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Are you planning on making the Super Commuter an ADV bike Eags. Sort of a Krusty type of arrangement.
Trailboss wrote:
Quote:micknmeld wrote:Quote:
Hey Mick, if you look close you will notice your bike has a flat rear tyre
You will also notice the GTS guards in the back ground all the petrol heads chase. One mans trash another mans treasure. Definitely would have been a happy hunting ground for Bolls farmers shed post. But Mick and Kram already got the jewel in the crown in the YZ250.
I would dare anybody to go out and take them. But I would insist you take a camera so you could capture the event ala Blair witch style of Richard chasing you through the bush at night :laugh: I would even find out his no. so I could pre-warn him to ensure I got the funny video to post on U tube! Once again the best ride report I have ever read, your pain paid off with out loud laughing. Great report mick was a very entertaining read. You could work for the local rag with journalistic skills like that. :laugh: Funny that Richard left the WR where it died in the scrub. Glad to see you didn’t get stung around your neck. Fantastic Post.
sb_250y wrote:
Quote:Trailboss wrote:Quote:I was told Woodys Motorcycles at Wyong are doing WMW500 that are a registered CR500, new apparently but over 20k.Chicken got a tour out the back of Wooody’s he knows all about it
TB
This is the thread from another forum….
http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69894
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Just checked out the dirtbike world link after all this time.thanks SB250.
Seems you can get a CRF 450x and put a CR500 engine in it. You still need to get it to pass noise restrictions but they ony do this to get it to pass the test then return it to LOUD You just need the 500engine or a CR500 to wreck. Seems If I read correctly you can change the engine in any bike as long as you don’t increase the capacity by 160cc. I thought you would need an engineering cert?? The crf engined bike seems like a better bike than the CRF500e as it turns better. Doubt it would hold its value like a 500e but it certainly looks the goods.badbowie wrote:
Quote:As most have said decent quality is the way to go.I know you only asked about sockets sets but with a couple more items you can get most jobs done…
This is my opinion only and others may differ. For working on bikes you can get away with a 1/4inch drive socket set most modern bikes are metric most sets have imperial and metric but you will find your imperial ones don’t get used much. I find sockets that have the six flats ie and internal hex are the best for using on butter soft bike bolts. This style drives of the flats of the bolt head and not the corners therefor less chance of rounding bolt heads. I also like the socket sets that have deep sockets included. 1/4 inch drive usually goes up to a 13mm socket. If you need a bigger socket you will have to go up to a 3/8 drive. If its only a couple of bigger sizes you need you could use a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor and just buy those sockets you need. In my opinion 1/2 drive is to big in most cases for working on bikes.
Yes that is exactly what I have found Scott. I mostly use 1/4 inch on the bike as I find that you develop far too much torque with the 3/8 set.Those aluminum housings are so easy to strip. I even place the ratchet in my palm so the socket or extension comes out between the index and middle finger. I don’t have bolts come undone and I rarely use locktite. Although I have a 14 mm socket for the 1/4 set (wasn’t in the repco kit)I don’t like to use it as it feels like you will stuff the ratchet. I had to use a lot of 3/8 stuff when I reassembled the wr engine because I could only find a 3/8 torque wrench. This was a bitch in one case as one of the back bolts on the cam cap could not be done up with the torque wrench as it hit the frame
