Which battery charger!!!

[GlennMember]

Can anyone advise me which battery charger I should use for a Yuasa YTZ 7S battery. The battery is only about 6 months old and is showing just a little over 6v on the multimeter. I have a small automotive 12v 4.5 amp charger but I am not sure if this will be OK to use.

Thanks

[drewMember]

yeah should be fine, as long as it’s got an auto trickle charge, which most do anyway.

i use an elcheapo with the auto trickle and not had any issues.

[DavidMember]

Mate ring Gary at 65831990 , he is a very good mate of mine in port that runs an Auto Electrical Business, He got one in for me, I have forgotten the brand ,or model name but they are the ducks guts, and were the same price as el cheapo ones at super cheap. Make sure you tell him you are a friend of mine and are part of the old bulls and he will take good care of you:)

[Anonymous]

Sounds like you should give Dave’s mate a shout. AS XY said if it has a trickle charge just use that

[DeanMember]

Do not use anything that puts out more than 750 milliamps as your battery will be rooted in no time at all. Thats from experience, I paid about $35 for a proper one from a battery place at Narellan,found him on Ebay

Ollie

[drewMember]

Hey Ollie,

why dose more than 750mAh ruin the bike batt.?

is the one you use like the ones KTM and Ducati offer?

=you fit an external plug to the batt. and plug into that instead of alligator clips on the terminals.

got me thinking, now i’ll have to double check the amp output.

[GlennMember]

I have spoken to a couple of auto electricians today and the advice from both was it was best to charge from a source of no greater than about 1 amp output. Although one did suggest I could put the bike battery in parallel with a car battery and use a larger battery charger.

Found this info on battery charging rates.

MAXIMUM BATTERY CHARGING RATE
The maximum battery charging rate is often specified by manufacturers as C/5 where C refers to the ampere-hour (Ah) rating of the battery. Using this terminology, a 10Ah battery being charged at a C/5 rate corresponds to a 2.0A current. Exceeding this maximum rate should be done only with the manufacturer’s permission. Some particularly robust batteries may be charged at a 1C rate (or even higher). However, this usually requires a charger that is custom designed for the battery. The size of an off-the shelf charger should generally be chosen so that the C/5 rate is not exceeded.

[Graeme PattersonMember]

recently got a c-tek 800m/a charger when my battery went dead. these chargers also have the capability of rejuvinating a slightly damaged battery. Also comes with the terminal bolt on attatchment which allows you to just plug it in when you need to and forget about removing the seat and using aligator clamps. just leave the plug in your airbox. Paid $108 for mine but i needed it then and there. Saw them in a Repco catalogue last week for $89

Only problem i had was it needed at least 6v back charge to turn the charger on. Had to kick my bike over and go for a quick ride to give it a bit of charge so that it could detect the battery.

[GlennMember]

I spoke to KTMrats mate Gary, earlier and he suggested the C-tek 800m/a charger also. He had none in stock and his price was $110. He did indicated that using this charger would prolong the life of the battery by up to 3 times. Probably a worth while investment considering the cost of a replacement battery is about $180.00 – $190.00 for the battery.

[DeanMember]

xy-transit wrote:

Quote:

Hey Ollie,

why dose more than 750mAh ruin the bike batt.?

is the one you use like the ones KTM and Ducati offer?

=you fit an external plug to the batt. and plug into that instead of alligator clips on the terminals.

got me thinking, now i’ll have to double check the amp output.

From an EBAY store,same as the one I had for the WR450 Battery fighter Junior $33+$9.90 postage IMHO excellent valueB)

For your information:
The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity.

Battery life and performance – Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often are “my battery won’t take a charge, and my battery won’t hold a charge”. Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery’s lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes of sulfation are numerous. Let me list some for you.

* Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
* Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
* “Deep cycling” an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can’t stand deep discharge.
* Undercharging of a battery, to charge a battery (lets say) to 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incomplete charging cycle.
* Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
* Low electrolyte level – battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
* Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good.
* Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather.
* Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. Accessories – Alarm Systems, Central locking. Items powered off the battery while not in use.
* DONT store a battery on a cold surface. Eg Concrete floor. Why?? Because the temperature at the base of the battery touching a cold surface with respect to ambient temperature changes of the day causes it to discharge. The body of the battery must be all the same temperature. Store on wood or shelf when not in use.

I thoroughly recommend this item

Ollie

[GregMember]

blue450 wrote:

Quote:

I spoke to KTMrats mate Gary, earlier and he suggested the C-tek 800m/a charger also. He had none in stock and his price was $110. He did indicated that using this charger would prolong the life of the battery by up to 3 times. Probably a worth while investment considering the cost of a replacement battery is about $180.00 – $190.00 for the battery.

From my experience and the fact that I teach heavy duty electrics I would go for the above option, I dont want to type a lot tonight and everything on the net regarding charging batteries I think has been cut and pasted but lets say a quality charger helps service a battery and will extend its life, wheres a cheap one will charge it but not extend its life

You get what you pay for in my opinion

TB

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

blue450 wrote:

Quote:

I spoke to KTMrats mate Gary, earlier and he suggested the C-tek 800m/a charger also. He had none in stock and his price was $110. He did indicated that using this charger would prolong the life of the battery by up to 3 times. Probably a worth while investment considering the cost of a replacement battery is about $180.00 – $190.00 for the battery.

From my experience and the fact that I teach heavy duty electrics I would go for the above option, I dont want to type a lot tonight and everything on the net regarding charging batteries I think has been cut and pasted but lets say a quality charger helps service a battery and will extend its life, wheres a cheap one will charge it but not extend its life

You get what you pay for in my opinion

TB

I got a new generation AGM battery and battery fighter charger delivered for about $110 all up I havnt got the WR now but the guy who purchased it is still in contact with me and he has not had any problems.Daves mates charger probably is top shelf but I think the battery fighter is still a good option,my point being do not use a car battery charger,and make sure that the charger you use has the float option,you should get 3-4 years from your battery no problems at all.

Ollie IMHO

[GregMember]

Quick buy the one Ollie recommends before he stalks you :laugh:

TB

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Quick buy the one Ollie recommends before he stalks you :laugh:

TB

:dry:

just relaying my experiences to my fellow OB’s I dont really care what you get, whatever you think is a good thing.
I dont have a bike with Leccy start now:kiss:

Ollie

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

Quote:

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Quick buy the one Ollie recommends before he stalks you :laugh:

TB

:dry:

just relaying my experiences to my fellow OB’s I dont really care what you get, whatever you think is a good thing.
I dont have a bike with Leccy start now:kiss:

Ollie

Yeah I know Ollie I feel the love , in the first place I didnt say anything was wrong with the one you suggested did I, but noted my text was quoted and I couldnt understand why and still dont and dont care

A dirt bike with a leccy leg is wrong anyway :laugh:

TB

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