[TrentMember]

So with the rekluse you’re saying when you roll down a hill the clutch is engaged unless you blip it? It should be the other way around.

[TrentMember]

Actually here’s a page that explains it

http://www.rekluse.com/zstart.shtml#how

Quote:

How does it work?

The z-Start Clutch is a centrifugal clutch that uses ball bearings to engage the clutch. The clutch provides a pressure plate with ball ramps. At idle the balls are at the bottom of the ramps and the pressure plate is disengaged. As the rider increases RPM, the balls move out the ramps, push on the Rekluse top plate and force the pressure plate into the clutch pack engaging the clutch. As RPM’s build, the balls continue to move out fully engaging the clutch. When engine RPM’s are reduced the balls drop back down the ramps and the clutch disengages. The take-off is smooth–as if you had perfectly feathered the clutch every time. The disengagement is quick eliminating any stalls.

At what RPM does the z-Start Clutch engage?
The z-Start is fully adjustable so the rider can set the RPM engagement point. Springs are used to provide back pressure to the clutch and disengage it at idle. It takes a certain amount of force to overcome the spring and engage the clutch. By changing springs and spring compression rates, the rider can easily set the RPM engagement point.

For example, a light spring can be easily overcome at a low RPM so the balls generate enough force to compress the spring and engage the clutch. This provides a hard engagement at a low RPM which is ideal for enduro riding. A heavy spring requires more force to compress so it takes higher RPM to compress the spring and engage the clutch. This provides a soft engagement with some clutch slip which is ideal for track riding, allowing riders to brake slide into corners and accelerate out of them faster with better traction control.

Does the z-Start require me to modify my existing clutch parts?
No. The z-Start Clutch simply replaces your stock pressure plate. No need to take apart the right side of your engine to get the whole clutch out. No need to send your parts away for permanent modification or to modify your existing clutch parts. With the Rekluse z-Start Clutch, you can always return any bike to a stock configuration.

Can the clutch lever still be used?
The z-Start Clutch is provided in a fully automatic mode. The z-Start Clutch on cable clutch bikes can be operated in a semi-automatic mode by adding the Rekluse Perch Adjuster. With the Rekluse Perch Adjuster, the clutch lever can be retained to override the auto-clutch just like the stock clutch lever does.

Hydraulic clutch bikes, like a KTM, do not need to add a Rekluse Perch Adjuster and can be configured in either fully automatic or semi-automatic mode.

What is the Rekluse Perch Adjuster?
The Rekluse Perch Adjuster is a device which mounts inline with the clutch cable and mounts into the stock clutch perch. The Rekluse Perch Adjuster provides two main benefits. Installing the Rekluse Perch Adjuster allows the rider to retain the clutch lever and provides the ability to override the z-Start Clutch. Additionally, the Rekluse Perch Adjuster allows the rider to adjust the engagement point of the z-Start Clutch. Two spring options are provided to allow for different engagement points. The Rekluse Perch Adjuster is also threaded to allow additional spring compression and therefore further engagement adjustment.

How difficult is the z-Start Clutch to install?
Riders who regularly perform maintenance on their clutch components can easily install a z-Start Clutch. Most people will spend 1 to 2 hours to read through the manual completely and carefully install the z-Start. After the first installation, subsequent installations after can be completed in 30 minutes to an hour.

Does the z-Start Clutch require me to modify my existing clutch parts?
No. The z-Start Clutch simply replaces your stock pressure plate. No need to take apart the right side of your engine to get the whole clutch out. No need to send your parts away for permanent modification or to modify your existing clutch parts. Rekluse always provides the ability to return any bike to a stock configuration.

Will the z-Start Clutch wear my clutch plates faster?
That depends on how you use or abuse the z-Start Clutch. With the z-Start Clutch, you will find that you are able to ride smoothly in one or even two gears higher than you normally ride. However, riding uphill, in 4th gear at 10mph for extended period of times will cause significant clutch slipping, accelerate clutch plate wear and possibly damage your engine. When riding with any automatic clutch, it is important to select the right gear for the situation. In general, it is safe to ride one gear higher than the riding conditions dictate for short periods of time. That being said, when used properly the z-Start Clutch should allow for clutch plate life equal to or better than a stock clutch.

