Removing XR600 Rear wheel bearings

[Mick DMember]

Here is an article I posted on Thumpertalk after I replaced my rear wheel bearings.I actually got good gas for this effort!!! It may just help someone out one day.

TALK about chain reactions!!! Next weekend my brother and I are going on our first organised two day trailbike tour. So in preperation I decided to treat my pig to a new rear tyre (a dirty big fat chunky rock throwing knobby). AU$130.00
Anyhow when I go to bolt the wheel in, I spot this…….

Oh sh!t!!! Damn I wasn’t expecting that.This also sent a shiver down my spine considering how far from civilisation I was on my last ride. Ok, so I then decide to replace the chain and both sprockets another AU$230.00.I go to bolt the wheel back in and that’s when I noticed the chain slider was worn through and the chain was just starting to touch the swing arm. So back to my now cashed up Honda dealer and order the slider, AU$56.00 for a piece of rubber!!!! When it finally arrived, I get it home and go to bolt it on and it is a bloody CRF250 chain slider ARGHHH!!! I go back to the dealer (42km round trip)and have a bitch and he says “sorry the right part will be here in 5 days and it is $18 dearer for the XR one, “Like hell” I says, “you dicked me around” so to his credit he let me have it for $56.
I get home and go to bolt it up and once the wheel etc were in place I go to give the back wheel a spin and that’s when I realise the back wheel wobbles and the bearings are shot.I down tools and walk away before I kick the bike of it’s stand. I ordered new bearings and seals, they arrive $28 and I go to put them in, what tha? How do you get the suckers out? I do my homework and low and behold you have to have a special tool to get the bearing out!!! You are kidding me!!! By now I am getting really peaved. No one I know would have the special tool so I decide to make one, even though the manual says nothing but the genuine tool will work. So if you ever need to get the bearing retainer out here is a tool that does it and it only cost me $9 and half an hour of my time.
You will need 1 length of 1/4 inch threaded bar and 4 nuts to fit,1 length of 1/2 inch threaded bar and 2 nuts to fit Plus one piece of flat bar (I actually used the pedal of a broken lift stand) and a couple of big washers to fit the 1/2 inch bar. Once you have all that, measure up your holes in the retainer and drill the holes in the flat bar, bolt it together and you will end up with a contraption that looks like this….

It fits to the wheel like this…..

You will have to grind the 1/4 inch rod back a small amount to allow it to fit in the holes in the retainer. From there on it is just a matter of unscrewing the retainer, which if you are smart you will have soaked with some anti seize of some description.The tool then also works in reverse for putting the retainer back in.
Anyhow I know this was a long post but if it helps someone else out, I will be more than happy as I did a fair bit of chin scratching over the manufacture of the tool.
So all is good with the pig and she is ready to rip next weekend,I can’t effing wait!!!!!Trouble is I have spent all my sneaky stash of cash and will have to dip into our general account to pay for the trip, so the wife will now know how much the trip really cost.
Cheers
Mick

[GregMember]

Nice work mick, I have used a different tool that I had before I sold my trusty XR6 and it was a 2 piece gig and one piece was a hammer! You as always have done good work!

Need your arse kicked for that sprocket ! As chicken always says ” fail to prepare, preparing to fail !! “
Cheers TB

[DeanMember]

Hey Mick good work on the tool,excuse me for my ignorance though,but is the 1/2 inch threaded bar just so the 1/4 inch bar keeps a positive force on the 2 holes?

cheers ollie

PS did you check your suspension linkages also when you had the backend apart:ohmy:

ollie

[Mick DMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Hey Mick good work on the tool,excuse me for my ignorance though,but is the 1/2 inch threaded bar just so the 1/4 inch bar keeps a positive force on the 2 holes?
Cut The Julius Sumner Miller stuff!!!! The reason I used 1/2 inch threaded bar is because that’s all the Hardware shop here in the thriving metropolis, that is Wauchope had.

cheers ollie

PS did you check your suspension linkages also when you had the backend apart:ohmy:

ollie

Mate by that time I didn’t wanna look at no suspension bearings. They are all good though.

[Mick DMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Nice work mick, I have used a different tool that I had before I sold my trusty XR6 and it was a 2 piece gig and one piece was a hammer! You as always have done good work!

Need your arse kicked for that sprocket ! As chicken always says ” fail to prepare, preparing to fail !! “
Cheers TB

I know I need my arse kicked, but when you are responsible for keeping 10 bikes in riding order some things just slip through the cracks. Besides it wasn’t giving any indications something was wrong.No noise, nothing, believe me it came as a shock to me!!!

[Mick DMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Hey Mick good work on the tool,excuse me for my ignorance though,but is the 1/2 inch threaded bar just so the 1/4 inch bar keeps a positive force on the 2 holes?

cheers ollie

PS did you check your suspension linkages also when you had the backend apart:ohmy:

ollie

Hey Ollie,
Now I am sober I just reread your question,and yes you need the 1/2 threaded bar to keep the 1/4 bar in the holes on the bearing retainer. The retainer is in pretty tight,I tried using a hammer and pin punch but all that was going to achieve was to stuff up the holes in the retainer. The nuts on either end of the 1/2 bar supply the positive force you asked about.To be honest the tool worked better than I envisioned!!!

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