That valve saver stuff

[GregMember]

Chicken’s XR that used to be mine has done more kms without being touched than I reckon anybody else’s on this site and has never had anything other than petrol (all grades) used.
My current XR has been raced and ridden more than most and never had it added and again all grades of fuel used.

If your happy using it good I reckon spend your money and be merry, I struggle to listen to sales pitches from the people that have a vested interest in a product they sell, salesman beware! :angry:

I need to see evidence, hard solid visual evidence 😆

Rat couldn’t give me any solid evidence to back him using it earlier on this thread :huh:

I am going back to using me lucky Gypsy’s coin under my tongue lol :laugh:

TB

[Anonymous]

Ollie, that link specifically refers to pre 1986 engines that ran on leaded fuel and states that the lead in the fuel added a lead-oxidant coating to the valves to reduce/stop recession in cast iron cylinder heads.

The excerpt from the SAE states that this is not required in modern engines as the materials used for valve manufacture were improved during the inception of the use of unleaded petrol.

Also, all modern heads are alloy (I doubt any dirtbikes use cast iron heads) and are spefically designed for use with unleaded petrol.

If it costs you $80 for 4 years worth of gear then who cares, but from looking at the basic data available on the web there is no reason at all that I can see someone should need to use valve saver.

I’ll sit back and wait for my valves to recess now :laugh:

[DeanMember]

Ollie wrote:
I reckon it works but im no Julius Sumner miller either.

Ollie[/quote]

I use it in my ute because of the LPG and because I had it I also put it in the WR. The 5 years of running it in the WR with no shim adjustment needed was just an observation. prior to the WR I always put a capful of 2 stroke in the oil,didnt hurt them

Ollie

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Ollie wrote:
I reckon it works but im no Julius Sumner miller either.

Ollie

I use it in my ute because of the LPG and because I had it I also put it in the WR. The 5 years of running it in the WR with no shim adjustment needed was just an observation. prior to the WR I always put a capful of 2 stroke in the oil,didnt hurt them

Ollie[/quote]

Your WR450 didnt need a valve adjustment because its a 450 and they dont have valve problems, secondly because you ride like an old mole lol, my grandmother would give it a harder time lol :laugh: and it only had low klms and hrs on it anyway acording to your sales pitch when you sold it :ohmy:

TB :laugh:

Happy Easter Ollie

[Bruce CurtisMember]

I have a bit of anecdotal evidence on this as a benefit to OHV engines, a mate of mine owns the local taxi company and runs at any one time 20 falcons/fairmonts and three 8-10 seaters, he has a very astute business head and knows his vehicles (he has built a succession of very quick cars, currentlyas dato 1200 ute with a 375 rwhp 2.0, that handles as well). The head mechanic for the company is also my best mate and I will stand him up against anyone short of Jeremy Burgess or the late John Britten for mechanical savvy and on the hop no-bull diagnostics. These cabs in the past 5 years have conservatively done over 17 million kilometres (I can check the books, but that is from their estimations), in the early days Rodney (mechanic) was having trouble with valve recession and wear, so he put 5 cars on valve saver, those cars by far gave the least amount of problems and were kept in fleet longer, now all the fords are on it, and if it was a waster of money they wouldn’t use it as nothing frivolous is used by these blokes.
Apparently there is a compound in suspension that indeed softens the impact of valve to seat, of course with different cam profiles the ramp angle plays a huge part in this as well, which is why some aggressive power roadies used to also have this issue as well, if one could not get a liquid that can lubricate and so forth, why the hell do two stroke pre-mix work?.

IF ( that is a big IF) I ever go to cams, valves and springs and halve my power pulses, I will also be looking into this whole area very carefully and research the FACTs, cause my days of gaining enjoyment from torn down mechanicals is well behind me.

As an interesting aside to this Rodney (my mechanically gifted mate) runs 3 motorcycles ATM, a Katana 1100 (ex robbie phyllis castrol series bike), my old stove hot GSXR11, and one for the red monkeys argument a modded XR500 (like GE had) with late model front and rear suspension grafted in, Reckons you can’t beat a big XR for reliability and usable power and the big bugger can ride OK as well.

