Home › Forums › General Bike Talk › Radiator Cooling
This topic contains 71 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Bruce Curtis 15 years ago.
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March 29, 2010 at 5:34 am #174769
AnonymousLike what Bruce, Motocool or are you talking about valve wear, cam chain tensioners, cams, followers and shims?
Some 2 strokes have shims too you know……in their forks :laugh:
That said if my 300 could manage the same mileage as my 450 without needing a top end that would be impressive…..
March 29, 2010 at 5:34 am #174767Whats the question here do people belive that the PWR are not better radiators then the standard mass produced cheap items fitted to the bikes by the OEM? The fact that the aftermarket radiators are better at their given task isnt even in question by anybody that has seen them to appreciate the quality of their build. The PWR radiators are of a made of a better material have a larger core and surface area and will cool more coolant as more will be in the better quality core to be cooled but again regulated by thermostat
The only way it could be tested is time taken under a set load to get to a preset temperature but seeing the radiators would remove any doubt if you can let go of the logo size :huh:
Without seeing the radiators standard or aftermarket how can you even start to compare them :laugh:
The new radiators will run the engine at a lower (above minimum thermostat) temperature all of the time until you are in the first gear stop start waiting for people etc and then only a thermo fan would help but thats a whole other story
TB
March 29, 2010 at 5:48 am #174770Moto wrote:
Quote:Like what Bruce, Motocool or are you talking about valve wear, cam chain tensioners, cams, followers and shims?These and more, like energy loss through heat dissapation, corelation of oils in the heat exchange process, additives so forth.
I agree TB most good aftermarket gear is built to do a specific function and usually to a higher design standard than the OEM, you just have to look at OEM tyres to see this.
BC
March 29, 2010 at 6:01 am #174771
AnonymousI forgot about the fact that if they look good they must work better.
I’m sure they will be better, it’s your poor explanation of why that I contest. Telling everyone to look at it because they are bigger, use better materials and have better welding and nicer logo’s to determine they are more efficient is poo poo
The point of the cooling system is to help the engine run at peak performance by not getting too hot/cold. This, rather inevitably, leads to better HP for a given engine load/temperature. That other graph I posted showed the PWR did not do that.
You either make extra power because your system is running cooler and not heat soaking (because your old system was inadequate)or your new rads reduce the operating temp of the system but don’t increase power (as per the graph). This tells you that the standard units were doing the job just as good. Albeit they are not made from a shiny material or have snazzy red different sized logo’s :laugh:
Theirs probably weren’t custom made like yours either though
March 29, 2010 at 6:02 am #174773oh, is this a serious matter…
me and moto were just trawling for clown fish
gotchya Nemo :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
March 29, 2010 at 6:08 am #174775
AnonymousIt’s not in tech help :laugh: The fun does have to end though, I’m off home now
It’s like releasing a coiled spring, just sit back and wait for the backlash :laugh: have you punched your keyboard yet? :laugh:
They’re very nice radiators mate, don’t let anyone tell you different.
So, have you fitted them yet? :laugh:
March 29, 2010 at 6:10 am #174776
AnonymousHave you thought about motocool TB….just saying. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
March 29, 2010 at 6:18 am #174777Moto wrote:
Quote:It’s like releasing a coiled spring, just sit back and wait for the backlash :laugh:theres a bloke on here with a signature that goes something along those lines :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
March 29, 2010 at 7:32 am #174758Moto wrote:
Quote:Found this for a KLR650, basic but does the jobJust add a bypass before the thermostat and restrict the flow to the rad/s and it will work well
March 29, 2010 at 10:21 am #174782I may like to discuss a couple of things here, now where does the notion a coller engine is more efficent all things being equal?
I remember somewhere, somehow a learned person explaining to me about heat retention and how if harnessed correctly in the combustion process was the makings of more power.
And if cooler is better why does the coolant pass through the hottest part of the powerplant last, surely it would be better if it went there first and equalised the heat (disappated even) the heat to the other cooler areas on the way, then to the radiators and round around.
March 29, 2010 at 10:56 am #174807Bruce the first thing you need to get working properly is the water pump it needs a bypass to work and a little hole in the thermostat wont flow enough also there is too much drag tru the radators to feed very hungry impella designs
you also need to restrict the flow and slow it down in the rad to give it time to cool but the main goal is flow at all times to the water pump
March 29, 2010 at 9:56 pm #174808
AnonymousMr Blue wrote:
Quote:I remember somewhere, somehow a learned person explaining to me about heat retention and how if harnessed correctly in the combustion process was the makings of more power.Technically this is a sound idea. The point of having fuel and air in the chamber is to compress it and ignite it. The resultant reaction forcing the piston down, rotating the crank providing the vehicle with momentum.
Having a hotter start point means that to initiate combustion less energy is required making the system more efficient. It’s a similar principle to waste heat recovery in a power station.
This is only good to a point though, and since I don’t know the manufacturer’s designated optimum temperature range for operation you would have to assume that the heat in the cylinder head is cooled to below the auto ignition temp of the fuel air mix. Otherwise you would get detonation and problems with ignition timing.
Since people do already suffer these issue with certain jetting set-ups I would guess that the operating temps are already up there at, or close to, the max permissible level.
NB:- These are my assumptions only and not based on facts.
March 29, 2010 at 10:35 pm #174838My xr and nx are air cooled engines so no water pumps or radiators are required so does this mean my bikes looses power when they are hot and under load or they just keep on going without any trouble?
March 29, 2010 at 11:03 pm #174839What about ski boats?
I was at the ski boat racing the other day and there was a few twin turbo big block boats, one was 525 cubes, 16psi boost, only reving to 6600rpm making 1800 hp.
With unlimited cold water for cooling how do they regulate engine temp? And how do they find the perfect temp?
March 29, 2010 at 11:09 pm #174842They run them cold LC they aren’t interested in wear rates just power.
TB
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