaron to bleed a brake on a Kato 65 he was having trouble bleeding and it worked a treat again. I think it cost me about $90-00, but it payed for it self already by not having to pay my local mechanic to do it. Hope this helps.

Buzz

[andrewMember]

I know this will get deleted off the tech thread but I could not help my self

WHEN BOONY HAS TROUBLE WITH HIS KTM HE GOES FOR A>>>>> BLUE FIX<<<<<<<

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

HOPE THIS HELPS MUPH

ANDY

[PeterMember]

I have experienced the same problem with the rear brakes on my orange bike.

The rear brakes will disappear after long down hills , however they will return when they cool down..

Does this indicate that the problem is me using the brakes to much , they get hot cool down & are OK for awhile
OR
Is there air in the brake line that is the root cause of the brake fade ??

Polly

[Aaron WildeMember]

That hill is nasty on brakes making the system smoke then a few minutes later we go through a few creek crossings that super cool it very quickly. How any system tolerates such forces with seals and pistons etc is incredible. :ohmy:

[craig evansMember]

iv had the same prob and did what nick said and all good the other thing iv noticed on mine is when my brake pads get to about 2/3 worn they wont work just like what your sayn also, try a new set of pads and if not the problem youll have a spare set when you wear your current set out

[AlexMember]

Hey Murph, you tried pushing the piston all the the way in and bleeding again? Use your knee pushing against the disk then shove something in there temporarily. Bleed again. Also if you reverse bleed again do it with the pedal at different positions. Sometimes the master won’t let the fluid bleed in a certain position.

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