BC

[GregMember]

We at Cummins had trouble with valve related problems with gas engine when we started, it was stem wear because the non lubricating properties of gas. Gas engine yes I can see the need for it, when gas first kicked of in australia there was problem until they (all Manufacturers) changed valve materials etc

Gas engines different kettle of fish to petrol although lead is used for lubricating to a point, they are presently reducing the sulfur in diesel we is a lubricate so that could give diesel manufacturers a head ache soon, also the high klm of a taxi is because 90% of engine wear is when the engine is cold and taxi’s don’t often get to cool down

Nice work Blue

TB

[JasonMember]

Trail Boss wrote:

Quote:

they are presently reducing the sulfur in diesel we is a lubricate so that could give diesel manufacturers a head ache soon,

That would only be a problem for the older diesel engines.. The newer engines can only run on the new lower sulphur grade diesel..
Hence that’s why we now have a raft of flash euro diesels coming into Australia..

Gas engines also run very clean…. Change the oil in a gas engine after 10,000kms and it’s a big difference from a petrol car..

[Nick AgainMember]

Wikd beemer, Does not your manual for your BMW say, “Do NOT Add Additives to Fuel system or Oil system?”. Curious as my bike’s manual says it’s a No No.( yes it may be a Husky, bmw own it). On the Question of does the stuff work ? I had an HZ for some tiome, without running the stuff, the valves gave me all kinds of drama. Fitting “Stainless valves” was a One off cost, no more valve saver needed. I’ve been considering usiong Morely’s upper cyl. lube, it does the same job as most valve savers as well as looking after the upper ring..( according to said lable on container), however, i keep remembering the bit in the Manual, then worry it’l clash with some lil Oring or such and give me no end of grief whilst out in the middle of somewhere, far away from home.

[PaulMember]

Husky610 wrote:

Quote:

Wikd beemer, Does not your manual for your BMW say, “Do NOT Add Additives to Fuel system or Oil system?”

Yes it does, but I probably wont do the complete engine pull down and replace crankshaft bearings at 70 hours (like it says to on the Rep ROM) anyway so what the heck?

Quote:

i keep remembering the bit in the Manual, then worry it’l clash with some lil Oring or such and give me no end of grief whilst out in the middle of somewhere, far away from home.

I really doubt that will happen, the stuff is designed not to have any adverse effects like that.

[PaulMember]

WikdBeemer wrote:

Quote:

Husky610 wrote:

Quote:

Wikd beemer, Does not your manual for your BMW say, “Do NOT Add Additives to Fuel system or Oil system?”

Yes it does, but I probably wont do the complete engine pull down and replace crankshaft bearings at 70 hours (like it says to on the Rep ROM) anyway so what the heck?

Quote:

i keep remembering the bit in the Manual, then worry it’l clash with some lil Oring or such and give me no end of grief whilst out in the middle of somewhere, far away from home.

I really doubt that will happen, the stuff is designed not to have any adverse effects like that.

Actually I correct myself; the Beemer’s book only says to use 95 RON fuel, nothing about not adding things like valve saver.
At the risk of being wrong again, I would say your Husky manual was written before BMW took control of Husky but there are other reasons they might discourage additives in the fuel (eg: snake oil etc).
I have decided valve saver (FlashLube) is a good idea because they testify (almost) it is good for all modern motors as well as the older lead reliant ones for several reasons, one being it is a complete upper cylinder lube and my bike only has one compression ring!
Also quality and purity of petrol is an issue, refinery output varies and petrol can (and does) get contaminated by the time it gets burnt.
They say valve saver helps overcome these issues and helps keep the valves cooler and cleaner as well as lubricate. It also helps clean my injector.

TB: XRs and diesels are different to what I meant by “modern bikes”, the XR valves & seats probably had industrial diamond dust in them :silly:

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