What kind of maintenance does the z-Start Clutch require?
The z-Start Clutch is designed to work with a specific ‘installed gap”. The installed gap is the distance between the pressure plate and clutch pack when the bike is off. The installed gap is based on the distance that the balls rise in the ball ramps as the pressure plate is engaged. If the installed gap is too small, the pressure plate is too close and will cause the bike to drag at idle. If the installed gap is too large, the pressure plate cannot fully clamp the clutch pack and the clutch will slip excessively.

In order for proper operation and to maintain the life of the clutch pack, the installed gap must be kept in the prescribed range. Initially, the installed gap must be checked after breaking in the z-Start Clutch for twenty minutes. As clutch wear occurs, the installed gap needs to be checked at regular intervals. Rekluse ends riders check the installed gap after every 25 hours of riding.

How much weight does the z-Start Clutch add to my bike?
Installing the z-Start Clutch adds less than 6 ounces of rotating mass in the clutch. Keep in mind that the clutch spins at approximately 1/3 engine speed so flywheel effect of the z-Start is minimal.

[TrentMember]

The rekluse is effectively automatic and only engages when the revs are high enough to create sufficient centrifugal force so when the bike is off and revs are zero it isn’t engaged.

[TrentMember]

Hey I didn’t make you put that $50 in my undies and I have to pay for my fuel somehow!

[TrentMember]

moto wrote:

Quote:

Ask some guys for a swapsy and see what you like….it was said by someone else here but really is the best advice so I felt worth the reiteration. Riding should be fun, only you can make it that way……

Moto you’ve obviously misread the thread you half wit we’re talking about bikes in here, it’s got nothing to do with that stuff. See what happens when you have more than one window open at once!

We need to keep this thread going till I knock off!

[TrentMember]

Good call on the KLX.

[TrentMember]

c-e-l wrote:

Quote:

Austblue – Greg only knows what I have told him.. I suppose I have been misinformed on the schedule of the newer bikes.. I must admit I have been hanging around XR bigots for about 3 or so years now.. In the end I just want to have fun and not interested in being a pro.. I appreciate your passion and experience I need more of it.. experience that is..

I’ll beat charlie tuna to the hook on this one, I’ve only been riding for about 18months mate and I’m a pup or calf as it were in here :p

I’m glad you didn’t take my comments as a shot at your knowledge because it’s no slight on you that someone has convinced you that the new bikes are nightmares. In fact some of them are, but more importantly most aren’t and for every bad story you read about there’s 499 blokes too busy enjoying riding their “shitboxes” to post up and whinge about them.

[TrentMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Austblue wrote:

Quote:

Trailboss wrote:

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Nice work Tony, I have been to the dark side and come back Remember last week we worked out you are but a boy (lucky bastard :laugh: )

TB

Better than being a butt boy that likes the “dark side” 😆 :laugh: :woohoo:

So c-e-l, what do you think? If a WR or the likes was reasonable to maintain would you prefer to ride one or would you prefer the ol’ faithful type that will “get the job done”.

blue, have you ever explained why you’re not riding a TM?

Tony you are as slow here as you are on that over rated bike over priced bike of yours that you are a passenger on, (but sounds crisp) He had a WR you FOOL and sold it cause he didnt like it FARK!!!!! He said that twice here :ohmy: :ohmy: :laugh: :laugh:

Thank god this thread happened or the day would still be dragging on :laugh:

TB

Slow? Maybe you should quit trying to verbal him and slow down and read this bit…

c-e-l wrote:

Quote:

Austblue – I owned a 2004 WR250F with an Athena 290 kit in it… It bucked like a bronco probably for more than one reason but I always thought it was due to its power to weight ratio and the suspension probably could have been tuned better I’m sure… I took that bike into Yamaha to have the valves checked.. They shimmed one and with new tires it cost me $1000.. Very large cucumber up the back side..

Cheers…
Chris………..

