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Hi LC4,
there are some really good Loctite bearing retaining compounds that will take up the difference up to around 1.5mm in diameter. You can use 603 or 609 Loctite for the job.
Judt make sure that is is really clean before you apply it , there is a proper cleaner/primer but brake clean will do the trick.The hub could be welded and re machined but that probably wouldn’t be much cheaper than a new hub if at all.
Trailraider wrote:Hi LC4,
there are some really good Loctite bearing retaining compounds that will take up the difference up to around 1.5mm in diameter. You can use 603 or 609 Loctite for the job.
Judt make sure that is is really clean before you apply it , there is a proper cleaner/primer but brake clean will do the trick.The hub could be welded and re machined but that probably wouldn’t be much cheaper than a new hub if at all.
Plus 1 on this idea. Done this on many a machine to get them going
If there is a fair bit of gap a trick is to centre pop the inside of the hub where the bearing sits. This swells the metal around the pop mark. If you do 4 pops @ 90 degrees to each other you will maintain centre for the bearing and the loctite will do the rest.
Adam.
adam wrote:Plus 1 on this idea. Done this on many a machine to get them going
Adam.
I have as well to get a bike going for a weekend etc and the loctite will work well but it is only a temp fix to be honest. Loctite is good we use it everyday but its its only patching something really :dry: If it wasnt temp Burg would just machine it to somewhere close and tell you to use loctite rather than work to fine tolerances. I loctite mine in my hubs from new using the retaining compound 603 (I think) I do it to keep the bearing tight and reduce the chances of the bearing working in the soft alloy hub holding it snug.
The hub I had machined was only $60 sleeved and done, still going today. If you have to buy a new hub spend the money and get a billet hub much stronger
There are some good deals on wheel sets going at the moment. I think as well Sutto’s had or are having a sale on wheel sets with billet hubs?TB
Thanks everyone for their ideas.
I just fixed it, all I needed was a few hours at work to think about it, luckily I get plenty of time to sit around and think at work :laugh:
Bob gave me the idea of going to the bearing shop and getting some shimming steel, but my thinking came up with using pieces of feeler gauges, so I cut up a feeler gauge (0.10mm), all it took was 3 pieces jammed in between the bearing and hub and its tight as a nuns nasty
If it flogs out again I’ll just use more pieces of feeler gauge or some thicker gauge. Pretty bodgy but bodgy is my middle name.
It would hurt to ask a bearing shop what bearings they can get in. The KTM?Berg use a fairly stock size bearing so I wouldn’t be surprised if you can get a new bearing with slightly larger OD that will only require a quick machining of the hub. It won’t cost much and is fairly straight forward to do. As TB suggested, if you go to a place with a big enough lathe they can do it with the wheel in tact.
Shimming is a fuck around and will have you buying a feeler guage set everytime you do wheel bearings
Do it properly you tight arsed bastard!!moto wrote:It would hurt to ask a bearing shop what bearings they can get in. The KTM?Berg use a fairly stock size bearing so I wouldn’t be surprised if you can get a new bearing with slightly larger OD that will only require a quick machining of the hub. It won’t cost much and is fairly straight forward to do. As TB suggested, if you go to a place with a big enough lathe they can do it with the wheel in tact.Shimming is a fuck around and will have you buying a feeler guage set everytime you do wheel bearings
Do it properly you tight arsed bastard!!NO!
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