Suggestions Please. Broken bolt.

This topic contains 27 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by Mick D 13 years, 9 months ago.

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June 30, 2011 at 12:45 pm #204188

Mick D
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I dunno if it is the chemical reation between the metals or more of the fact that the swingarm isn’t a sealed unit allowing a build up of crud over the years in the tread on the end of the bolt that protrudes into the cavity in the swingarm.

June 30, 2011 at 12:59 pm #204190

Adam Rodgers
Member

micknmeld wrote:

I dunno if it is the chemical reation between the metals or more of the fact that the swingarm isn’t a sealed unit allowing a build up of crud over the years in the tread on the end of the bolt that protrudes into the cavity in the swingarm.

Mick,

If it was tight from the word go then probably corrosion Nothing like a bit of lubrication to get things going

If it was option B then you know the answer

At least with option B screwing the stud all the way in is an option.

If all else fails, when in doubt drill out

Adam.

June 30, 2011 at 1:34 pm #204191

Vincent
Member

Just another good idea is to do all of suggestions in my previous post , (Heat and cool/ freeze) but when you screw the nuts out which are welded to stud use an impact screwdriver with a socket attachment if it will fit.

This will do 2 things , help to dislodge the corroded stud by impact while simaltaneously screwing . ( “Just like we do with our shelias” Ha! Ha!)

You can also simaltaneously hammer the stud while screwing in or out till it loosens.
Vinnie, Ex Fitter and turner , worked on (F1-11 , Jindivick Missile, Bell helicopter, etc )

June 30, 2011 at 1:41 pm #204192

Greg
Member

micknmeld wrote:

I dunno if it is the chemical reation between the metals or more of the fact that the swingarm isn’t a sealed unit allowing a build up of crud over the years in the tread on the end of the bolt that protrudes into the cavity in the swingarm.

Swingarms are sealed or at least mine is and there were no chnages between 2000 and 2006 regarding the swingarms

TB

June 30, 2011 at 1:50 pm #204193

Mick D
Member

They aren’t sealed all that well, when I took the screws out that hold the brake hose and tipped it upside down water pissed out of the holes.

I am liking Vinnies impact driver idea.

June 30, 2011 at 2:20 pm #204172

Peter Horn
Member

Mick,

This won’t help you now but might down the track.
I’ve had the same problem on an unsealed swingarm. Once I’d sorted the issue of getting the bolt out, I drilled a hole directly beneath the bolt in the swingarm the same size as the squirt tube on the cat piss can so I could lube the bolt inside the swingarm without removing it. The hole is so small it doesn’t allow a lot of water in but will help the swingarm breath and cut down on condensation by allowing excess moisture to bleed out of the swingarm.
Had no more trouble after that.

Of course the other option (as the Mayor ) is to increase rates and then Mayoral salaries 👿 :laugh: and buy a new bike every six months …..

Cheers
Iva

July 1, 2011 at 11:23 pm #204195

Mick D
Member

Got the bolt out by welding a nut on and using plenty of heat whilst winding it out. Thanks Charlie.
Trouble is, the thread came out with the bolt. :pinch:
It required a helicoil, which was done by Rod at MudnTar this morning. Thanks Rod, the price was great too. :woohoo:
The PIG is now back together awaiting testing now. :cheer:

July 2, 2011 at 12:57 am #204194

TONY.
Member

i would stick weld a nut on it with a 2.5 mm general purpose rod @ 80 amps or mig if you have it apply a little heat then impact screwdriver/rattle gun it out

July 2, 2011 at 4:32 pm #204256

Dean
Member

Glad to see you got that bolt out Mick I had one do the same on my Boys KXF before it got flogged :angry:

fixed it with one of these http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/1629/

Ollie

July 18, 2011 at 1:10 am #204267

James Rookyard
Member

They seize in because alloy and steel corrode when in contact. Sealed or not sealed it makes no difference. I had the same problem with a mates KX450. In the end I had to get an engineering place to get it out cause I could not access it to drill let alone recoil it. Funny thing was they had another one with exactly the same problem sitting on the counter.
Make sure you put never seize or similar on the bolts from new to avoid the problem.
Snail cams are 200% better than those stupid bolt adjusters. I cant believe manufacturers went back to 1979 CT 125 technology. Same goes for cush drives and rubber mounted handlebars. All ag bike stuff in my book.

July 18, 2011 at 1:27 am #205067

Mick D
Member

yeah, dont worry Jimmy, there are lashings of never seize on them now!! and here I was thinking the bike was in tip top shape.

July 18, 2011 at 1:42 am #205068

James Rookyard
Member

A tip to get out of jail on the trail with this problem is to put a valve stem nut between the bolt head and the adjuster to tighten the chain. We did this with mates KX and it lasted a 5 hour pony express. Make sure you wind a spanner between the chain and sprocket to make sure the adjuster pulls up tight on the bolt and valve stem nut.

July 18, 2011 at 11:37 am #205069

Mick D
Member

jimmy wrote:

A tip to get out of jail on the trail with this problem is to put a valve stem nut between the bolt head and the adjuster to tighten the chain. We did this with mates KX and it lasted a 5 hour pony express. Make sure you wind a spanner between the chain and sprocket to make sure the adjuster pulls up tight on the bolt and valve stem nut.

Good suggestion Jimmy. I love McGuyver fixes. :laugh:
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