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Yeah they’re good guys over there I’ve ridden with some of them before and posted this over there.
Ok guys I’ve sent you my phone number just give me a call if you want help with directions. I’ll probably be getting there early to run my bike in and make sure its all good before we set out.
Cheers.
I changed it because it was stretched. The cam gears were lined up correctly on the chain but were meeting below horizontal so the timing would’ve been out plus it was creeping up on the cam gear and I was of the opinion that $150 now would see me comfortable with it for another 5000k at least and I don’t have to worry if the chain is going to come off.
I will be moving it on around the end of the year if i can work out what to replace it with. I think the 300 is too much bike for me still but who knows.
Sheeez! all back together fine but now its not cold starting well! I’ll check the valves again tomorrow when I get back from wollongong but they should be fine. I can’t understand it because it cold started fine before I changed the chain
2007 model built in aug 06 with about 4300kms – I bought it with 2600 and it was a mess then but I didn’t know any better. I know they have a bit of a rep but I blame my problems with it on the previous owner not the bike.
Thanks for the help everyone and I have to give a rap to KTM newcastle too I ask them almost as many questions as I do you blokes and they’re always willing to give advice even though it does them out of work.
Either mine or my brother’s bike will probably be up for sale soon – I’ve decided I’m keeping mine for a little longer but he’s not riding his so we’ll pick one and sell it. Either bike should be a good buy since mine’s almost new now and his has always been strong as an ox. For a 250 4t that is
Got the hard bits done last night – actually I should say the unknown bits because it wasn’t hard just a tad time consuming and that was partly because I don’t have a 21mm spanner so I have to remove 3 of the engine mounts and tilt the engine back to get a socket onto the cam chain tensioner. Here’s a run-down in case anyone needs it later.
Drained the fluids – pulled the water pump off – lifted the valve cover – locked it into tdc – mopped up all the extra oil that came out of that hole! – removed lower engine mounts and loosened top mount and tilted motor back to get socket onto the chain tensioner bolt and remove it – remove the upper cam bridge and cams – remove rear brake m/c and lever to make room for cover coming off- remove 12 off inside clutch cover bolts and take cover off – stare in awe and all the bits you’ve never seen before! – Gasket was cactus so I had to peel it all off and I gave the cover a bit of a clean up to make sure it was all gone – it was quickly suggested that I mightn’t need a new gasket but this was definitely not the case!
Meow I had to work out how the chain came off and I figured that maybe just the timing gear twin wheel would come out but since it was in a tight position and the chain was still on it couldn’t so I bit the bullet and slipped the timing chain idler shaft out nice and easy then removed the chain guide for more room and the twin wheel then just lifted out.
So that had it removed and it was all easy so far though it required a leap of faith – next step was to get the new one on. I wouldn’t say it was difficult but by yourself it is tricky to get the twin wheel back onto the slack chain. I used some pretty pink ribbon to suspend the chain from the frame and with a bit of fiddling I got the twin wheel on in the right position. There are marks on two teeth on the primary gear and the twin wheel has a mark on one tooth that has to sit in between them – I assume this is another check so you know you’re at TDC since the gears are symmetrical so I wouldn’t expect putting it in a different slot would affect its operation. With the twin wheel in place you lift a stop disk and slide the shaft back into position and ensure the woodruff key is lined up so it goes in easy.
That’s where I’m up to now.
Now I just replace the rear chain guide and loctite that back into place reinstall the cams / bridges and loop the chain on the gears as you install them and make certain that the marks are at 9 and 3 o’clock being valves closed. With that done install the new clutch gasket and replace the cover then reinstall the water pump. Now install the chain tensioner and release the lock. If you don’t know how to do this be sure to ask because it is crucial and the process must be followed correctly! I think I’ll probably turn the motor by hand and make certain that the chain is seated then replace the valve cover and fluids before starting her up and smiling. This should only take about an hour tonight including taking the time to torque all bolts to the specs and loctiting where necessary.
There was more in it than I would’ve expected but it was good garage time I reckon.
champo35 wrote:
Quote:LC4skin wrote:Quote:good idea champoi know where he can get a ktm 250 as well. only just around the corner from his work too. i believe the owner may even pay him to take it away
nah the love hate relationship is in love mode again ….. for now!
If my bike so much as coughs between now and then I might sneak it out!
Congrats mate!
Are you riding with us sunday? I’ll be posting up a thread tonight for a ride in the watties.
G’day mate welcome aboard! Probably a good thing I didn’t get to ride with you this weekend or I might’ve bought that 390 on monday! I’ll be riding somewhere local again next saturday too so maybe we’ll catch up then if you like.
BTW why didn’t you use the same handle as you do on DBW
micknmeld wrote:
Quote:Hey Austblue he doesn’t ride a Husaberg does he??Yeah new 390.
Spoke with the ktm guys quickly then and it sounds like its an endless chain so it’ll mean pulling the clutch cover off and looping the chain from the timing shaft.
Quick look so far: drop coolant and oil. Remove inside clutch cover. Drop chain down from valve gallery and loop onto cam gears. slide chain onto timing valve twin wheel. Reassemble.
I have a feeling I need to replace the clutch cover gasket but they’ve told me that it’s not required so I’ll check that. Looking at it now it would’ve been a lot easier to remove the water pump seal by pushing it out from the inside!
G’day mick, I sent a bloke your way a couple of days ago, said he was keen to ride wauchope and I told him he’d have to ask you first
Haven’t met him myself but he seems like a good bloke going by his handle – “sexualninja”! I was chatting with him about his new bike and would’ve liked to come up there this weekend for a ride but I’m in wollongong saturday so I’ll be riding watagans sunday.
Take care mate
I’ve had some good teachers! I figure if I got the sack for spending too much time working on my bike I’d have a decent shot at getting a job turning wrenches
I didn’t buy my bike to learn how to work on it but I do admit I usually enjoy it. I only hope at some stage in the near future I can retire my mechanic skills and just ride knowing I have them should I need to call on them! To be fair on my bike though I have to point out that I did have a fair few posts about fixing my brother’s bike so mine has generally been ok.
Work I’ve done:
water pump seal (failed and what a nightmare getting it off!)
new piston and rings (maintenance)
bled brakes and new pads (maint + bike had empty m/c from prev owner)
valve checks (preventitive maintenance)
New sprockets and chain (stripped front and then changed others as maintenance)
Pivot pegs and KTM handlebar damping mounts.
New rear wheel bearings (needed help getting spacers out as I didn’t have a drift)Work I’ve had done:
oil drain bolt (inherited from prev owner)
spark lead (failed)
new cylinder (inherited from prev owner)
new clutch m/c (I broke it)
new battery (strange one that too because it didn’t have the stock battery carrier in it so I just went with the smaller battery.
forks revalved and tunedNow the cam chain and I need to do the fork seals but was advised here to have someone do that i think
Yeah I got distracted picking it up yesterday because it looked like they were closing up so I’ll probably just take the bike back down to them and pay for them to do it while I wait.
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