Or are you going to try and say that because a poorly tuned big bored 250 wasn’t right for him then a WR/CRF/EXC 400 or 450 etc. won’t be either? :blink:

Christ this silly big fish just keeps swallowing more line I hope the trace wire is up to it :silly:

[TrentMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Nice work Tony, I have been to the dark side and come back Remember last week we worked out you are but a boy (lucky bastard :laugh: )

TB

Better than being a butt boy that likes the “dark side” 😆 :laugh: :woohoo:

So c-e-l, what do you think? If a WR or the likes was reasonable to maintain would you prefer to ride one or would you prefer the ol’ faithful type that will “get the job done”.

blue, have you ever explained why you’re not riding a TM?

[TrentMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Yeah its all good Tony, I dish and I take always but didn’t dish you your bike etc as I thought it was a serious discussion :laugh: Chris said early on he is happy with his bike but it doesn’t have a button. In his intro he talked about his WR and how he didn’t like it and went back to his current bike. He wants the same with a button Champ :laugh: Chris rode the softer B route on the weekend as he is not a WR, CRF, TM, two stroke rider.
I really think this is all messed up because of the written word and unread posts here and other threads by people

Now leave my Jersey out of it or I will cry :S and start on about your eyebrows And Moto’s your God, there is a statement :whistle:

TB

Keep your chin up big fella I didn’t have a go at your bike at all, saying that the XR/DRZ are a bit more pedestrian follows the same reasoning as this line:

Quote:

Chris rode the softer B route on the weekend as he is not a WR, CRF, TM, two stroke rider.

Hence why I maintain I didn’t make this personal nor take it less than serious.

I was happy with my 250 too but I’m happier on my 300 and surely you can see that a bore kit on a 250 combined with a balaclava wearing mechanic are no reason to rule out a newer WR450 type bike. Bore kits are for racers that are willing to forego maintenance for the sake of that little bit extra punch full stop. There’s no way anyone should be comparing a bore kitted 250f with what sounds like poorly tuned suspension to any standard bike let alone a 450 or 400.

c-e-l, Greg knows me well enough to know that I’m not passionate about any particular bike but about getting out there and having fun which is why I’m trying to make sure your past experience and misinformation don’t mislead you towards missing out on considering something that may or may not lead to you having more fun.

From the sounds of it he knows you alot better than I do too but you have to admit if you breath like an asmathic when you read his posts he does have that “come to the dark side luke” way about him

[TrentMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Sorry Trent I maybe should have explained better. There are manufactures maintance requirements that are unrealistic as we all know. Take the two stroke engine piston and ring requirements, everyone knows that they are unrealistic in the real world. BMW services, valves shimming etc. Husky service requirements etc.

Maintance includes say adjusting the valves some engines as you know use bucket and shim adjustment which is far more maintance intensive to adjust the say screw and nut. Some engines require the valves to be checked more often then others as you know. Oil change interval etc all add up to mainatnce schedules and time and effort you would agree.

Have you read the maintance schedule for a high performance two stroke Trent? My KTM 250 smoker I rode and raced said to change the rings every 8hrs and piston every 16hrs

Why attack my jersey or me or my bike what was that going to prove? I never said boo about an XR or Baja or the likes or any brand longevity did I? You made it personal

I know plenty of people faster then you and I that are faster on a DR Trent be it singles or twins mate.

Moto your bit doesnt surprise me or add anything you also made it personal for what reason I don’t know.

Knowing Chris as I do I offered what I thought, from expernice and working on bikes and engines for a few years. Same as I answered your slipper clutch question Trent

TB

My post was no more personal than yours TB and I’d consider neither to be personal at all. How you take it is your choice and doing not mine but as per the smilies and jokes there’s some tongue in cheek you should be able to handle considering how you dish it

What do manufacturer’s maintenance schedules matter in this discussion when they are based on being over conservative and unrealistic in the real world as you correctly point out.

I don’t know c-e-l but from what he has posted in this thread I think he has a misinformed view about modern bikes that should be corrected. As per my original post I wasn’t trying to compare the two styles of bikes except that I believe it is a fact that 99% of punters are going to be faster and have more fun trying to go fast on a race type setup bike than a bike that is made to operate well within its safe limits to increase longetivity.

Yes WR/CRF/EXC/etc are more maintenance than an XR or DRZ. Derr. But Hell no it shouldn’t cost you $800 odd for a valve re-shim and no a stock 450 isn’t going to be as hard to maintain as a 250f with a big bore kit so if that’s what c-e-l is basing his view on he’s potentially missing out.

