Rekluse z-Start Pro Auto Clutch

[GregMember]

singletrackmind wrote:

Quote:

So with this setup I could run my rear brake on the bars? That would siut me fine. Would it still allow me to loft the front wheel over logs as if I had a manual clutch and if the answer to that is yes, how much?

STM

STM, ring Mal at Sutto’s mate tell him your an old bull

TB

[MalMember]

singletrackmind wrote:

Quote:

So with this setup I could run my rear brake on the bars? That would siut me fine. Would it still allow me to loft the front wheel over logs as if I had a manual clutch and if the answer to that is yes, how much?

STM

Yes you can have a rear brake on the bars. Rekluse make a kit.

I find it easier now to loft the front wheel as that clutch slips the same amount every time. It seems to depend on how fast you twist the throttle to how far the front wheel comes initially. I found that I was standing up more and lofting the front over stuff I would normally try to avoid.

Hope this helps STM.

[ChrisMember]

Homer you have missed your calling dude, you should be writing articles for the Trail Bike Mags, Great write up.

Cheers
Chris.

[scott bockingMember]

Cheers Mal

I am on the phone to Sutto’s tomorrow.

STM

[ChrisMember]

STM make sure you only speak with MAL he is the man…

[scott bockingMember]

Cheers Chris. TB gave me the heads up.

Gotta love OBT!

STM

[ChrisMember]

Mal What price did you pay, if you don’t want to say here PM Me.

Cheers
Chris.

[MalMember]

chris72a wrote:

Quote:

Homer you have missed your calling dude, you should be writing articles for the Trail Bike Mags, Great write up.

Cheers
Chris.

Thanks Chris.

It actually quite easy when you understand the product and enjoy the sport. I like all things mechanical too.

[timMember]

Great write up Mal, Love the first photo of the workshop with shitter in the back ground and tools (beer) on the floor

I can vouch for the rekluse clutches, I miss the one I had and will be getting another soon, they make everything easier, I’ll let you all know how much time it gives Mal on his grass track, I reckon he will get a couple of seconds a lap out of it
Also the older model clutch was definately harder to install than the new Pro clutch

[DeanMember]

Yep they certainly are a good thing especially in the wet snotty terrain where you have a lot of things going on in your brain :blink: I did have issues with mine but that was mainly to do with the original friction disks were on the worn side,I replaced them with a complete clutch kit and it was fixed! I removed the rekluse before I sold the bike to old mate,and I still have it downstairs some where, it cost me over $1100 new with the perch adjuster,if anyone wants to make me a reasonable offer I would consider parting with it prior to putting it on Ebay. It was for an 04 WR450 Yammy but I am pretty sure it fits the 426WR/YZ and 03-06 WR/YZ450. BTW it is not the Pro it is the normal one

Ollie

[MalMember]

Just got a pm from Ollie with a couple things to careful of when using the Rekluse.

1. Stalling on a snotty uphill means you have no gears to assist in holding the bike, only the front brake. Unless you have the rear brake on the left bar.

2. Ollie had a piece of inner tube over the left bar to put on the front brake when parked on uneven ground. Stops the bike from rolling off the stand or sliding down a hill on the stand.

Cheers for the tips Ollie.

I’m off to cut up an inner tube.

[GregMember]

mal5.1 wrote:

Quote:

Just got a pm from Ollie with a couple things to careful of when using the Rekluse.

1. Stalling on a snotty uphill means you have no gears to assist in holding the bike, only the front brake. Unless you have the rear brake on the left bar.

How the hell does it stall? Isn’t now in reality stall proof?

TB

[DeanMember]

In a perfect world and in theory your right they shouldnt stall,but they do (sometimes) also in some situations the rider may want to stop the engine if he has some difficulty,Im talking pretty decent snotty rock ledge type terrain here. If you attempt to climb a ledge say and you cant make it normaly you can stall the bike and using the gears as an aid maneuver the bike into a position to have another crack.The Rekluse will just freewheel. :silly:

Ollie

[MalMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

mal5.1 wrote:

Quote:

Just got a pm from Ollie with a couple things to careful of when using the Rekluse.

1. Stalling on a snotty uphill means you have no gears to assist in holding the bike, only the front brake. Unless you have the rear brake on the left bar.

How the hell does it stall? Isn’t now in reality stall proof?

TB

No it is not stall proof. As I said in the review a rekluse is not a CVT nor is it a fluid coupling. Those drives would be closer to ‘stall proof’.

The rekluse removes the need for a manual clutch only. If you have the clutch locked in (the engine rpm is above the engagemnet rpm) and you load up the engine to a point where neither drive or wheel spin are achievable, the engine will stall. So on a hill, if you have the throttle still open as it all turns to shit then there a very real possiblilty of a stall. You can also still grab a handfull of ‘manual’ clutch and unlock the rekluse.

Hope this helps you understand the setup a bit more TB.

[GregMember]

Thanks Mal your explanation is very good.

TB

(PS I did understand, but I thought many may not and be confuses somewhat)

[Author]

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