Oil drain not sealing

[TrentMember]

When they inspected my oil drain bolt they discovered that the previous owner had re-drilled it on an angle and now it isn’t sealing because the bolt isn’t sitting flush against the case. To make matters worse its a countersunk bolt so I couldn’t grind the face to level it out. My first thought was to get a 2mm thick washer and grind it to make a wedge shape and fix that to the bearing area so that the bolt can sit flush. A fella I was talking to today suggested that I use three bond on the thread which sounds good after a quick read but I’m a touch worried about introducing anything that might work its way into the oil circuit. He’s getting me some to try which is good because I can’t find anywhere in newcastle that stocks it.

The KTM mech briefly suggested getting it tapped straight with an oversize bolt but I’m worried that’ll still be difficult to get straight still.

Any suggestions from the peanut gallery?

edit: so that this is clear, the bad helicoil work was done by a shop in sydney for a previous owner of the bike. I believe the local guys did their best with what they had.

[DeanMember]

Trent if you want it fixed properly,the best bet is to take the engine out of the frame and put it in the hands of a “reputable Engineering mob” sorry mate but thats the way it has to be. 3bond is great stuff but only a temporary fix

Ollie

[drewMember]

my 1st thought is to helli coil it.

it would be drilled to the size needed and tapped to fit the coil,

and if they use a jig of sorts it should be square again, and you retain your original drain bolt.

at worst you may have to get someone to weld up the hole and re drill it.

i wonder if you could use 2 washers, 1 against the case, 1 against the bolt and use some alloy epoxy between the washers, do it up just firm, let it set.

the only issue with this is you would have to get the washer in the right place each time you change the oil.

the other option is to put the epoxy on the case, put the washer and bolt in again just firm, let it set and it should be right from then on.

[shaneMember]

One of them olden days felt type washers would be a temp fix…

until it’s done properly that is.

[Brendon CarreMember]

As Ollie said it needs some expert treatment when it gets to this stage, you can drill re tap and helicoil but needs to be done by a pro with the right equipment. Have helicoiled sump plugs in the past but the thread was the only problem, quick fix with a bog will come back and bite!
It shouldnt cost to much to have it fixed and have peace of mind. You could always go for a Chicken speacial!! But i think it has to be a Honda for that one:dry:

[BrettMember]

TSK! my unf 1/2inch cat bolt is not racist it’ll work on anything!:laugh:

[Bruce CurtisMember]

Take engine out, have helicoil removed and redrilled to next oversize, straight this time and re coiled.

peace of mind then.

BC

[DavidMember]

This is a little off beat and a little bush but i have a few bikes that have the same problem and what I am about to mention should only be done after lots of alcohol induced thinking,

Firstly all oil needs to go in some hole some where so with this in mind all you need do is permanently glue shut the out hole at the bottom( JB weld, plastic steel epoxy, mig welder ect ect) and then use the fill hole as the emptying hole by laying the bike on its side and it will come out the in hole no dramas

Thats the off the wall way of skinning the cat

[DavidMember]

Ktmrat wrote:

Quote:

This is a little off beat and a little bush but i have a few bikes that have the same problem and what I am about to mention should only be done after lots of alcohol induced thinking,

Firstly all oil needs to go in some hole some where so with this in mind all you need do is permanently glue shut the out hole at the bottom( JB weld, plastic steel epoxy, mig welder ect ect) and then use the fill hole as the emptying hole by laying the bike on its side and it will come out the in hole no dramas

Thats the off the wall way of skinning the cat

This should not be done as anything other than a last resort

[TheBossMember]

Boony I have had to delete 3 of your posts from here this morning and two others from other people, I have better things to do with my time, its the only forum we ask that is treated seriously, no other forum, is it to hard really. Its only out of respect for the person that is asking for help, imagine if it was you, you needed help and you get a dribbling idiot like you making smart arse posts

Here are the rules again, last time Boony in the Tech Help section Boony!

http://www.obtrailriders.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=56&func=view&catid=8&id=31222

So if Boony and others continue to ignore this ONE simple request, action will be taken because we have better things to do with our time

Admin Team

[TrentMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Trent if you want it fixed properly,the best bet is to take the engine out of the frame and put it in the hands of a “reputable Engineering mob” sorry mate but thats the way it has to be. 3bond is great stuff but only a temporary fix

Ollie

That was my thought also but I don’t like the idea of having an oversize bolt unless I can still get a magnetic insert for it.

Can anyone recommend a reputable engineering company to do the work. I’m happy to take the engine back out again but I want to avoid splitting the case so they’ll still have to be careful not to get any swarf left in there. The KTM guys seal it up and hook an air hose up to keep it under pressure when they put the helicoil in last week but they said they don’t have any taps large enough to oversize it.

[GregMember]

GREG BALL MOTOR CYCLE ENGINEERING he fixed mine mate, he is the best and was very well priced, I have sent LC4skin there as well and he was happy with both price and service. This guy and his son do amazing work, they do work for drag racing teams in the states !!!

http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/Greg-Ball-Motorcycle-Engineer

I know its not exactly your back yard but it is only south side of Sydney for a permanent fix, I was told I had to replace my engine case when I cracked mine, he did a non invasive repair that you cant notice and is stronger than standard for $60, all I did is pull the engine out and gave it to him

TB

[TrentMember]

Kirrawee isn’t a worry I might even give it to a mate this weekend tht can drop it there on monday. Cheers for the contact I’ll give him a call.

[TrentMember]

Just got off the phone with Greg and the options range from good to ugly but he’ll know as soon as he looks at it. With any luck I’ll be able to get it down there early next week and in case KGB is reading this, yes I will be asking you to take it for me and if you wont I’ll be asking your missus

Best option I think was to form a new face within the countersunk hole which if I understood correctly also meant a new custom thread insert. Next best was to weld it up and re-drill and give it a flush to clean it Other than that it’s split the case and weld, redrill and tap.

[GregMember]

I have been very impressed by him, his work which is outa this world, his attitude and price mate.

Good luck, some before and after photos :huh:

TB

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