Reed valves ???

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This topic contains 9 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  pete 13 years, 8 months ago.

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  • #100336

    pete
    Member

    I am looking at putting a new reed valve in my 300 and was after some input on which one people have and recommend.
    Thanks

    PTW

    #207001

    Mick D
    Member

    I would go as for as saying the Vforce3 seem to be the popular choice of the masses.

    #207002

    Alex
    Member

    See if you can source a V4. They seem to be hard to get still but some are raving about them for 300s Pete. Are yours damaged?

    #207018

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    Going against the grain here

    force Vs are good reeds, but suffer some QA and flow issues at WOT and have been known to fracture the petals easily (I have them so no bias) are really great for low end throttle response and metering signal strength.

    HOWEVER the Boyeson Rad Valve is this plus more, much better design and from the people who invented the reed valve for 2T engines.

    If i had to buy again…….

    #207036

    Roy
    Member

    Mr Blue,

    Is one significantly dearer than the other. I’m about to check mine, so may need to know.

    On that note. Are reeds something that should be replaced after a certain interval (are they a wearing part). What happens when they fail. Signs of failure and damage to engine.

    #207043

    ian
    Member

    yours is a 2010 isnt it pete, V3 comes standard on the ktms

    #207003

    Alex
    Member

    Yep he should have v3 already thats why im wondering if theyre broke. Roy they are not something that wears out so easy but good idea to check ob them as Mr B said above. Go the rad valve then maybe?

    #207004

    pete
    Member

    I do have a V3 and although I haven’t checked yet, I think something may not be right.
    My fuel economy has gone a bit crap and I seem to have a bog in my higher gears, every thing seems to be good and I have a feeling it maybe the reed valve.
    It’s no drama to replace the petals but thought maybe look at a new reed all together I also could find that there is nothing wrong with it at all and then it’s back to trying to find out what the hell is wrong.

    PTW

    #207063

    Bruce Curtis
    Member

    Reeds are consumables, they flutter and move mere thousandths of an inch at incredible frequencies, carbon fibre ones i believe are better but not infallible.
    I used to replace the petals at rebore time, now I’d say at replate time.

    Price?, last time i checked around the same money ex-usa, saying that i bought mine out of italy a few years ago, and the first set had too much clearance and my idle and throttle response was crud, so i had them exchanged.
    Boyeson Rad-valve is funnily enough a more direct approach in design and works much better, a larger petal retains it’s memory and is less upset but the funny pulses that (especially a crankcase Induction) 2Ts can have, they are just betterer all round.

    Peter Wulfybloke, I had to rejet as the stronger signal with the V-force was stuffing my A/F ratio up, I actually went down 4 sizes on Pilot jet, and went to the JD Blue for summer, and looking at my piston wash I could go down some more… remember the stronger an engines (to a point) Vacuum signal is, the smaller the orifice needs to be to deliver the necessary volume of fuel.

    BUTTTT read above, my first set was dodgy, and I’m not the only one who has noticed it.
    and changing the petals on the V#s is a royal pain in the rear.

    #207070

    pete
    Member

    Thanks Mr Blue
    Sounds like I might be on the right track, I knew the petals don’t have an easy life.
    I have also change my jetting, thats why i ruled out jetting and thought about the reed valve.
    I didn’t realize replacing the petals was a pain in the arse.

    PTW

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