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Correct me if I’m wrong but I thought there was something different about the drive chain on a CRF to a WR???? Would this mean the sprocket was different??? Sorry cannot help on the wheel actually fitting.
:unsure: One of my friends bought some spare wheels from a wrecker. He said it was the best thing ever for getting good use out of his tires. For races he would run new ones and when only practicing and trailriding he would run the half worn out race ones and take it out of their hide. He had to replace a few spokes and the wheel bearings and seals on the wrecked rims but after a while he almost forgot which ones were the originals. At least that story might help you convince somebody to buy your spare CRF rims if nothing else.micknmeld wrote:Bollocks had a little rest at my feet
I have never seen that before!!!! His helmet cam is usually lost in the bush somewhere!! :laugh:
Great report guys.Have fun guys. I’m working in Dalby again so wont be there. Is there any slightly west OBT’s around this area will have to see if we can meet up for a ride in my spare time….. Yeah right.
That’s a good idea with the Juniors track. At Moree they would send the kids out on a cut off section of the normal track. The little ones don’t seem to push themselves that hard and can ride for a fair while, so that would be great. Looks like they had fun Ian.
The wires are not as well hidden as the original but that’s the only downfall. Use heaps of heat shrink tube to protect it.
The smaller aftermarket indicators are bolted on to the guard through a hole I drilled. The left one has lost its cover but that’s all that has gone wrong. The main problem with fitting after market indicators is that the wires are always too short. Save your broken original indicators for parts. I cut the wires and soldered them onto the new ones so the connections were the same.
The guard is at least half the weight and I have not had to tighten the bolts once since fitting it before the Coffs ride. I put some core flute behind the number plate to add strength and its nice and light.
The spacer was very tight and I was not aware how much room there was once you pushed it to one side just like you ALL told me. Pep and Boon wasted no time jamming the whole lot to one side and punching the bearing out.
I will get the bearings and seals and the next available opportunity. Will compare the sizes to the ones posted up in the bearing size thread. I think I might write the bearing and seal sizes on the inside covers of the workshop manual for easy reference next time. The bike has about 80 hours on it is that an early failure on about normal ??? Thanks again guys.Thanks guys . The punch I’m using could probably do with a touch up to get a better edge on it. It just keeps slipping off as the spacer is so tight and there is hardly any gap there to sit the punch on. Would never have thought about the welding idea, I suppose you don’t need it any more so who cares if you damage it getting it out. Will try those tips I just have not welded in my garage yet and it only has a 10 amp point on the wall. Oh that’s right somebody ground the 15 amp plug on the welder so it can go into a 10 amp socket :laugh: At least I did not do it.
I hope that photo was not taken last week end when you took my neighbor Matt from bikes and bits on the hills of gold? I had him fooled into thinking I was half normal. But you guys have gone and carried on as usual and now he will know I am a nuter because I ride with you idiots.