Of course there’s blokes that can ride a DR quicker than us. There’s blokes that can ride 125 2ts quicker than us and even downhill mountain bikes what does that matter? Don’t have this bloke on thinking he’ll be quicker on an XR through single than on say a CRF because it’s flat out bs. P-dub used to tractor along quicker than me on his xr400 but when he jumped on his CRF250x he was quicker again and his smile was twice as wide. Chuck Grabbo or others on an DRZ and they’ll probably still top ten it but there’s a reason they don’t choose to ride one and that’s the point here.

c-e-l, ignore all the bs mate. I’m not saying a DRZ isn’t a great bike because they are for what they do but if you want to ride at the front of the pack you’re going to do it a lot easier on a WR or similar unless you’re already a gun rider in which case you’d know which bike suited you. Don’t let your past experience influence you, I had a lemon and there’s no way I would base 4t bikes on that because it wasn’t because it was a 4t that it had problems and I’d go another one without a worry if I wanted a change.

[TrentMember]

moto wrote:

Quote:

:laugh:

I’m surprised you bothered to reply Trent, I thought you would have known the futility of the situation by now?

Let’s all just tell him to keep the XR and be done with it, then we go about our way misinforming other people until the Oracle bestows his supreme knowledge again :laugh:

Shhhh! Be vewy quiet… I’m hunting wabbits! [/elmerfudd] :woohoo:

[TrentMember]

Yep fair enough. Obviously you’re less likely to get wheel hop on dirt with compression locks but I know that car drifters use it and thought maybe SM would too.

Thanks.

[TrentMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Tony I am still shaking my head from the above mate :laugh: The maintance requirements and the life expectancy alone are completely different and to different to even try and type here. I also think that’s why your 4 stroke was like it was probably from the previous owner if you didn’t own it from new.

If you think your two stroke is maintance free just remember its new at the moment mate its time will come, if you maintained it as recommended well that would be a whole different story

As for the pedestrian comment :laugh: well that is neither here nor there really but isn’t surprising: P

TB

Not quite the bite I was looking for but you’ve taken the hook at least so it worked

Read my post after a coffee and you’ll notice I don’t compare the maintenance between any bikes and nor did i say my bike was maintenance free. Going by the OP’s last post he has been misinformed so why not put it out there and let him make in informed decision rather than one based on what some polka dot wearing tractor driver told him at the pub? :laugh:

If you’re going to say everyone should buy an xr because of their longetivity then I’m not going to waste my time, sorry. If the OP said hey I ride fire trails and like to dabble in fast single I’d say sure go for a DRZ but if he’s looking to be a fast rider in all terrain then look to what the racers are riding. Heck even Baja isn’t dominated by XRs anymore.

To spell it out very clearly, I’m asking what does the OP consider high maint because although it may be higher on a WR than an XR it still doesn’t take much to spend an hour (being generous with time there) in the shed changing the oil and filter after every 3 rides or so and checking valves takes 10 minutes unless you’re silly enough to through dirt and nuts in the open case.

My TM may be new with only around 1000kms but you can’t stand and argue that a 2t is more maintenance than a 4t just like I wouldn’t stand and say that my TM would last as long as an XR but then who’d compare V8 supercars maint schedules to an SS commodore’s.

[TrentMember]

That’s why I ask, don’t take peoples hearsay when it comes to what is required. You may want to check your valves after say 10 rides but they shouldn’t need adjusting unless you’ve bought a CRF or not putting your air filter on correctly. Moto is our god and he didn’t check the valves on his KTM for thousands (was it 4500kms???) of k’s and they were well in spec. Oil and filter changes area a piece of piss. Air filter maintenance is or at least should be the same on any bike, if its dusty then change every ride at least. If you want to reduce your air filter maintenance then maybe by filter skins.

WR250R is different to a 250f but I’m not going to put the hard sell on them. But are you talking about the motor or suspension when you say bucking bronco? I had a KTM 250 4t and the last thing I’d describe it as would be a bucking bronco. My 300 is a bit of a brumby but that’s why I love it

[Author]

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